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Author: Subject: 2.0L EFi Pinto - Help!
philgregson

posted on 18/2/03 at 10:17 AM Reply With Quote
2.0L EFi Pinto - Help!

Not strictly a LOCOST question but as it is a common LOCOST engine I thought it was relavent enough to stick in here.

We have a 2.0L sieera Ghia (auto) that I aquired for nowt as a doner for the rear axle and diff - Unfortunately it turned out to be a 'good' car and my girlfriend now drives it.

It runs well and smoothly once warm but has developed a problem with cold starting - I wondered if any of you lot might have a clue.

It used to start well but then developed a misfire, running only on three cylinders untill it was warm, after which it was fine.

Changed the plugs and filter at the weekend and the filter was very dirty and the plugs sooty.

Ever since the damn thing will barely start at all! It has also been many degrees below freezing ever since - this may be a clue or may be coincidental.

Now it turns over and fires and splutters but will not run. When, and if, it does eventually get going it only runs on three cylinders, sounds like a bag of spanners and has bugger all power - untill it gets warm - from then on it runs as sweetly as ever and starts first flick of the key for the rest of the day.

I was under the impression that the EFi's dealt with pretty much all of these problems and rarely went wrong. Someone kindly stuck it on a diagnostic machine for me which showed no fault at all!

Any ideas anyone?

I have a suspision that it could be the ECU it's self. If this is the case I will try and stick in another one from a breakers to try but before I buy the wrong one: Is the ECU from an auto the same as one from a non-auto.

Im am puzzled and rapidly becomming fustrated and wound up by the damn thing.

Any help would be gratefully recieved.

(I could be getting my back axle back but after spending cash fettling this one I would sooner keep it going.)

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Metal Hippy™

posted on 18/2/03 at 12:56 PM Reply With Quote
As far as I know, auto ECUs are different to manual ones.

Something to do with feedback from the engine or something...

Then again I could be talking rather loudly out my arse...





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philgregson

posted on 18/2/03 at 01:02 PM Reply With Quote
That is what I suspected.

Phil

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Metal Hippy™

posted on 18/2/03 at 01:05 PM Reply With Quote
What?

Me talking out of my arse?







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CairB

posted on 18/2/03 at 01:10 PM Reply With Quote
Have you tried new leads, distributer cap and rotor arm?. I've had a Sierra for years and generally this fixes similar symptoms.
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Stu16v

posted on 18/2/03 at 04:20 PM Reply With Quote
And another thing to try is the spark plug gaps. I serviced a Mk5 Escort once, and being lazy/saving time, just whizzed the plugs in. It did exactly as you decribe. After trying all sorts of other stuff, I whipped them back out and put the old ones back in. Problem gone....Gapped the plugs to their correct setting (80 thou IIRC instead of the 25 thou 'standard' gap) and refitted, problem solved! Worth a try if you havent already done so mate....





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philgregson

posted on 18/2/03 at 04:34 PM Reply With Quote
Anyone know the correct plug gap for the sierra EFI??

- Plugs just went straight in!

Phil

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jollygreengiant

posted on 18/2/03 at 07:37 PM Reply With Quote
plug gap on a pinto is usually about 25thou but the efi is not gap critical like a mk5 escort with a zetec lump, the zetec lumps (all) are very gap critical. I know it sounds a bit like teaching grandma to suck eggs like, but have you checked your valve clearances lately. I was starting to slag my EFI of for having a poorly injector because it was running like sh*t and using a lot of fuel. Set the valves clearances yesterday.
Another lot to consider are, airflow meter plug making poor contact, fuel mixture setting incorect (gas analyser required, with adjuster screwed fully home co should read no more than 6% if higher invert airflow meter, prise off square wedge shapped cover and with engine running adjust knurled wheel against spring until correct reading 6% obtained and refit cover,seal with silicone) then fit airflow meter correct way up again and adjust to 0.5%. also could check thermo/temp switch under inlet manifold.

ECU's are specific as well so you cant swap between sierra and granada, also there are early and late models. Try to get one with the same part number on it if you do end up trying the ECU route.




Enjoy.

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philgregson

posted on 18/2/03 at 08:02 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks all but I think I've got it.

Can't properly tell untill the morning 'cos it's been starting all day anyway but I took the dizzy cap off and there is a bloody great crack running round three quaters of it and a load of muck - rotor arm is shot too.

Funny cos if it was an old fashioned engine like wot I learnt on it would have been the first thing I checked but beacuse it is an EFi I assumed it must be something complicated.

By the way plug gap should be 0.75mm (around thirty thou.) and it was but a good idea stu - had me convinced for a while.

I'll see if it goes in the morning.

Thanks again chaps.

Phil

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philgregson

posted on 19/2/03 at 11:43 AM Reply With Quote
Doh!

Started and ran perfectly this morning.

I claim my prize for the person most likely to miss the bleedin' obvious!

Thanks again

Phil

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