jollygreengiant
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| posted on 24/7/10 at 08:58 AM |
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Hydraulic Clutch Info - Type 9 to Pinto Repost as I cant edit now.
Ok so now that the edit button has been removed from old posts I can no longer edit the old post to bring the front page info up to date, So lets copy
and paste.
Ok so I thought it might be nice if I posted the information that I have as it relates to my experience so far.
I have fitted a standard 2.0efi pinto, standard bell housing and standard type 9 (with electronic speedo sender). These have come straight out of a
'G' reg (09/1989) Ford Granada 2.0i Ghia Granada.
The release bearing carrier, as removed straight off of the gear box without gasket, measured 101.6mm.
The adapter (holds oil seal, retains front bearing and adapts to carry spacers and hydraulic slave cylinder) I bought from Burton is an APC6B.
To the front of this you mount a Hydraulic clutch cylinder, APC5, but this needs to be spaced so that it clears the clutch cover and allows room for
the rearwards progression of the fingers of the clutch cover as the clutch wears.
When I ordered all this I asked them for the appropriate spacers as I did not want to do any machining. So they sent me a 30mm. This was wrong as it
gave no free play and made the whole assembly too long by at least 14mm.
Then I bought two more spacers, 3.2mm & 12.7mm, giving a total of 15.9mm. This meant that the assmbly cleared the clutch plate but still did not
give me clearance on the cover.
I then removed the 12.7mm spacer, but, the 3.2mm spacer does NOT fit properly on the locating steps of the clutch slave. There was a gap of
approximately 3mm between the two. I got over this by using pairs of washers through which the bolts located.
So this mean that the height of the combined adapter mount and the hydraulic cylinder was 85.6mm. To this I have added a total of 3.2 + 1.5 + 1.5 =
6.2mm. (This would have been an APC7B [ 6.4mm ] on the Burtons web site )
This has given me approximately 5mm clearance (at this time ) between the clutch fingers ( almost new LUK clutch, only done about 1000miles ) and the
release bearing. This gap should be adequate to allow for the movement of the fingers as the clutch wears.
After getting the car on the road I found after about 6 months of driving that the clutch started to slip. So engine out and new clutch. I also
removed the spacer and washer that I had originally used. So now the slave sits directly on the adaptor. Engine back in and away we go again.
After about another six months I started to get a slipping glutch, again, This time I thought it was down to oil contamination from my modified sump,
however, I was wrong. On investigation I found that my clutch pedal was not returning far enough due to the saddle yolk fouling on the blade of the
pedal below the pin. I relieved some of he metal until I could lift the pedal and simply slot the pin in. This has worked and I now have a fully
opperational clutch. although at some time in the future I will make a spacer up to mount the clutch master cylinder on (about an inch/25mm thick) so
that it brings my clutch pedal back in line with my other pedals.
So to sum up (I have tested this system NOW ), IF you buy from Burtons, and IF you have a clutch bearing nose in you gearbox that measures about
101.6mm from end to end, then you will need :-
APC5. cylinder
APC6B. adapter
APC8. hose kit
HD4941. release bearing.
OH and some cap head bolts that they neglected to include in either kit OR pricing up of kit.
I hope this helps.
JGG
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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r1_pete
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| posted on 24/7/10 at 09:19 AM |
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It is vital with hydraulic brakes and clutches, that the master cylinder piston returns fully home when the pedal is released.
If it doesn't, the drilling into the resevoir remains closed.
In your case as the clutch wore and the fingers retracted further, the slave couldn't compress because the fluid could not escape to the
reservoir
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jollygreengiant
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| posted on 24/7/10 at 03:55 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by r1_pete
It is vital with hydraulic brakes and clutches, that the master cylinder piston returns fully home when the pedal is released.
If it doesn't, the drilling into the resevoir remains closed.
In your case as the clutch wore and the fingers retracted further, the slave couldn't compress because the fluid could not escape to the
reservoir
Yep thats what I kinda figured out, the moment that I found I could not easily remove the pin from the yoke and pedal. Slips in and out a treat now.
Up until that point I had thought the pedal was returning fully.
Beware of the Goldfish in the tulip mines. The ONLY defence against them is smoking peanut butter sandwiches.
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RichardK
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| posted on 24/7/10 at 05:20 PM |
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Nice post my friend, should help out those just starting that mod a great deal.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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