goodguydrew
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| posted on 1/9/06 at 02:01 AM |
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Ecotec with XE block & head?
A friend has given me an XE block fitted with a crank and pistons. He is also giving me a Coscast head. The rest is missing. 1.Can I get the rest of
the engine components from an Omega Ecotec and use the Omega gearbox? 2.What is the difference between the Xe and the Ecotec?3.Should I just stick
with an Ecotec, rwd layout or is there a big advantage with the XE? Thanks for any help.
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david walker
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| posted on 1/9/06 at 09:11 AM |
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The ecotec block and crank is basically the same as the old 8v cavalier block and crank. The XE block is nearly identical except it has the oil
valve/restricter near the top of the block feeding the head. The ecotec block can be modified to incorporate one of these but it's hassle.
The XE crank is heavier and stronger than the ecotec. The pistons on the XE fit on bushed rods and are fully floating. The Ecotec are press fit.
The piston configuration is different. The rest of the unit is similar but different if you get my gist.
If you have got the coscast head (better because they are never porous - no other benefit) then I would find an XE bottom end to fit it to. Far better
engine.
I don't know about gearboxes but the XE is a straight fit to the Omega box. Isn't the Omega box big? Aren't there propshaft issues?
Dave Walker, Race Engine Services - 07957 454659 or 01636 671277
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NS Dev
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| posted on 1/9/06 at 10:10 AM |
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what do you need, I have several full s/h XE bottom ends in bits in the workshop.
let me know if you think these may be of any use, could do with less clutter and more beer tokens!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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goodguydrew
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| posted on 1/9/06 at 10:41 AM |
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Thanks for the help.
1.I don't know if the Omega box will be too large, as I have still to construct the gearbox tunnel, so perhaps I can build it to fit?
2. I have only got the head, and block (fitted with the crank and pistons) and a "bag of pulley wheels", I really don't know what
else I have to aquire. I certainly need an oil pump and all the other ancilleries. Can anyone tell me what is directly transferable from the Ecotec,
e.g. pumps, clutches? I am assuming that I already have the "important bits" (stated above?)
3.What are the dimensions for a modified shallow sump?
4.If I fit Webbers, what jet sizes do I need? Thanks guys.
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david walker
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| posted on 1/9/06 at 11:07 AM |
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Best bet is to contact NS Dev and take him up on his offer. Really if you are going to utilise the XE head then you would be better to forget your
ecotec stuff. Most of it won't fit.
Take what you have to Nat's and let him advise you. He has loads of actual experience with these motors - as against those who read their Haynes
Manuals to recite what they have read on the net. You know what I mean!
Bet he'll be reasonable on price as well. It's usually the heads that command the price.
Dave Walker, Race Engine Services - 07957 454659 or 01636 671277
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NS Dev
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| posted on 1/9/06 at 02:11 PM |
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Yep, bits wise I have pretty much everything you will need, worst part is blocks which you already have. I have two spares but both will need rebores
really. All other parts available.
Not mad keen on posting etc but if you can get here I can let you know what you need and pretty much exchange for beer as I have just aquired another
good base engine so the spares are of ever decreasing use!
Worth pointing out that I have just paid £200 for a complete, 90,000 mile service historied (MOT just failed on brake lines, ball joints and CAT) test
driven L reg Cavalier SRI 16v (one of the odd late ones with the dizzyless 16v XE in it just before they swapped to ecotecs). If you are planning a
std engine rather than a base for a modified engine then you are better just to buy a complete running car.
The cavalier will yield around £100 worth of ebay bits and the remnants will weigh in for £50 ish so it works out as £50 for the engine in known good
order.
You'll spend £90 on gaskets putting an XE together so if you are going for a std engine it just doesn't make sense building one up from
parts.
Sorry to put it that way but as this forum is "locost" thought I'd better point out the cheap approach!
These sort of cars crop up all the time in local papers!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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ned
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| posted on 1/9/06 at 02:40 PM |
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on the flip side I spent around £170 on full gaskets, sealants, stretch bolts etc to completely rebuild an xe from component parts and somewhere near
the same figure on +2mm rebore and all new bearings throughout to suit a reground crank I already had. That's excluding all the performance
internals, so assuming you were just to reuse the standard rods/pistons/flywheel etc etc etc
beware, I've got yellow skin
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david walker
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| posted on 1/9/06 at 04:11 PM |
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The only issue I would have with that NS Dev is that the later engine - immediately pre ecotec will have the less than ideal front end - automatic
belt tensioners, different pulleys, covers etc. OK for a roadcar if refurbished with new parts but not the ideal starting point for potential upgrade
at later date.
Oh and won't it have that awful heavy flywheel arrangement fitted also?
[Edited on 1/9/06 by david walker]
Dave Walker, Race Engine Services - 07957 454659 or 01636 671277
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NS Dev
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| posted on 2/9/06 at 09:52 AM |
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Yep its got the other front end, but I have all the bits to swap it back to the "old type"
Good point on the flywheel, forgot about that entirely! (engine still has the F20 box attached!) Again not an issue as I have a couple of spare flat
ones, but very good point that I overlooked!!!
I fitted a late 8v 2.0 sri unit to my brother's manta road car and that had the auto tensioner etc. We binned the auto tensioner, PAS pump etc,
converted the existing alternator to a swinging bracket (just had to make a slotted arm) and then found a suitable polyvee belt the right length to
just drive the alternator alone. Made a nice setup for driving the road rally lights!!!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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goodguydrew
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| posted on 2/9/06 at 12:23 PM |
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Once again, good info.
1.So I guess I better start looking in the ads for a suitable engine doner.
2.That's a generous offer NS Dev. I may take you up on that. I kind of feel I have to use the XE parts I have, but I suppose that's not
too financially logical really.
3.Suppose I got an Ecotec Omega with gearbox, could I fit that with the standard induction squeezed under the standard locost bonnet?
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liam.mccaffrey
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| posted on 2/9/06 at 03:33 PM |
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as an aside, im using a 2lt ecotec with throttle boddies
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