nick205
|
| posted on 23/2/25 at 02:51 PM |
|
|
Plumbing - taps - flexi-pipes or copper pipes?
Afternoon people,
I need to replace the mixer tap / shower feed on my bath. It's currently plumbed in with 22mm to 3/4" flexi-pipes.
I could get new flexi-pipes and do the same again, but the internal bore of most 22mm flexi-pipes seems to be between 10-13mm (not great for the
shower flow).
It's quite tight for space working under the bath, which is probably why it was done with flexi-pipes in the first place.
If I man-up and get soldering with 22mm copper pipe I'll get much better flow to the shower.
Thoughts, comments and experiences please?
Edit to add the hot pipe flexi-pipehas leaked before and damaged the ceiling below.
[Edited on 23-2-25 by nick205]
|
|
|
|
|
adam1985
|
| posted on 23/2/25 at 06:01 PM |
|
|
I would always go with copper pipes, the braided flexi pipes can leak after time
Do you have a combo boiler or dhw cylinder?
|
|
|
cliftyhanger
|
| posted on 24/2/25 at 07:05 AM |
|
|
I have been using flexi pipes in my, and other rental properties, plus my own homes for 30 years or so.
In that time I have seen 1, yes 1, split and leak. That one was fitted before we bought the house, and the flexi had been kinked.
A shower won't need a 22mm feed unless it has a MASSIVE shower head and is from a gravity tank. Anything with mains pressure will be fine, after
all many houses I have worked in have a 15mm feed for the entire house. Our shower at home is fed with 15mm polypipe and uses 10mm bore flexis. Of
full it feels like it could knock you over. That is with a combi boiler.
So my conclusion is flexis are fine, but probably worth avoiding the cheapo versions and if worried use the bigger bore type.
|
|
|
JAG
|
| posted on 24/2/25 at 08:15 AM |
|
|
I have also used the flexi-pipes on several sets of taps and I've never had a leak.
On the bore diameter: at my house the main water pipe, coming into the house with the Stopcock inline, is only 15mm so putting anything bigger
elsewhere in the house seems a waste of time.
Justin
Who is this super hero? Sarge? ...No.
Rosemary, the telephone operator? ...No.
Penry, the mild-mannered janitor? ...Could be!
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 24/2/25 at 09:08 AM |
|
|
Combi boiler (other side of the wall from the bath).
The previous leak from the flexi-pipe was where it screwed onto the tap. Plumber had just screwed it on and not used any PTFE tape or jointing
compound on the thread. So I guess the flexi-pipe itself didn't leak, but was poorly fitted.
Regarding my concern on the narrow bore of the flexi-pipes I supppose I'm trying to give the combi boiler the best cheance at gettin max water
volume to the shower head.
Thanks for the feedback people.
|
|
|
JoelP
|
| posted on 24/2/25 at 12:26 PM |
|
|
Flexi fine. I did my bath tap hand tight and it's not leaked, but they do say that I'm tight fisted...
Spanner at the bottom, hand tighten onto the tap where there's poor access. Rubber ring doesn't want crushing anyway...
[Edited on 24/2/25 by JoelP]
|
|
|
gremlin1234
|
| posted on 25/2/25 at 09:06 PM |
|
|
quote:
Regarding my concern on the narrow bore of the flexi-pipes I supppose I'm trying to give the combi boiler the best cheance at gettin max
water volume to the shower head.
you could always up the flow by using a shower pump
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 26/2/25 at 10:51 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by gremlin1234
quote:
Regarding my concern on the narrow bore of the flexi-pipes I supppose I'm trying to give the combi boiler the best cheance at gettin max
water volume to the shower head.
you could always up the flow by using a shower pump
Considered this approach, but:
1. The Combi boiler is literally the other side of the wall
2. (Correct me if I'm wrong) but you can't add a shower pump after a combi boiler (can you?)
If simply replacing the flexi-pipes with copper pipes opens up the flow then surely that's cheaper and easier than fitting a shower pump in
there?
|
|
|
adam1985
|
| posted on 26/2/25 at 07:15 PM |
|
|
Your combi boiler will have a flow restrictor fitted so regardless of what you do with pipe work this is going to be your limiting factor, unless you
have drastically low flow anything you do to change it isn’t going to have much affect.
A 30 kw combi will be around 10-13 L/min, a shower is unlikely to pull this from dhw
If you wanted to get serious about making your dhw better you would be better off removing all 22mm and replacing it with 15mm. 15mm would reduce the
volume of water in the pipe work which would reduce the heat up time at the tap. All combi boilers use 15mm connections and have 15mm waterways
inside. 15mm is more than adequate for the amount of water the flow restrictor will pass
There is no need to thread tape/paste the thread on a bath tap, they are a parallel thread so all of the sealing is made on the sealing face, as above
if a rubber seal just hand tight then a gentle pinch up with a spanner. If it’s a fibre washer it will need a little more.
Flexi hose DO split. how often, not very but when they go they can make a mess. Enough for me to remove them from my house
In reality what would I do if I was you. I’d just replace the pipe work like for like
[Edited on 26/2/25 by adam1985]
|
|
|
perksy
|
| posted on 26/2/25 at 10:17 PM |
|
|
Flexi's are fine, but need to be checked periodically, Use good quality branded ones
I've seen what happens when the do pop though and trust me it ain't pretty, their banned now at work and We pipe everything up in copper
|
|
|
nick205
|
| posted on 27/2/25 at 09:58 AM |
|
|
Thanks adam1985 and perksy
Having had them leak before and damage the kitchen ceiling below (+my water flow cocern), while I'm fitting a new tap to the bath I'm
inclinded to replace them with copper pipe/fittings. Make periodic checks for leaks and go that direction.
My kitchen tap, upstairs & downstairs WCs & basin taps all have flexi-pipes with no leaks. They're much easier to check and far less
scope for damage if they do leak as well.
Thanks all for your input.
|
|
|
