Dave Bailey
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| posted on 27/2/10 at 08:07 PM |
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Zetec (ST 170) Cooling
Hi All...need some advice on the pumbing of my ST170 engine for the cooling system. I have run the engine and I am using all three connections to the
thermostat housing but the problem is that I am not getting water through the rad. I think the back pressure for the rad compared to the bypass and
the heater rad is greater so I plan to remove one of the bypass routes. The thermostat housing has two outlets on one side and one on the other. The
large one is the path when the stat is open and the others are one bypass and the other goes to the heater which in effect is also a bypass. I plan to
plug one of the smaller ones and only have the path through the heater rad then back to the pump until the stat opens... Question is which one should
I block up or are they the same?
thanks
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Ben_Copeland
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| posted on 27/2/10 at 09:22 PM |
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Are you sure the thermostat is working properly and the radiator is not full of crap?
Thats the 2 main things to check first
Ben
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paulf
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| posted on 27/2/10 at 10:36 PM |
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Wont that mean that your heater is on all the while?.My car has no heater and I blanked of the heater connection which is the one on the inlet side of
the housing.
Paul.
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Dave Bailey
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 10:29 AM |
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There will be water going through the Rad but the fan won't be on... which is pretty much how it is run on the standard focus install I
think.....
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coozer
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 10:50 AM |
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The single one on the back of the stat housing is the heater outlet, block that one.
Small outlet under the main (bigger) one is the warm up bypass, this needs to be run to the bottom hose close to the water pump. This allows water to
circulate round the engine when cold.
Top outlet goes to the top of the rad.
Plumb a header tank into the bottom hose but not combined with the bypass hose, it needs to be independant.
Bleed on top of stat housing goes to the top of the header, and a bleed from the rad if you have one.
My bypass hose is 22mm copper pipe and this setup works well for me, beleive me I've had lots of problems with water rails and improper plumbing
in the past.
Heres a crude pic....
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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scutter
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 11:29 AM |
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I've done the same on my Blacktop, try THIS link for a detailed explaination,
i'm hoping it'll work on the ST engine as i've one waiting to go in. 
ATB Dan.
The less I worked, the more i liked it.
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Dave Bailey
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 01:54 PM |
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Thanks guys....
Coozer any reason why the header tank has to go directly to the pump return and not tee into the bypass hose up near the scuttle which then routes to
the pump return?
My bypass will go via the heater matrix...any concerns
thanks
Dave B
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coozer
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 02:38 PM |
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I had the header tank plumbed into the bypass and when I revved the engine coolant surged into the tank. Plumbing the header away from the bypass on
the bottom hose stops any surging. When mine was plumbed into the bypass the tank filled up and overflowed, moving it down onto the bottom hose
stopped it. KrisMC had his plumbed up like that and ended up with hot coolant flooding into the footwell and burning his leg!
If you are running a heater use the single output at the back of the stat and plumb the return from the heater into the bypass hose. Thats the OEM
way. I have a bypass hose off a Mondy and thats what it looks like.
Hope thats clear??
Steve
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Dave Bailey
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 02:46 PM |
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Thanks...Coozer....
Gives me a real problem trying to get three hoses from the scuttle down to the front of the engine....
What ID is your bypass hose?
What ID is your header tank hose?
Dave B
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Dave Bailey
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 03:08 PM |
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Coozer.... just thinking about your connection of the bleed tube off the stat housing and top of the rad... My header tank has a pressure cap and the
connection of the top of the tank is an exhaust I think if the pressure in the tank is too high...... Have I got this right?
thanks
Dave Bailey
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coozer
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 03:14 PM |
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Heres my ST170 set up, as I said very much styled on the oem way in the Mondeo...
You can see my ali bottom hose here with two take offs, both 1" pipes. It passes behind the chassis rail,header tank inlet on right, bypass
inlet on left close to the water pump.
Header tank location with breather pipes...
Thermostat housing. I have a temp gauge plumbed into the heater outlet at the right, this would be the feed to your heater.
The small bottom hose on the left is the bypass, I used 22mm copper pipe cuase I had some... top hose (32mm ) goes straight to the top of the
rad...
Another angle of the bypass pipe and bottom hose...
The return from your heater would just need a T piece where the bypass is connected to the stat housing.
I mounted my header tank at the front because I also didn't want pipes running all the way to the front and saw no reason to have it mounted on
the scuttle.
[Edited on 28/2/10 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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coozer
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 03:19 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dave Bailey
Coozer.... just thinking about your connection of the bleed tube off the stat housing and top of the rad... My header tank has a pressure cap and the
connection of the top of the tank is an exhaust I think if the pressure in the tank is too high...... Have I got this right?
thanks
Dave Bailey
Zetec system isn't pressurized aka pinto.. the tank is a HEADER, not an expansion tank. It just helps get coolant into the system. I can happily
run mine with the cap off all the way up to temp. (steams a bit tho)
My tank just has a screw on cap. Bleeds are there just to let air out and keep the system full.
[Edited on 28/2/10 by coozer]
1972 V8 Jago
1980 Z750
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Dave Bailey
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| posted on 28/2/10 at 10:21 PM |
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Coozer thanks for all your effort.....Looks like a header tank change for me then.....
Although I could just get another inlet welded in and keep the pressure cap.....
Dave B
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