smdl
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| posted on 19/3/06 at 04:18 AM |
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Which Type 9
Hoping someone can help me out with which Type 9 I have. It's from a 1986 Merkur XR4Ti (Sierra), and it is likely the same as all others sold
on this type of the pond.
My question relates to reports that their are two different types of Type 9 -- one that was for the 4 cylinder cars, and the other that was used for
the V6. As the 2.3 Turbo was pushing 175hp stock, I am wondering if the stronger model was used.
So, how can I tell? Are there distinguishing features? Can I tell from the markings on it?
Any help is appreciated.
Shaun
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dave r
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| posted on 19/3/06 at 07:15 AM |
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is the end of the input shaft inside the bell housing or does it protrude?
if its inside its a 4cylinder one, if its longer its v6
at least thats how i understand it 
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britishtrident
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| posted on 19/3/06 at 09:45 AM |
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Is it a Type 9 in the Merkur ? --- istr it might be something else.
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britishtrident
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| posted on 19/3/06 at 09:54 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
Is it a Type 9 in the Merkur ? --- istr it might be something else.
I checked it out it is a type 9 but no details on exact type -- think it wil be the 4 cylinder type but with the extra power involved over the
european 4 cylder engines it must have the heavy duty input shaft bearing of the V6 version.
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smdl
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| posted on 19/3/06 at 05:08 PM |
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Thanks for all your comments so far. 
With regard to the input shaft position in the bellhousing, it's not going to be that easy. I believe that the BH is different than those used
over there as it is designed to connect to the 2.3 Lima engine.
For use with my Focus SVT (ST170) engine, I know that I have to use either a modified Pinto BH (which apparently puts the starter in an inopportune
position) or a custom BH (Caterham US, Birkin, etc.). I will also have to cut down the tip of the input shaft a bit, but this is apparently simple to
do.
The reason I am attempting to find out which model I have is that I am concerned about both strength and ratios. I am going to put some money into
the trans rebuilding it, and I want to make sure that I will be happy with the result.
As I am using the stock Sierra diff in my build, I'm hoping that the ratios will be appropriate. The shop manual I have shows the ratios as
follows:
1st - 3.36:1
2nd - 1.81:1
3rd - 1.26:1
4th - 1.00:1
5th - 0:83:1
Rev - 3.36:1
There are two rear axle ratios available:
Manual Transmission: 3.64:1
Auto Transmission: 3.36:1
Mine should be the former, but I haven't checked yet as the whole subframe is out of the car, and the brakes are making rotation difficult. I
also wish I had known about loosening the axles nuts before removing the subframe! 
Assuming that it is 3.64:1, what kind of driving experience will this combination provide in a Locost?
Again, thanks for any input.
Shaun
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