neo2
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 posted on 26/5/10 at 05:59 PM |
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Anyone know much about accumsump systems
Hi guys ive just bought a bike engined car with an accusump system fitted its the manual type that you turn a lever 90deg to activate and when nessary
it does the biz...
I understand the operation as in if it detects oil pressure drop below whats stored in tank it injects oil into the oil gallery till the pressure is
restored, then tank refills and whole process starts again...
Now ive been also told to make sure i shut the valve off before i stop the engine as the same will happen ie, soon as i knock engine off oil pressure
goes to zero, then the accusump will inject oil till its empty into the sump, This will cause the 3lt in the engine and approx 3lts in accusump
cylinder to make 6lts in engine which will cause it to hydrualic on start up i assume yeah..
Now my question is this/senario
I'm out on track on a trackday, as you do and have a spin and stall engine by the time you regain composure the accumsump will of filled the
engine would it not, causing the hydrualicing of the engine...
IS THIS RIGHT or have i got the wrong end of the stick
Also does anyone know if manual ones can be updated to electronic soleniod type etc...
I prefer dry sumps these are alein to me like..
thanks Rob
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 26/5/10 at 06:05 PM |
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Yes, you are right, but they take 30-60 seconds to fully drain so you get a fair bit of time.
The system is identical except for the valve, so it's easy to upgrade from manual to electric. The electric system will still drain if you stall
the engine though, as it's actuated from ignition feed. The clever way would be to actuate only when the engine is running, but you'd
either need a clever circuit or a programmable ECU to do that.
[Edited on 26/5/10 by matt_claydon]
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neo2
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| posted on 26/5/10 at 07:15 PM |
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Right i think this is a daft system me like do you ?
What happens if you forget and then restart goosed engine in a one go and very easy yo do it reckon..
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mangogrooveworkshop
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| posted on 26/5/10 at 07:56 PM |
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Speak to ANDY BATES simples
From what I understand its the lack of pressure on startup that nacks the engine
[Edited on 26-5-10 by mangogrooveworkshop]
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 26/5/10 at 08:01 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by neo2
Right i think this is a daft system me like do you ?
I don't think the extra 1-1.5 litres of oil you've dumped into the engine from the accusump is going to cause a big problem at idle, even
if the crank is splashing into it a bit (the normal size unit is 4-pints, but you'll never get that much into it as you've got to have a
decent amount of air in the other side). The accusump will quickly recharge before you drive off and start thrashing the engine again. You're
certainly not going to 'hydraulic' the engine!
At least I hope that's the case as I've just bought one!
(£250-300 compared to thousands for a complete dry sump setup seems like good locost sense).
[Edited on 26/5/10 by matt_claydon]
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neo2
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| posted on 26/5/10 at 08:37 PM |
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Ive not actually had this happen guys im just a bit concerned in case it did thats all, i must admit it cant be that bad or they would'nt make
them would they....
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matt_gsxr
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| posted on 26/5/10 at 09:54 PM |
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The manual ones are simple, like you say.
They just try to push oil into the engine all the time. If the pressure in the engine is higher then the accusump is pumped up with oil, if the oil
pressure drops then the accusump pushes oil into the engine.
You could retrofit and EPC valve, which would control this electronically. THese are cheapest shipped from the USA, although not the quickest.
Thinking about undesirable discharge of the Accusump. In many cases the fuel pump is turned off once the engine isn't running, in which case
this would be an ideal feed for the EPC. While the engine primes the EPC would be opened, and the engine primed with oil, but not completely
discharged. It might just work!
Matt
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BenB
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| posted on 26/5/10 at 10:05 PM |
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Isn't the simplest thing to have connect the electronic solenoid to the ignition light via a relay (you could use the NC and NO contacts
accourding to whether the accusump wants some volts when the light is on or off).
Nice and simple and would protect if you stalled....
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 27/5/10 at 06:28 AM |
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you shouldn't be running so big an accusump on such a small engine so as to risk problems with hydraulic lock!
The 2l unit is for car engines with a ~5l oil capacity and there is a smaller unit for bike engines. you shouldn't have nay problem starting the
engine with the accusump fully discharged into the engine sump and the oil level a little high and of course as soon as its started the cylinder
charges under pressure and your oil level drops back to normal.
My Build Thread
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NigeEss
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| posted on 27/5/10 at 07:33 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BenB
Isn't the simplest thing to have connect the electronic solenoid to the ignition light
This would as you say resolve a stalling issue but as the ignition light requires a started engine you
will lose the initial pre-start prime function of the Accusump.
Easily resolved with a press to prime over ride button though. Or if you use a turnkey
start some diesel Land Rovers had a position halfway between ign and crank which
powered the glowplugs.
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
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matt_claydon
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| posted on 27/5/10 at 09:14 AM |
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I like the fuel pump idea - like most injection ECUs, mine runs the pump for ~3 seconds to prime at key on, but otherwise only runs the pump when the
engine is actually running - perfect 
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NigeEss
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| posted on 27/5/10 at 02:00 PM |
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Perfect.....if.....you have injection.
Time is an illusion. Lunchtime doubly so.................Douglas Adams.
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bimbleuk
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| posted on 27/5/10 at 02:16 PM |
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You might find some useful info from the link below.
Accusump info
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beaver34
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| posted on 27/5/10 at 03:53 PM |
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what size accusump should you have for a 1.6 car engine?
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alistairolsen
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| posted on 27/5/10 at 03:54 PM |
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http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi?search=action&category=2410
My Build Thread
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