gregf27
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| posted on 1/4/06 at 05:04 PM |
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Red top engine crank bolt removal!!
Any one have any tips for getting the crank bolt undone on my vx xe engine??
I've made several attempts with penetrating oil, socket and breaker bar(with scaffolding bar extension! ) impact wrench - all been bloody
useless!!
anything left to try ? or is it only oxy -acetylene to get a bit of heat into it thats the only option?
Greg
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Paul (Notts)
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| posted on 1/4/06 at 05:08 PM |
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The crank bolt on my rover V8 was a B*** to remove..
an impact wrench and some heat along with a socket and breaker bar - repeated over a 3 day period
best thing is to try and if it wont move, just try again later and again and again until it does..
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daviep
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| posted on 1/4/06 at 06:20 PM |
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A decent 3/4" drive impact gun usually takes them off no problem in my experience. I would avoid heat if at all possible.
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ned
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| posted on 2/4/06 at 01:33 AM |
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i've got one i've never managed to shift, but the crank needed a grind and i found another so i never bothered. whop the sump off and you
can chuck a block of wood inside between the crank and the block on number 1 to wedge it. then jump up and down on the longest extension bar
you've got and watch the whole block lurch about unless you have some way of wedging that aswell!
blowtorch, giving a good hammering, impact gun etc all good methods if they do the trick
beware, I've got yellow skin
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Nick Skidmore
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| posted on 2/4/06 at 10:09 AM |
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I did one that took 3 of us to shift.
Block of wood in the crank case, two of us stood on the engine block in a 'manly' embrace! and the third jumping up and down on the
breaker bar.
Shifted it eventually!
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NOTE:This user is registered as a LocostBuilders trader and may offer commercial services to other users
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Danozeman
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| posted on 2/4/06 at 07:02 PM |
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MIne was an arse too. I wedged the breaker bar against the chassis and spun it over on the starter. Hell of a bang but got it undone.
Not much use if its out of the car. A decent air gun should shift it. Could u not whip it round a garage near you? Theyl soon shift it for a fiver.
Dan
Built the purple peril!! Let the modifications begin!!
http://www.eastangliankitcars.co.uk
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dilley
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| posted on 2/4/06 at 07:22 PM |
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Try drilling the centre of the bolt, this will shrink it and make it a lot easier, also try tightening it, you may not move it but it will loosen the
threads when you try to undo it, I spent 7 years in the motor trade and people never use copper slip, (grease) and it makes life bloody awkward when
you come to strip something. DONT USE HEAT.
[Edited on 2/4/06 by dilley]
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 2/4/06 at 09:11 PM |
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Heat might be just what is needed at the 20XE crank pulley bolt is threadlocked into place, and most thread locking compounds lose strength above a
certain temperature. However, it would require an awfull lot of heat input which would undoubtedly knacker any oil seals etc.
I was never able to remove the one on my 16vGTE years back to replace a leaking seal, even the starter motor bodge failed. However, the 20XE
I'm using for my locost yielded fairly quickly to an air impact gun.
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NS Dev
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| posted on 3/4/06 at 08:29 AM |
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Heh heh!!
if they yield easily they have probably already been off and not retightened properly!
The bolt should be renewed, as believe it or not given its size, it's torque to yield apparently!!!
It's torqued to 250NM then 90deg!! I have NEVER managed to get that figure into one yet.
I have made a big reaction bar that bolts onto the ring of 6 M8 bolts that retains the front pulley, take the pulley off, bolt the bar on, then remove
the bolt, but it is insanely tight, by comparison they just fall off any other engine that I have touched.
Other recommendation is to buy a decent Britool impact torx socket, I have smashed several draper torx sockets on these crank bolts.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 3/4/06 at 11:07 AM |
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Have you ever heard of one comming loose? Just wondering why on earth they need to be so tight. Are the 8v engines the same?
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NS Dev
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| posted on 3/4/06 at 11:30 AM |
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Yea, have heard of 1 coming loose, and it totally destroys the engine normally!!
The oil pump inner gear is pinched up to a shoulder on the crank by the bolt and a spacer ring. The drive to the oil pump is then provided by this
clamping force NOT the two flats on the pump/crank.
If the bolt comes loose one of two things happen, usually the torsional vibration splits the oil pump inner gear, shatters the oil pump and wrecks the
engine, or sometimes the pump just burrs up on the crank flats and wrecks the crank.
If when you strip your engine the crank flats have been rounded at the edges, you know it has run with a loose bolt.
The 8 valve engines are different, same pump arrangement but smaller bolt and much lower torque setting.
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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Broadside Motorsport
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| posted on 3/4/06 at 05:08 PM |
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Ah now these are a beast to remove.
There are two ways:
1. Turn the engine over with a breaker bar attatched, (obviously remove fuel fuse and main ignition lead) only useful if the engine is still in the
car.
2. Get two mates to hold the engine steady, with the sump removed jam something (1/2" socket extension) in the crank, making sure not to use
bearing journals or big ends of con-rods to do this with. Then one of said friends holds the breaker bar on the bolt to be removed whilst the third
(or 4th if you're that popular) runs up the drive and proceeds to jump on the breaker bar. Instantly lose.
After every possible way that was the only way we found to get the crank bolt out of a red-top engine haha! Always use method 1 where possible.
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gregf27
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| posted on 5/4/06 at 04:58 PM |
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SUCCESS!!!!!
Finally got the bolt loose!!, took it to a friendly tyre services place and they got a really heavyduty air impact gun on it they usually use on
HGV's!!, the first time they tried it sheared the reducer socket, but they had a spare one and tried again, and hey presto! used a teng e20 torx
socket 1/2" drive. tipped the guy a £5 for a drink for his time , and he was made up, as was I!! many thanks for all the replies troops, I love
this website!
Greg
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