david_hornet27
|
| posted on 15/7/11 at 06:43 PM |
|
|
Zetec timing
Hi Guys,
I have searched on here and google but found no definitive answer on how to set the timing on a 1999 Blacktop Zetec 2.0. I gather you need a tool to
lock everything in place, and that the bolt holding the crank pulley on is a pig to get off.
Can anyone recommend which timing tool is best as there are loads on ebay and all look slightly different? I cant really get my head round how they
are used so I am having difficulty choosing.
And can anyone point me in the direction of a guide on how to get the job done or give me advice please? I have not taken the existing belt off yet
because I couldn't see any timing marks like on the good old pinto! Thought I'd come and ask on here before I mess it up.
Thanks in advance for any help, you guys usually come up trumps!
Regards, Dave.
|
|
|
|
|
lotusmadandy
|
| posted on 15/7/11 at 06:53 PM |
|
|
The only timing tool i have ever used is
a length of 5mm bar to lock the cams.i always
Set the engine at tdc,mark it up and change the belt.
Never had a problem undoing the bolts on the cam
pulleys,just dont rely on the locking bar to hold the cams
still,they can snap.
Use the flat sections on the cam.
Oh and the bolt on the pulley is 18mm and is easy
enough to loosen.
Simples
Andy
[Edited on 15/7/11 by lotusmadandy]
|
|
|
david_hornet27
|
| posted on 15/7/11 at 07:00 PM |
|
|
Ok thanks Andy. Have just nipped up Halfords and got a Haynes manual so should be OK. Reading some horror stories on Ford forums made me a bit
jittery!
|
|
|
Davegtst
|
| posted on 15/7/11 at 07:28 PM |
|
|
Black tops have the slots in the gearbox end of the cams but don't have any locking device for the crank (silver tops have a pin that screws
through the back of the block). Take all the plugs out and with a micrometer (long screwdriver) resting on no 1 piston turn the engine by hand until
it is at exactly TDC and the cam slots line up. Put the cam tool in and mark the bottom pulley if it has a woodruff key. When you undo the crank
pulley it's best to do it with an air gun as they can be very tight. DO NOT CRANK THE ENGINE WITH A SPANNER ON THE BOLT TO LOOSEN IT! Some
black tops have woodruff keys on the end of the crank but some are only held on by a taper so be very carefull. I usually use mole grips to hold the
cams still while i loosen off the cam pulley bolts (these are held in place by a taper so it is pointless marking them) and as said don't rely
on the timing tool to hold the cam still, you can break the end off the camshaft. I have seen cam pulley bolts so tight before that i had to get the
bolts machined out and replaced but most of the time they are only about 100NM. When you are done turn the engine over by hand to make sure no1
piston is still at TDC and the slots line up, i usually do this a few times just to make sure. They make quite a mess if the timing is out even at
cranking speed.
|
|
|
big_wasa
|
| posted on 15/7/11 at 10:34 PM |
|
|
Both the silver tops and the black tops I have done have all had the hole for the crank pin. It doesnt lock the crank but the web sits against it.
|
|
|
zetec
|
| posted on 16/7/11 at 12:54 AM |
|
|
Best way I saw to find TDC was by Dave Walker of Emerald fame. Get an old spark plug and remove the electrode (end that sits inside the engine) screw
in a length of studding or bolt thread long enough to touch the piston top on its way up to TDC. With this fitted turn the engine over til the piston
makes contact, mark the crank pulley with a reference point on the engine block, then turn the engine in the opposite direction and do the same. now
the mid point of the two marks on the crank pully when lined up with the reference point on the block must be TDC. Lot easier then setting up a dial
guage and I'm sure just as accurate.
|
|
|
whitestu
|
| posted on 16/7/11 at 07:29 AM |
|
|
Using a dial gauge is easy as long as you have the right fittings - just mark at each end of the range of max reading and TDC is in the middle.
Stu
|
|
|