FASTdan
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 06:54 AM |
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Prop Catcher - Demand?
I will be manufacturing something to do this job for our own car as below:
Would there be a demand for it as a product? material would be 5mm Mild Steel, weight of a pair as shown above 280g. Price I would hope for £10 per
pair - obviously most installations will require 2 pairs.
The plate is designed to be as wide as the standard book chassis tunnel and can therefore be fastened directly to the vertical box sections - OR as in
some cases, may need spacing off the box to position it 'inboard' of the UV joint. The hole through the middle is 70mm providing a 10mm
clearance around the prop.
The above could be done in 6mm alu to reduce weight but price would need to be £15ish per pair.
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40inches
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 07:08 AM |
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Don't like the overlap,I would prefer it if the plates butted together, to give 4 separate mounting holes, otherwise I would be interested if
they will be available in the next couple of weeks, and they fit the MK.
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gavin174
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 07:21 AM |
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hi
I would be interested.
not sure if 2 holes in each chassis tube might weeken the chassis a bit (4 for each catcher)
http://www.essexkitcarclub.com
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FASTdan
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 07:23 AM |
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Thanks for the response - I have only just added the overlap to eliminate 2 fasteners as I thought people might be put off by more drilling/nutserting
etc, cost wise it wont make any difference either way. What dont you like about it?
Probabyl needs a rad on the internal corner to eliminate any catch point, but I cant see any other issue?
*edit to add once I have feedback I can have these ready within 2 weeks.
[Edited on 12/5/11 by FASTdan]
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40inches
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 07:41 AM |
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My thinking is that 4 mounting points will spread the load,wouldn't a single mounting point halfway down the chassis tube be prone to buckling
in a side impact, as against 2 mounting points nearer the ends of the tube But this is just my thinking, probably talking borrocks
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martyn_16v
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 07:53 AM |
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If you have a side impact hard enough to start buckling the tunnel, you're probably already mincemeat...
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FASTdan
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 07:58 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by martyn_16v
If you have a side impact hard enough to start buckling the tunnel, you're probably already mincemeat...
Not only that but you'd be looking at buckling both verticals - given that the plate is tying the two together.
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jonrotheray
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 08:17 AM |
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Yes please!
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Bluemoon
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 08:20 AM |
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Interested but need to measure the MK indy prop and chassis..
Not sure it would be correct for a live axel (perfect for IRS though) you might need an oval hole . If you made the over lap twice the length you
could use 2 bolt holes as suggested above but choose oval large, oval small or circular hole depending on how you mounted it?? One could the chose the
smallest hole size required for any set-up???
Dan
[Edited on 12/5/11 by Bluemoon]
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jossey
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 08:23 AM |
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same as above i would be interested but i dont like the overlap.
Let me know how you get on.
Thanks
David Johnson
Building my tiger avon slowly but surely.
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johny p
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 09:02 AM |
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yes i will defo have 2 please
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yozza
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 09:23 AM |
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Yes
Very interested
Let me know if you go ahead.
Regards
Joe Hughes
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RichardK
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 09:27 AM |
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I personally would prefer this design
 
chunky2772 prop catcher 1
But maybe a bit faffy due to different tunnel width and prop diamentions.
Cheers
Rich
Gallery updated 11/01/2011
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mcerd1
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 09:36 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by FASTdan
Thanks for the response - I have only just added the overlap to eliminate 2 fasteners as I thought people might be put off by more drilling/nutserting
etc, cost wise it wont make any difference either way. What dont you like about it?
Probabyl needs a rad on the internal corner to eliminate any catch point, but I cant see any other issue?
As I see it the overlap might actually be a benafit - it'll hold the 2 halfs together better thatn bolting each half to the chassis on its own
and I don't think youd need a radius on the inside corners, just cut the 1/2 circle hole then take the strait line to the edge of the part like
this:
 
Prop Catcher Idea
I can't use any of these ones as they are though - my dax chassis doesn't have tubes in the right place for them 
[Edited on 12/5/2011 by mcerd1]
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FASTdan
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 09:36 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Bluemoon
Interested but need to measure the MK indy prop and chassis..
Not sure it would be correct for a live axel (perfect for IRS though) you might need an oval hole . If you made the over lap twice the length you
could use 2 bolt holes as suggested above but choose oval large, oval small or circular hole depending on how you mounted it?? One could the chose the
smallest hole size required for any set-up???
Dan
[Edited on 12/5/11 by Bluemoon]
Thats an excellent idea. I will look into modifying the design as per the above. This will allow the overlap to be removed by the builder if desired
and offer 2 or 4 fasteners.
This will definitely go ahead as there is enough interest in this post alone to justify the investment.
Richard, that is indeed a nice design but there is no way I could produce it for the same cost and I cannot see any benefit over and above my design
(apart from a few grams).
A few have mentioned the indy - this is designed around the indy's tunnel, overall width of the plate being a couple of mm less than the tunnels
outside dims.
I will publish a drawing to allow people to measure up anyway.
Thanks for everyones input, keep 'em coming.
[Edited on 12/5/11 by FASTdan]
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Neville Jones
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 09:56 AM |
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Make the material thickness 3mm. That's plenty big enough in the application.Otherwise, to match the strengths, the bolts will have to be
12mm!Or more.
I could use a few of these.
Cheers,
nev.
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FASTdan
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 09:56 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
I can't use any of these ones as they are though - my dax chassis doesn't have tubes in the right place for them
[Edited on 12/5/2011 by mcerd1]
How far out are the verticals though? I see no reason you couldn't space these plates off the box sections using pillars to clear the UJ as
required.
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mcerd1
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 10:11 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by FASTdan
quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
I can't use any of these ones as they are though - my dax chassis doesn't have tubes in the right place for them
How far out are the verticals though? I see no reason you couldn't space these plates off the box sections using pillars to clear the UJ as
required.
the dax tunnel is a totaly different design to the locosts, there is no top rail / vericals - everything is diagonal apart from the lower rails
its hard to explain and I don't have all my pics with me, so I've nicked someone elses build pics:
[Edited on 12/5/2011 by mcerd1]
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FASTdan
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 10:18 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Neville Jones
Make the material thickness 3mm. That's plenty big enough in the application.Otherwise, to match the strengths, the bolts will have to be
12mm!Or more.
I could use a few of these.
Cheers,
nev.
Agreed on the strength - I had 5mm for a peace of mind thing, it 'looks' right whereas 3mm to Joe public it might look a bit flimsy.
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designer
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 10:24 AM |
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A good idea, but vastly over-engineered.
When a UJ fails the impact is on the edge of a sheet catcher, and can be controlled by 2mm material.
Also, you have to bear in mind that you only need a prop catcher at the gearbox, power input, end.
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FASTdan
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 10:28 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by designer
A good idea, but vastly over-engineered.
When a UJ fails the impact is on the edge of a sheet catcher, and can be controlled by 2mm material.
Also, you have to bear in mind that you only need a prop catcher at the gearbox, power input, end.
How come only the gearbox end?
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Neville Jones
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 10:30 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by designer
A good idea, but vastly over-engineered.
When a UJ fails the impact is on the edge of a sheet catcher, and can be controlled by 2mm material.
Also, you have to bear in mind that you only need a prop catcher at the gearbox, power input, end.
You've never been on the recieving end of a rear UJ letting loose? Far worse than a front.
You need a retraint that does both ends.
Not wanting to put Dan out of work, but suitably placed uprights in the tunnel structure, with tubes across the top, will do the job. You've
only got to stop the prop taking out your legs or hips.
Cheers,
Nev.
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designer
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 10:41 AM |
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Generally the design of the transmission tunnel should stop a broken prop from entering the cockpit. A catcher is to save the prop from hitting the
floor, digging in an flipping the car.
The prop shaft should have the same quality of joint front and rear to any failure will be at the front when all the reactions are, as the rear is
'cushioned' a little by the tubular shaft.
If a rear joint fails the shaft will clatter about a lot but cannot dig into anything as it is trailing. A front failure, and the prop hitting the
floor, is exremely dangerous as it can dig into the road surface with dire results.
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FASTdan
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 10:43 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by Neville Jones
quote:
Originally posted by designer
A good idea, but vastly over-engineered.
When a UJ fails the impact is on the edge of a sheet catcher, and can be controlled by 2mm material.
Also, you have to bear in mind that you only need a prop catcher at the gearbox, power input, end.
You've never been on the recieving end of a rear UJ letting loose? Far worse than a front.
You need a retraint that does both ends.
Not wanting to put Dan out of work, but suitably placed uprights in the tunnel structure, with tubes across the top, will do the job. You've
only got to stop the prop taking out your legs or hips.
Cheers,
Nev.
Don't worry about me, this is a product for either a standard chassis build or a retro-fit, as you say there's other ways of solving but a
bolt in item will suit some
I would also hope that such a device will also save the chassis from serious damage.
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FASTdan
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| posted on 12/5/11 at 10:46 AM |
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unless I am very much mistaken both front and rear UJ's transmit the same torque during any conditions therefore have an equal chance of
failure.
If all you are interested in is stopping the prop hitting the floor a bar across the bottom of the tunnel both front and rear will suffice.
[Edited on 12/5/11 by FASTdan]
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