tegwin
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 03:23 PM |
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CV boot etiquette
Although I can't actually find a hole I have what appears to be fresh CV grease splattered at high velocity around the inner NS cv joint on my
transporter.
So I guess the boot needs replacing ASAP as there can't be much lube left inside..
It, I suspect, is going to be an effort to get at...so my question is, would you just replace the boot or, seeings as the joint has to be taken apart,
replace the workings inside regardless?! Never done one but I'd guess its not too tricky?
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ian locostzx9rc2
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 03:52 PM |
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If it's an inner clean and re grease and a new boot should be ok
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britishtrident
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 04:35 PM |
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You don't need to dismantle the joint just use a stretch boot and either a fitting cone (very cheap but not that easy especially in cold
weather) or a boot expanding spider (expensive).
[Edited on 17/2/16 by britishtrident]
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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loggyboy
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 05:00 PM |
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is it well sealed? any signs of oil out of seams? might just need retightening.
Mistral Motorsport
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nick205
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 05:22 PM |
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I've overhauled a few drive shafts and found it best to remove them from the vehicle and replace the boot and clips filled with new grease. The
CVs themselves seem to hold up pretty well unless the repair is overlooked for a period of time. I'd also get a price from VW for a CV boot kit
as they can be cheaper than expected and OEM stuff does seem to be better made.
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tegwin
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 05:40 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by loggyboy
is it well sealed? any signs of oil out of seams? might just need retightening.
Its a bugger to get anywhere near it to see where the oil could be coming from.
Agreed OEM might be the way forward. I need it to stop raining so I can get the thing apart for a look 
A relief that I probably dont need to change the CV at least.
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obfripper
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 10:12 PM |
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Is it a t5?
Depending on model it may have a breather hole at the small end of the boot that can fling out small amounts of grease with no consequence.
If it is split/damaged, the n/s inner joint can be changed/replaced without removing the shaft from the hub.
If you unbolt the inner flange, unbolt the lower balljoint and tie back the hub, you can then drop the inner joint off the gearbox flange so it is
accessible, tap off the inner cap, mark the position of the shaft wrt joint and remove the retaining circlip.
You'll need to cut the old boot off so you can get in to drift the joint off.
Reassemble and torque the flange bolts to 80Nm for m10 bolts.
Either genuine vw, or euro car parts may do an oem (lobro or gkn) boot kit, anything cheaper is likely to be a false economy.
Dave
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tegwin
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 10:29 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by obfripper
Is it a t5?
Depending on model it may have a breather hole at the small end of the boot that can fling out small amounts of grease with no consequence.
If it is split/damaged, the n/s inner joint can be changed/replaced without removing the shaft from the hub.
If you unbolt the inner flange, unbolt the lower balljoint and tie back the hub, you can then drop the inner joint off the gearbox flange so it is
accessible, tap off the inner cap, mark the position of the shaft wrt joint and remove the retaining circlip.
You'll need to cut the old boot off so you can get in to drift the joint off.
Reassemble and torque the flange bolts to 80Nm for m10 bolts.
Either genuine vw, or euro car parts may do an oem (lobro or gkn) boot kit, anything cheaper is likely to be a false economy.
Dave
Yup it is a T5! Great advice thanks 
You sound knowledgeable on the T5! Have you ever tried to change a steering rack?! Its on my hit list as the current one is shagged.... Its either one
of those jobs that just works properly or it turns into a nightmare when I can't get the old one out or something... can't decide if I
should dig into my pocket and get it done by someone with a lift 
[Edited on 17/2/16 by tegwin]
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tegwin
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 10:37 PM |
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Also, what are peoples thoughts on CV boot clips? Can the metal ones be crimped tight enough without the special tool?
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obfripper
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 11:07 PM |
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I've not done one, but removing the rack will need the subframe to be lowered/removed, and alignment pins will be needed to refit the subframe,
it may well be hard work without a 2 post ramp, at least 2 large axle stands and 2 decent trolley jacks at a minimum on a flat solid concrete.
I take it the guide bushes are worn and it rattles over rough ground?
If it is just play in the tie rod balljoints, they can be replaced without removing/replacing the rack (at a pinch stilson pipe grips will unscrew
them from the rack at full lock), it will need new clips for the plastic gaiters/boots.
The proper boot clip clamp will be needed to get a good seal with plastic boots, you may have some success with 'end pincer' pliers, but
they lack the required leverage to fully close the clips.
Dave
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tegwin
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| posted on 17/2/16 at 11:17 PM |
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Thanks Dave.
I have really bad play in the steering. Its worse than driving my old 110 defender. On the motorway the van wanders and theres quite a serious dead
spot in the steering wheels movement before you are in control again. Ive checked the intermediate steering shafts and the inner tie rod joints and
they are fine. I have a new rack sat here waiting to be fitted.
I was wondering if it were a subframe off job... hmm.. Maybe its worth the £165 I have been quoted to just have it done.... Apart from one warranty
job I have never sent any of my cars to a garage to be worked on... but trying to take the subframe off on a sloping drive in the cold/rain might not
be a good idea I just find it hard to trust spanner monkeys!
[Edited on 17/2/16 by tegwin]
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nick205
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| posted on 18/2/16 at 10:07 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tegwin
Also, what are peoples thoughts on CV boot clips? Can the metal ones be crimped tight enough without the special tool?
In the past I've crimped the metal clips using what I call fencing pliers to do so. They worked and held OK and IMHO are better than faffing
with plastic cable ties.
ETA...theses things...
https://www.jacksons-fencing.co.uk/product/sc_334100/wire-cutter-for-3.15mm-high-tensile-or-4.0mm-mild-steel-plain-wire.aspx?tpc
=AF&fmc=CS&fnc=CB&timber=1
[Edited on 18/2/16 by nick205]
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ianhurley20
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| posted on 18/2/16 at 10:14 AM |
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I've used this company for a few years for CV boots and cone kits and drive shafts
http://www.jandrcvjoints.co.uk/
and found them to be very good.
Their drive shafts are very cheap and sometimes its cheaper to replace the whole shaft . last one was a couple of weeks ago, Renault Clio Mk 2, the
drive shaft complete with abs ring and post was only £26, not worth the extra time and hassle in even trying to repair it
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britishtrident
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| posted on 18/2/16 at 10:22 AM |
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I also just use pincers bought from B&Q with the edges blunted a bit.
Strategy for repairing CV and shafts varies depending a lot on access and other factors. I have one of those pullers for removing the outer CV from
the shaft, it wasn't expensive and gets a lot of use to pull the CV leaving the shaft undisturbed on car.
[I] “ What use our work, Bennet, if we cannot care for those we love? .”
― From BBC TV/Amazon's Ripper Street.
[/I]
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