Miks15
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 12:23 PM |
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Getting engine started problems
In the process of getting my engine started. But it wont quite start. It turns over fine. Ive got a nice strong spark on all plugs. Checked after a
while and there all wet so petrol is definetly getting in.
So im a bit puzzled as to why it wont go. From what i believe the sensor must line up with the missing tooth 90 degrees before top dead center on
piston one. Therefore when pistion one is at TDC, the missing tooth is 90 degrees beyond the sensor?
How crucial is this, when i welded it on, i just did the mount quickly as i was going to do a proper one later on and it could be 1-2 degress out,
would this be enough to not allow it to start?
Ive gone from the original EFI to gsxr600 carbs. Could it be anything on these thats stopping it starting? Theres definatly fuel getting in to the
cylinder.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Mikkel
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t16turbotone
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 01:08 PM |
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You using megasquirt ecu?
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BenB
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 01:09 PM |
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Personally I'd put some fresh plugs in just in case the mixture is overly rich and making the plugs refuse to spark when under compression then
disconnect the fuel pump and squirt some easystart down the trumpets when turning over....
Being a few degrees out won't be enough to prevent running (though it might run badly) being massively out will cause problems...
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Miks15
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 01:09 PM |
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at the minute no squirt or jolt, just trying to get it running using the limp home mode on the edis
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 01:23 PM |
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VR sensor incorrectly wired
VR sensor not shielded
EDIS incorrectly wired to coil
HT leads incorrectly fitted
Dodgy coil pack
Dodgy EDIS
Dodgy sensor
Bad mixture
Bad spark plugs
OR
NOT USING THE CHOKE MECH TO COLD START (which is why mine wouldn't start!)
Craig
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Miks15
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 01:59 PM |
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Ive had the plugs out and laid them all on a bar which was grounded, all sparked very well. which indicates that the VR sensor is both working and
correctly wired and the coilpack is fine. (Plus we were using the coilpack of my bros focus so we know that works).
After turning it alot one time i got a loud bang out of the exhaust. Does this indicate anything?
I have tried using the choke aswell.
Plus im not really a big fan of using easy start, but might have to try it if not succeding with other things.
The one thing im not sure about is if the coilpack is wired correctly. by that i mean if the wires are in the right sides, but i tried swapping the HT
leads around so it fires the other pairs, but no success
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brianthemagical
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 02:32 PM |
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Sounds like timing is out.
Find some kind of TDC mark, either the origional one on the engine or make your own some where easy to see.
Then use an advanceable timing light to account for the edis advance and see what you see.
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Miks15
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 03:16 PM |
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ive used the original TDC positioning on the engine which gave me the position to mount the sensor.
What would i see with a timing light? How does it work? I know it flashes at a certain time but what good would that be?
Would it show me when cylinder one is actually firing in comparison to its TDC?
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prelude1980
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 03:35 PM |
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yeah the timing light connects to cylinder 1 and it'll flash in time with that and when pointed at the timing mark you can adjust the light to
show how many degrees it is firing at ( assuming it' an adjustable timing light)
Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary... that's what
gets you.
https://www.topcashback.co.uk/ref/dodd1980
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brianthemagical
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 03:35 PM |
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Yes, pretty much.
You know when the spark should be sparking, the timing light will flash with the sparks to then see if they match up with TDC as they should.
Beaten to it, darn.
[Edited on 13/4/10 by brianthemagical]
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 05:36 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Miks15
ive used the original TDC positioning on the engine which gave me the position to mount the sensor.
What would i see with a timing light? How does it work? I know it flashes at a certain time but what good would that be?
Would it show me when cylinder one is actually firing in comparison to its TDC?
Get someone else to do it!
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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Miks15
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 06:03 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
quote:
Originally posted by Miks15
ive used the original TDC positioning on the engine which gave me the position to mount the sensor.
What would i see with a timing light? How does it work? I know it flashes at a certain time but what good would that be?
Would it show me when cylinder one is actually firing in comparison to its TDC?
Get someone else to do it!
why exactly?
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Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 07:50 PM |
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Dont know much about the TDC marks on a BMW but is it possible to get it 180 deg out ie No 1 piston at top of exahust stroke not compression? - does
this apply if using EDDIS
Paul
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Miks15
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| posted on 13/4/10 at 09:28 PM |
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Theres no mark as such, u turn the crank and then put a pin through the block into flywheel that locks it in tdc for piston 1.
Even if it was on the exhaust it shouldnt matter because it runs wasted spark?
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MakeEverything
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 07:21 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Miks15
quote:
Originally posted by MakeEverything
quote:
Originally posted by Miks15
ive used the original TDC positioning on the engine which gave me the position to mount the sensor.
What would i see with a timing light? How does it work? I know it flashes at a certain time but what good would that be?
Would it show me when cylinder one is actually firing in comparison to its TDC?
Get someone else to do it!
why exactly?
A timing light is one of the simplest tools that you will use on your car, and without sounding rude, if you dont know what it does or how to use it,
you need someone to show you. If you cock your timing up grossly, then youll bend your valves, chip your pistons or even damage the guides.
The reason i bought my Dutton so cheap is because the guy that owned it didnt know what he was doing, and got the ignition timing in such a mess, he
couldnt get out of it.
Just some advice, and IMO.
Kindest Regards,
Richard.
...You can make it foolProof, but youll never make it Idiot Proof!...
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cd.thomson
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 07:31 AM |
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That is rude (tbh, imo, orly).
If its that easy then you or someone else should be able to answer the questions asked fairly simply rather than just telling someone (on the ultimate
car DIY website) to get someone else to do it... I assume the "someone else" had to ask questions to get started too.
The dutton you bought had its timing cocked up by a timing light issue or by the cams being dialed in wrong to begin with?
He's on about spark timing, not cam timing so unless he does something completely drastic I doubt hes going to bend valves - the fact that the
engine was locked into TDC on piston 1 when the crank sensor was setup suggests it can't be anything that terrible.
Craig
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Benzine
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 07:35 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by cd.thomson
I assume the "someone else" had to ask questions to get started too.
that ^
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Miks15
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| posted on 14/4/10 at 10:27 AM |
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cheers cd.thomson, exactly what i was about to say!
So mkae everything are you basically saying that if you dont know something exactly, then dont bother trying to learn and let someone who knows do it?
if its that simple then why cant i pick it up? Baring in mind im only 18 aswell are you saying that whats the point in getting young people learning
the trade? You might not have wanted to sound rude but you did!
I dont exaclty want to fall out with anyone on here because this site is just too great, so next time just think a bit more before you speak
please.
[Edited on 14/4/10 by Miks15]
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