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Author: Subject: slowing down the water pump -effects?
Miks15

posted on 27/2/10 at 12:14 PM Reply With Quote
slowing down the water pump -effects?

Hi guys,

Would it cause any problems if i slowed down the water pump on the car a tad? Basically i have two pulleys which fit on the crank (they were both on there but one drove the PAS pump).

I only need one pulley (will drive both water pump and alternator)

To get a good size trigger wheel it would be better if i used the PAS pulley, but this is smaller than the normal water pump pulley. (water pump pulley is about 150mm diameter whereas the smaller one is about 120mm)

Will this cause any problems in the future?

Cheers

Mikkel

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britishtrident

posted on 27/2/10 at 12:16 PM Reply With Quote
Might actually be beneficial for cooling at high RPM.





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sebastiaan

posted on 27/2/10 at 12:34 PM Reply With Quote
And might cause problems when stuck in traffic due to too low coolant flow. It all depends largely on rad, fan, shrouding etc. I'd just try it and see what happens.
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Miks15

posted on 27/2/10 at 12:56 PM Reply With Quote
well i thought that, but then i thought that i wont have a heater matrix , and the rads closer and smaller, so there wont be as much water to push around so it might counteract the effects of slowing it down?
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DRC INDY 7

posted on 27/2/10 at 01:11 PM Reply With Quote
it could cause cavitation





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SPYDER

posted on 27/2/10 at 01:15 PM Reply With Quote
Fairly standard practice on race cars. We did it on our racing TR's with no ill effects.
As long as you have a sufficiently efficient cooling fan there shouldn't be a problem.
You're not slowing it down that much anyway.
Geoff.

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Miks15

posted on 27/2/10 at 01:37 PM Reply With Quote
sweet, cheers guys, will definatly do that then, will get the trigger wheel ordered now im home,

and hopefully next time im back, ill have this thing running

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Nash

posted on 27/2/10 at 01:50 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by DRC INDY 7
it could cause cavitation


Why would it cause cavitation?

.....Neil





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rusty nuts

posted on 27/2/10 at 01:56 PM Reply With Quote
It's less likely to suffer cavitation!!
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Miks15

posted on 27/2/10 at 02:16 PM Reply With Quote
me possibly being stupid...

whats cavitation?

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Dusty

posted on 27/2/10 at 03:04 PM Reply With Quote
It's when you eat too many sweeties and your teeth go bad.
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MakeEverything

posted on 27/2/10 at 03:11 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Miks15
me possibly being stupid...

whats cavitation?


Where the impellerspins so fast it "Whips" the water rather than causing it to flow.Cavitation has the adverse affect and slows or even stops the flow. The governing factors of cavitation are pitch of impeller, and speed. Fast is not always best.





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Miks15

posted on 27/2/10 at 03:19 PM Reply With Quote
so by slowing it down it wont increase the chances then,

I think im just going to try with the new pulley and hope it works (cant see any reason it wont, especially not after whats been said)

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daviep

posted on 27/2/10 at 03:21 PM Reply With Quote
Cavitation is when the demand of the pump exceeds the available supply, the pump will draw a vacuum and gas will be drawn out of the liquid. At the discharge side of the pump the the bubbles of gas implode causing metal erosion.

That' my understanding anyway.

Davie

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britishtrident

posted on 27/2/10 at 03:57 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by daviep
Cavitation is when the demand of the pump exceeds the available supply, the pump will draw a vacuum and gas will be drawn out of the liquid. At the discharge side of the pump the the bubbles of gas implode causing metal erosion.

That' my understanding anyway.

Davie


Yep thats it, the effect on the impeller is a bit like sand-blasting





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
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MakeEverything

posted on 27/2/10 at 05:07 PM Reply With Quote
Fluid Dynamics;

"Discharge cavitation occurs when the pump discharge pressure is extremely high, normally occurring in a pump that is running at less than 10% of its best efficiency point. The high discharge pressure causes the majority of the fluid to circulate inside the pump instead of being allowed to flow out the discharge. As the liquid flows around the impeller, it must pass through the small clearance between the impeller and the pump housing at extremely high velocity. This velocity causes a vacuum to develop at the housing wall (similar to what occurs in a venturi), which turns the liquid into a vapor. A pump that has been operating under these conditions shows premature wear of the impeller vane tips and the pump housing. In addition, due to the high pressure conditions, premature failure of the pump's mechanical seal and bearings can be expected. Under extreme conditions, this can break the impeller shaft."





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dhutch

posted on 27/2/10 at 06:24 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by daviep
Cavitation is when the demand of the pump exceeds the available supply, the pump will draw a vacuum and gas will be drawn out of the liquid. At the discharge side of the pump the the bubbles of gas implode causing metal erosion.

That' my understanding anyway.

Davie

Sounds good to me.
- As said, its the drawing of the fluid into a gas by applying a vacuum.

Bad becuase they the pumps spining in
air/froth and becuase of the violence of the gas collapsing into liquid again.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cavitation


Daniel

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matt_gsxr

posted on 27/2/10 at 07:14 PM Reply With Quote
Just one thought.

According to the Graham Bell book on 4-stroke tuning. One of the things that stops localised boiling is the pressure of the water (we knew that). He claims that the water pressure from the water pump is the dominant source of pressure (in the block) I can't remember what pressures he claims. He does know his stuff, but his book is a bit v8 centric.

Slowing the pump would decrease the pressure and hence could lead to localised boiling (and hot spots).


I guess it must depend on the engine. Loads of people run bike engines with electric Davies Craig pumps, that are variable speed, so on those engines it can't matter.

Also the book is talking about engines that have been tuned to the last possible bhp, so this is probably not relevant.

Just a thought,

Matt

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britishtrident

posted on 27/2/10 at 08:16 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by matt_gsxr
Just one thought.

According to the Graham Bell book on 4-stroke tuning. One of the things that stops localised boiling is the pressure of the water (we knew that). He claims that the water pressure from the water pump is the dominant source of pressure (in the block) I can't remember what pressures he claims. He does know his stuff, but his book is a bit v8 centric.

Slowing the pump would decrease the pressure and hence could lead to localised boiling (and hot spots).


I guess it must depend on the engine. Loads of people run bike engines with electric Davies Craig pumps, that are variable speed, so on those engines it can't matter.

Also the book is talking about engines that have been tuned to the last possible bhp, so this is probably not relevant.

Just a thought,

Matt


I think that is perhaps looking at it the wrong way round what stops localised boiling in the engine is flow both in terms of mass flow and flow velocity. The effect of coolant mass flow is pretty obvious while flow velocity generates turbulence which encourages mixing in the boundary layers on the hot engine surfaces improving heat transfer.

The few psi pressure generated by the water pump is only in reponse to the radiators resistance to coolant flow.

Back in the 1960s and 70s through the early 1980s most car coolings systems only operated at around 7 to 9psi ( 0.5 bar) gauge, these days 21psi (1.5 bar ) gauge is more typical.

Getting back to cavitation; Cavitation isn't like plain localised boiling it is the flashing off of water molecules on the impeller surface into highly superheat steam, in effect a micro explosion.





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
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bimbleuk

posted on 28/2/10 at 05:45 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by matt_gsxrAccording to the Graham Bell book on 4-stroke tuning. One of the things that stops localised boiling is the pressure of the water (we knew that). He claims that the water pressure from the water pump is the dominant source of pressure (in the block) I can't remember what pressures he claims. He does know his stuff, but his book is a bit v8 centric.


Though I've read most of his books, on this matter I have to disagree from my observations.

The water pump does provide some mechanical pressurisation but I've run both aqeuos and non-aqeous coolant in my car with the same setup. The water/ethanol mix runs at about a bar as normal. The non-aqeous coolant makes probably 3 psi at most. Which meant I could take the pressure cap off at any time and not suffer a face full of scolding water.

The non-aqeous coolant should reduce both local pressurisation and cavitation due to a very high boiling point. I haven't run a reduced pump speed though with the non-aqeuous coolant myself yet.

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matt_gsxr

posted on 28/2/10 at 10:33 AM Reply With Quote
I was only quoting, and will quote further:

Four-Stroke Performance Tuning
A.G.Bell 3rd Edition

p.433-4

"
Water pump considerations

However, when water pump speed increases to the peak efficiency speed of 4-6krpm it is not the radiator cap that stops boiling but water pressure created by the water pump. Even many race engine tuners do not seem to understand that regardless of the radiator cap pressure a water pump spinning at maximum efficiency rpm will produce a pressure head of around 30-40psi in the engine block and head when water flow out of the head is limited by thermostat or restrictor plate. This pressure packs coolant around the top of the cylinders and around combustion chambers to carry away combustion heat and stop an insulating blanket of gas bubbles forming in these areas."

If you want to read the rest then buy the book!

He also goes on to say that he does under-drive the pumps sometimes, although this is all relative to the "maximum efficiency zone of 4-6krpm" I doubt you know that for your pump.


I like the book, I can't say his physics is up to scratch. For example in the introduction he says:
"Take the laws of gravity or the day/night cycle as the earth rotates around the sun."*
Which didn't inspire confidence. But he is good at citing evidence of doing things which I like.



Matt


*Obviously the earth rotates on its own axis causing the day night cycle. Rotation around the sun takes a year!

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britishtrident

posted on 28/2/10 at 12:24 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by matt_gsxr
I was only quoting, and will quote further:

Four-Stroke Performance Tuning
A.G.Bell 3rd Edition

p.433-4

"
Water pump considerations

However, when water pump speed increases to the peak efficiency speed of 4-6krpm it is not the radiator cap that stops boiling but water pressure created by the water pump. Even many race engine tuners do not seem to understand that regardless of the radiator cap pressure a water pump spinning at maximum efficiency rpm will produce a pressure head of around 30-40psi in the engine block and head when water flow out of the head is limited by thermostat or restrictor plate. This pressure packs coolant around the top of the cylinders and around combustion chambers to carry away combustion heat and stop an insulating blanket of gas bubbles forming in these areas."

If you want to read the rest then buy the book!

He also goes on to say that he does under-drive the pumps sometimes, although this is all relative to the "maximum efficiency zone of 4-6krpm" I doubt you know that for your pump.


I like the book, I can't say his physics is up to scratch. For example in the introduction he says:
"Take the laws of gravity or the day/night cycle as the earth rotates around the sun."*
Which didn't inspire confidence. But he is good at citing evidence of doing things which I like.



Matt


*Obviously the earth rotates on its own axis causing the day night cycle. Rotation around the sun takes a year!


Absolute Balderdash





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]

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Strontium Dog

posted on 28/2/10 at 12:37 PM Reply With Quote
Of course you could always bin the pump and use an electric item to feed via a fanimold into the core plug holes! Lots of advantages if you have the time and engineering skills!
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matt_gsxr

posted on 28/2/10 at 01:09 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident


Absolute Balderdash



Thanks ;-)

Matt

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britishtrident

posted on 28/2/10 at 01:17 PM Reply With Quote
40 psi from car water pump --- had me rolling about the floor.





[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]

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