pekwah1
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| posted on 20/3/11 at 03:30 PM |
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No spark! (and inlet q)
Well finally got the engine cranking! but i have no spark....
Now just want to ask a couple of noob questions before i continue looking into it...
The engine is a 1300 xflow with a 32/36 carb.
I have a unipart coil.
The coil is currently wired direct to the battery while testing, and then obviously king lead to dizzy, ht's to sparks.
When cranking, the dizzy is rotating, but i have no spark.
I have actually only had number 4 spark plug out while cranking and there's no spark at all.
Admittedly i should have had the rest out as well but i'm lazy...
What i did also notice is that the coil seems to be especially warm, is this normal?
Anyway, plan is to remove all spark plugs and check them too, but assuming i don't get a spark, do you think this could be the coil?
The coil actually looks quite new, and the dizzy seems to be in reasonable condition. Spark plugs could maybe use a change but don't look like
they shouldn't produce a spark...
Second question, is this the fuel inlet on my carb? again, it's a 32/36 weber.
Answers on a post card!
Thanks.,
Andy
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minitici
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| posted on 20/3/11 at 03:48 PM |
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Presume you have connected positive lead of coil to the positive of the battery and the negative lead of the coil to the distributer contact
breaker?
If you have wired both terminals of the coil to the battery a) that won't work b) the coil will cook...
[Edited on 20/3/11 by minitici]
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rusty nuts
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| posted on 20/3/11 at 04:19 PM |
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What distributor? points or electronic? if electronic IIRC there should be 3 wires from the distributor black, green and brown? black goes to coil
positive, green to coil negative and brown to earth also make sure you have an electronic ignition coil, not a points type
[Edited on 20/3/11 by rusty nuts]
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rachaeljf
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| posted on 20/3/11 at 04:19 PM |
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Oops, you might have cooked your coil. If you have a points distributor and you leave it standing with the points closed (quite likely), your coil is
effectively connected directly across the battery. It is not designed to carry a full continuous current.
This is why a) you should feed the coil from your ignition switch, and b) you shouldn't leave the ignition switched on for too long without the
engine running.
Feeling the coil temperature by hand isn't a good guide. Once he coil gets above about 60 degrees C (again quite likely) it will be too hot to
touch. The coil is meant to get hot, but as I said it shouldn't be left connected as you have done!
Have you checked the points gap?
Cheers R
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pekwah1
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| posted on 20/3/11 at 05:50 PM |
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whoopsiedoodle.
yes i wired it both neg and pos straight to the battery....
So next question is what the hell is a dizzy contact breaker and what does it look like?
I guess i'll try again later and see if i killed the coil!
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adithorp
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| posted on 20/3/11 at 06:26 PM |
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Pretty good description here Scrol down to "mechanical ignition" but setting
points is realy something you need to be shown how to do.
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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minitici
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| posted on 20/3/11 at 07:15 PM |
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If you are still running contact breaker points in your dizzy, you should consider fitting one of these electronic modules.
Ford Escort AccuSpark Electronic ignition kit Lucas 25d on eBay (end time 23-Mar-11 16:16:04 GMT)
I've fitted one to my Austin Seven and it saves fiddling about with point adjustment.
The Accuspark unit is similar to the Pertronix (Aldon Igniter) type unit and fits neatly inside the dizzy cap (but is £££'s cheaper).
[Edited on 20/3/11 by minitici]
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pekwah1
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| posted on 21/3/11 at 07:29 PM |
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Well i have tried again today and failed, still no spark.
Just wanted to confirm that i have linked the neg of the coil to the right place:
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adithorp
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| posted on 21/3/11 at 07:37 PM |
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Appears to be correct but it's a bit fuzzy. Have you set the points gap?
"A witty saying proves nothing" Voltaire
http://jpsc.org.uk/forum/
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