Printable Version | Subscribe | Add to Favourites
New Topic New Poll New Reply
Author: Subject: blade turbo headers
gaz_gaz

posted on 11/5/14 at 01:18 PM Reply With Quote
blade turbo headers

Hi guys.

I'm looking to have headers made to turbo a blade engine.
Any recommendations or anyone willing to help/do the job in exchange for pound notes?

thanks

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
mark chandler

posted on 11/5/14 at 02:03 PM Reply With Quote
I made mine from a chopped up stainless bike header, works well but has cracked so suggest you get it made in mild steel as less chance of it cracking.

It takes a long time to make them, if you get the mandrel bends, chop them up and hold everything together with gaffa tape I do not mind welding together.

What turbo you sticking on, come over and have a look at my setup if you want, I'll even take you out

Regards Mark

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
gaz_gaz

posted on 11/5/14 at 05:02 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Mark,

My plan at the moment is to go with a TD04 from the 2.3 T5 or T5R Volvo.
Do you think this would be suitable? Only interested in running it at 8psi or so for now so i can stick with the standard head gasket and internals.
I've seen your link to the psycworks website for a lockup clutch should i require it.

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
dave_424

posted on 11/5/14 at 05:03 PM Reply With Quote
I built my manifold from "butt-weld fittings" from www.zx55.com very good price

I used 1.25" schedule 10 bends in 304 stainless, then got some flanges laser cut from 304 also. Tigged it up and ended up with this for my TD04 turbo and 38mm external wastegate





[Edited on 11/5/14 by dave_424]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member
mark chandler

posted on 11/5/14 at 05:25 PM Reply With Quote
Mine was 7psi and delivered 201 BHP, it's now running around 8psi which is plenty fast enough.

The lockup clutch does not include the 1" spacer so you will also need to get one cut, my clutch started slipping at around 175bhp with Barnett h/d springs and OEM plates.

As you are running a water cooled oil fed turbo it will need to be mounted high enough for the oil to drain back into the sump, you can take an oil feed from the gantry where the pressure switch fits.

Losing heat is still a problem on mine, so dropping it out the side helps, I can TIG so if you assemble the bits like above I can join up for you including a bung in the sump. I do not have a flange on the bike end, just tubes from the original headers.

Regards Mark

[Edited on 11/5/14 by mark chandler]

View User's Profile View All Posts By User U2U Member

New Topic New Poll New Reply


go to top






Website design and SEO by Studio Montage

All content © 2001-16 LocostBuilders. Reproduction prohibited
Opinions expressed in public posts are those of the author and do not necessarily represent
the views of other users or any member of the LocostBuilders team.
Running XMB 1.8 Partagium [© 2002 XMB Group] on Apache under CentOS Linux
Founded, built and operated by ChrisW.