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Author: Subject: Header tank vs rad cap
bigpig

posted on 21/12/09 at 07:54 PM Reply With Quote
Header tank vs rad cap

I've currently got a header tank (clio one) and a GBS cortina rad with cap. I also have a MK2 escort rad with the cap blanked off.

Now given some comments on other posts about not having two pressure caps (due to the rad being able to draw in air) my thinking is, which one is better to keep.

I'm running a 2.0 pinto with the normal routing of the pipes. I've got a thermostat fitted (originally the engine just had the housing for this). I've also got a thermostat housing with the bleed take off at least one of the engines I had, had a ford branded blanking cap.

Looking at the thermostat its stamped with 88 which I assume is the switching temperature.

Now the question is should I go for either
a)
Blank the thermostat off
use the cortina rad with pressure cap
drop the header tank
route the pump output to the carb side of the head

b)
keep the thermostat bleed to the top of the header tank
keep the tee between the pump o/p the carb side of the head and the bottom of the header tank
put the non pressure cap rad back on.

c) does it really matter either way and just say stuff it.

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marcjagman

posted on 21/12/09 at 08:29 PM Reply With Quote
Header tank every time, no air locks......usually
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blakep82

posted on 21/12/09 at 09:06 PM Reply With Quote
hmm, should be header tank really. though i'm still not convinced why. if pressure caps in the radiator were good enough for so many years, why are they no good for us? lol
i've got too many outlets in my engine, so a header tank gives a good way to put all these outlets somewhere





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tegwin

posted on 21/12/09 at 09:27 PM Reply With Quote
Pressure tank every time...

It allows you to visually see that the system is full and that the stat bypass is working properly....

Rad caps are evil voodoo and annoy me endlessly!





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r1_pete

posted on 21/12/09 at 09:34 PM Reply With Quote
Definately go with a header tank, less maintenance, less risk of coolant loss, and as said visual level check.

I'm working out how to plumb one into my S1 E Type, before it gets much use.






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turbodisplay

posted on 21/12/09 at 09:44 PM Reply With Quote
I would say a header tank is a safer option as it is more tollerent to bad design.
Also engines require more cooling as they produce more power than the past.
Darren

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bigpig

posted on 21/12/09 at 10:23 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks

I've had another thought. It was mentioned before about caps that don't have a pressure release to replace the normal rad pressure caps. Anyone seen one for sale anywhere?

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gregs

posted on 22/12/09 at 06:49 AM Reply With Quote
I run a civic VTEC rad on my pinto with rad cap, and no problems to date, I guess the plus side is easier plumbing but agree with above comments wrt you can see what is going on with the expansion tank.
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cliftyhanger

posted on 22/12/09 at 08:27 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bigpig
Thanks

I've had another thought. It was mentioned before about caps that don't have a pressure release to replace the normal rad pressure caps. Anyone seen one for sale anywhere?

I assume you can just cut the release bit off a std cap. That will seal the rad, but you are left with the overflow pipe that can now go to the header tank. Thats exactly waht I will be doing to mine.
And don't get rid of the thermostat! maybe use an 82 if it gets a bit too warm, though thats unlikely this weather.
old cars often used 88 in the winter and 82 in the summer, swapped at services!

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UncleFista

posted on 22/12/09 at 11:00 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bigpig
Thanks

I've had another thought. It was mentioned before about caps that don't have a pressure release to replace the normal rad pressure caps. Anyone seen one for sale anywhere?


I bought mine from Car Builder Solutions £6 plus the VAT etc.

[Edited on 22/12/09 by UncleFista]





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Bluemoon

posted on 22/12/09 at 03:37 PM Reply With Quote
The main reason I'd stick with the header tank in the indy as it is difficult to get the radiator to be the highest point in the system (because of the nose cone). Thus you may not be able to bleed out the air, from the rad cap (depends on how high the engine is you use and how high you can get the rad, some cases might be able to get to work)..

You could mount a remote pressure cap high in the system (top hose), then have an unpressurized expansion bottle, but this is more trouble than having a header tank, and you can't see what's happening.

Like said above you can get blank cap to replace the pressure cap on the rad to allow you to go for a header-tank.. I was going to do this but went for a polo rad in the end so this was not required (no cap needed).

Dan

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bigpig

posted on 24/12/09 at 09:34 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks guys.

I think that valveless cap is what I have on the rad and the rad seems to have a side bleed off. The radiator I have is the top left one on this pic:

http://www.kitpartsdirect.com/page10.htm

Thinking about it again then, would the solution be to either a) don't worry b) block off the overflow?

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Bluemoon

posted on 6/1/10 at 03:13 PM Reply With Quote
The one in the photo has the bleed from the rad cap. If you have blank cap this will be closed off as well, which I think is what you want, i.e. you can now use a header tank..

Normaly the two way peasure cap would vent water out of the pipe as the pressure increases (i.e. water temp goes up). The pipe then goes to the bottom of an open bottle so on cooling water and not air is drawn back into the rad, hence this method would not need a header tank, but you can only do this if you can make the rad cap the highest point (as this is the only place to get the air out).

The only snag of using a blank cap is you might get a small pocket of air trapped in the top of the rad (but you can always manually bleed this when you fist fill the system by opening the cap slightly).

Dan

[Edited on 6/1/10 by Bluemoon]

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