flak monkey
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| posted on 7/6/06 at 04:25 PM |
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Ridge reamer
Another question before I head off home. The bores of my pinto have a slight wear ridge at the top. Measured with a micrometer they are about 0.005 to
0.01mm. So not much, but can still be felt with your finger.
I have got a new set of rings as a matter of course, and the haynes book of lies shows that the wear in the bores is well within tolerance (ovality
and parallelism).
Question is do the ridges really need to be removed? If they do I dont fancy shelling out £40 for a tool to remove them at home (plus theres none on
ebay at all!), for what will be a one off job, and my local engine place wouldnt do it, they wanted to rebore the block, which theres no way i can
afford + the cost of pistons etc.
So: Do the ridges need removing? If so, anyone got a tool i can borrow to do the job with?
Cheers,
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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Surrey Dave
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| posted on 7/6/06 at 04:31 PM |
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You need to use a glazebuster/honing tool on the bore , for the new rings to bed in, this will remove some of the ridge, or a lot if you concentrate
on the top!!
Also when only replacing rings you can use a set with a recess on the top ring ( ridgedodger).
Otherwise new rings could get broken at high revs when they could touch the ridge edge..
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andyharding
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| posted on 7/6/06 at 04:59 PM |
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If you are fitting new rings you must get the bores honed or they won't bed in properly.
Ask your engine shop for a mild hone if you don't fancy doing it yourself , this should only cost £20 tops.
This will also remove the ridge which is more likely glaze than wear anyway.
Are you a Mac user or a retard?
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flak monkey
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| posted on 7/6/06 at 05:02 PM |
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I have given the bores a gentle rub with some 600 grit wet and dry to take the glaze off. Will get a tool to do a proper job when i get home and see
if that takes the ridge off as well. Think the engine place sells them for about £10.
Cheers,
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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gazza285
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| posted on 7/6/06 at 06:18 PM |
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I've got a ridge reamer here that I might be pursuaded to lend out.
DO NOT PUT ON KNOB OR BOLLOCKS!
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flak monkey
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| posted on 7/6/06 at 06:37 PM |
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Cheers  I will have a go with the glaze breaker and then give you a shout if it doesnt do the trick.
Thanks very much,
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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mookaloid
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| posted on 7/6/06 at 07:30 PM |
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I think I have read that you should use sandpaper (glass paper) not wet and dry because the bits of carborundum off the wet and dry can embed
themselves in the bore face causing rapid wear problems after reassembly.
I could be wrong.....
Anyway bore it out to 2.1 it'll be better then
[Edited on 7/6/06 by mookaloid]
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flak monkey
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| posted on 7/6/06 at 07:38 PM |
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I was quoted nearly £400 to do a 2.1 conversion including 2.25mm oversize pistons, bore and hone etc. Much as I would love to, that much money isnt
available at the moment 
Will use a proper glaze breaker on it. But dont they use mounted stones which are carborundum or something simlar anyway? The block is getting washed
in petrol before it gets rebuilt anyway to get any muck out.
David
Sera
http://www.motosera.com
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02GF74
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| posted on 8/6/06 at 09:43 AM |
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quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
I have given the bores a gentle rub with some 600 grit wet and dry to take the glaze off.
David
for prehistoric engines like pointo that is fine - look in Haynes as that shows you the angle for crosshatching.
For modern engine the procedure is more complex so wetndry won't get it right.
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