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Author: Subject: Megajolt
bill132hotrod

posted on 4/3/11 at 09:25 PM Reply With Quote
Megajolt

Hi guys.

Been off work for 8 mths now with injury to my back and everyone is getting there cars out for the new year, and mine is still in its winter blanket because i've not been able to use it (due to injury) so i had to sorn it.
Anyway seeing as ive got time on my hands and bordom is setting in i thought some retail theropy might help, I've invested in an upgrade for my 2.0 xe and bought a complete mappable negajolt system from triggerwheels and just wanted to know if there was anything to be aware of when fitting the kit and what peoples thoughts were on these systems.
I'm currently running a standard bore 2.0 xe engine with steel rods, race pistons, lightened & balanced, with a coscast head reprofiled cams solid lifters and verniers all breathing though a cold charged airbox and kawasaki 1100 ZZR carbs, with standard elctronic ignition system.
Could i expect to see a significent difference when set up and what should i be looking for ????
When i last drove the car i was experiencing juddering at low speed and pinking on acceleration tried adjusting timing but made no difference.
Thanks in advance for all your views.
Regards Bill.





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David Jenkins

posted on 4/3/11 at 09:33 PM Reply With Quote
The biggest advantage of Megajolt is that once it has been set correctly, it stays set. It also gives you the option to play with ignition advance maps based on rpm and engine load (either MAP or TPS).

The final advantage is that it should always give a big fat spark, which is useful.






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MikeRJ

posted on 4/3/11 at 11:38 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by bill132hotrod
d kawasaki 1100 ZZR carbs, with standard elctronic ignition system.


Have you done a distributor conversion on the engine then, or are you just using the original Motronic ECU with the fuel injection bits disconnected?

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snapper

posted on 5/3/11 at 04:41 AM Reply With Quote
If you tried setting the distributor and still get detonation then it one of two things (or both) incorrect ignition advance curve and or to much compression.
What compression are you running?
Does filling up with super help?
Have you tried adding octane booster to super?
If you have Detonation and are using a distributor the curve maybe to shallow, so the curve will either be correct at 1000 rpm or at 3500 rpm with varying degrees of wrong in other parts of the curve.
The Megajolt comes with a safe base map, there ar some maps available off the web but you really must set it up on a rolling road for best effect.
You will notice, easy starting, smooth idle, good response to throttle, optimised torque and best bhp if set up properly.
Having race pistons by which I assume you mean forged will handle some detonation unlike cast which will not, the detonation is due to to much advance (to early spark) at wide open throttle this could be exacerbated by weak mixture, not enough acceleration enrichment.
In summary the Megajolt will not make power if it is not there but will enable you to extract most of it by optimising spark every where unlike the crude distributor which just draws a line from one rev point to another with no adjustment for load ( apart from vacuum which just shifts the line).





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Paul (Notts)

posted on 5/3/11 at 10:04 AM Reply With Quote
Changed the dizzy to megajolt two years ago on my rover V8, Once the map is correct it made it a lot smoother and it picked up on acceleration a lot better. Help to overcome some flat spots and removed some missfire casued by poor sparks al low revs.

Now using Megasquirt as The fueliing from the carb was the next issue to resolve.

Paul






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bill132hotrod

posted on 5/3/11 at 10:17 AM Reply With Quote
Thanks guys
Yes distributor changed to the one from a single cam engine and pistons are forged and pocketed to allow for valve lift, Carbs were sent to bogg brothers for initial clean up and set up to suit the 2.0 lt the was tweeked on the rolling road but only ignition and basic carb adjustment and has run fine although it started pinking and got progressivly worse over time and it has never been the best starter from cold, but ok when at normal working temp.





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austin man

posted on 5/3/11 at 12:33 PM Reply With Quote
sound like the ignition timing is slightly out this can move on a distributor driven system and generaly on the more highly tuned. I had the same problem on mine running a Gems ECU with the timming slightly out sounded really tight to turn over when cold this was due to timming ran okay when started but backfired on lift off





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