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Author: Subject: Clutch Probs
slim Jim

posted on 21/9/05 at 05:35 PM Reply With Quote
Clutch Probs

Nothing to do with my build but hoped someone might be able to shed some light on a problem I am having with my Honda Accord.

The biting point on the clutch appears to 'move', sometimes it is very low down and other times it is near the top of the pedal travel. When it bites low down there seems enough pressure on the plate to move the car slightly but then the clutch slips until nearer the top of the travel. Today I noticed that the pedal stuck slightly before the top of its travel and then 'snap' to the top of its travel.

I hope there is a simple explanation (but I doubt it ) as my mate has the same car and had to have the clutch replaced and for the pleasure he paid £500 – even though I think they saw him coming it will still cost to take it to a garage and as you can appreciate this would put a big dent in my Velocity build budget which I would love to avoid.

So any help would be much appreciated please!!!!

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rusty nuts

posted on 21/9/05 at 05:58 PM Reply With Quote
Is it a cable cluth or hydraulic, auto adjustor or manual? May possbly be hydraulic system fault causing problem, leaking slave or faulty master cylinder?
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Hellfire

posted on 21/9/05 at 06:29 PM Reply With Quote
My Honda Accord (was the same... does it also click on the return from depression almost near the top? If it does it'll be cable controlled and the auto-adjuster is on it's last few notch's, meaning clutch replacement.



That was my car a 1998 1.8S not a bad car but had it's faults. IIRC cost me (well the company) £350 4-5 years ago. Car had done 96K miles BTW all motorway but with some occasional 'fast getaways

[Edited on 21-9-05 by Hellfire]

[Edited on 21-9-05 by Hellfire]






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slim Jim

posted on 21/9/05 at 10:11 PM Reply With Quote
Sounds like my worst fear as it is a self adjusting cable type and yes I do get the 'click' near the top of the travel when I release the pedal.

Seems a bit poor if the clutch is knackered as the car has done less than 40,000 miles and the clutch has not been hammered. If it was £350 a few years ago £500 is probably not that far out now

Thankyou for your help though, even though it was the news I did not want to hear. Looks like a trip ot the garage in the next few days

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MautoK

posted on 22/9/05 at 12:50 PM Reply With Quote
I had the identical symptoms on my Peugeot 306 a few years back. Cable was replaced (at my expense) and it's ben perfect since. But you do wonder that you might be paying for design errors?
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lexi

posted on 22/9/05 at 09:39 PM Reply With Quote
If you can build a sports car you can do the clutch yourself......Yes? Shop around for bits. Try to keep away from Honda Main Stealer. If yours is a British built one you will have a better chance of getting reasonably priced pattern parts. Good Accord forum in USA. I have Accord Coupe
which is built in Ohio with all Jap bits. It is a better car than the British built ones.............and it`s auto. American site is Honda Tech.com. Haynes will sell you an American manual direct.
Alex

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Peteff

posted on 22/9/05 at 10:58 PM Reply With Quote
Pull some cable through the lever at the gearbox end and put a cable clip on it. My Escort one lasted another 20,000 miles and still didn't get to the rivets. If the lever is splined at the gearbox end turn it round a bit.





yours, Pete

I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.

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britishtrident

posted on 23/9/05 at 07:31 AM Reply With Quote
Surprised its the cable type as the mid 90s Acord/Rover 600 was hydraulic
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