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Author: Subject: rover v8 engine running probs
Julian B

posted on 3/9/06 at 02:31 PM Reply With Quote
rover v8 engine running probs

Hi all

I have a rover v8 that im trying to setup

I have got it to the stage where it runs for about 10 mins without any problems. As the temperature gets to about 80deg the engine becomes lumpier and eventually stalls. Trying to restart is difficult. Let it cool down and its all ok again. This only happens at tick over and you can get round it by blipping the throttle when it starts to get lumpy.

Any ideas

PS its running a webber 500

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Guinness

posted on 3/9/06 at 02:35 PM Reply With Quote
Sounds like the fuel is evaporating?

You've probably got sufficent heat build up in the ten minutes to do it. Would account for the difficult to start again too.

Darren W had this problem on his pintosaurous for a while.

(Sorry if this turns out to be rubbish, I'm a 1.1 litre BEC boy, not a 4 ltr CEC man!)

Cheers

Mike






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Andy S

posted on 3/9/06 at 02:58 PM Reply With Quote
What colour are the plugs ?
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froggy

posted on 3/9/06 at 03:21 PM Reply With Quote
is the carb new? if so then you will need to set the idle screws up to suit your engine as the weber is really a yank carb for 5litre v8,s have a look on rpi or dje sites for the basic settings, mine took a bit of tweaking to idle right but its soooo much better then the holley
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Paul (Notts)

posted on 3/9/06 at 03:28 PM Reply With Quote
havent reached the stage of starting mine yey () but some people have recomended that I fit a thermal spacer between the carb and the manifold to prevent fuel evaporation...

Paul

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Julian B

posted on 3/9/06 at 03:53 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks for all the info guys

I have in fact got a thermal spacer which raises the carb off the manifold by about an inch. The idle is set for abot 800 rpm and i have the timing set to 6 deg btdc.

I have just checked the colour of the plugs and they are quite carboned up (black) . Does this suggest its runnung to rich? How can i set the mixture without a hydrocarbon meter?

Thanks again

Julian B

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Andy S

posted on 3/9/06 at 05:28 PM Reply With Quote
From you described it sounds to me like the idle is running far too rich I asked about the plugs first just to satify this - its a bit like leaving the choke out - Warms up then cuts out - becasue its not a choke, when you blip the throttle the plugs clear a bit and the process of sooting up the plugs starts again.

I dont know enough about how the Weber 500 is set for idle but it sounds to me like you need to drop down a size on the jet if the idle mixture screw/ screws (again assuming ) are/is wound in enough.

Also check the timing is at the correct advance that you are getting a good fat spark

I guess thats its nice and easy to start from cold which is another indication that its too rich.

edit - The plugs are actually a very good -if basic - indicator for the way an engine is running - Its how it was done in the old days LOL hence the old film of racing mechanics twirling braces with a plug socket and paying close scrutiny to the look of the plug

Andrew

[Edited on 3/9/06 by Andy S]

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moggybloke

posted on 3/9/06 at 07:11 PM Reply With Quote
change the jets is the first thing these are available from rpi speak to them and they will give you the base setting for the mixture from what i can remember its right in and then 2 1/2 out
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moggybloke

posted on 3/9/06 at 07:13 PM Reply With Quote
also what rad are you using for the v8
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mark chandler

posted on 3/9/06 at 07:18 PM Reply With Quote
If using carbs then they should already have bimetallic strips which richen the mixture as the fuel bowl warms.

Assuming it was jetted okay previously then I suspect its a case of the manifold getting overly hot, this would be due to the water outlet between the carbs (8mm pipe to rad) being blocked.

Simply pull the pipe off if water flows then its okay, if not start exploring with a bit of welding rod or small drill bit. When blocked the water evaporates and boils within the heads and maniold so everything get far to hot.

Regards Mark

[Edited on 3/9/06 by mark chandler]

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moggybloke

posted on 3/9/06 at 07:50 PM Reply With Quote
what carbs use a bimetallic strip ive never seens this before on a weber
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02GF74

posted on 3/9/06 at 08:47 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by moggybloke
what carbs use a bimetallic strip


SU HIF.

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froggy

posted on 4/9/06 at 10:38 AM Reply With Quote
ive ran the weber on a 3.5 which is on the small side for the carb didnt need to touch the jets but wound both idle screws 3 1/2 turns to get the idle about right . if the car will sit stationary without going over 80 degrees then your cooling system is up to the job, if your on a 3.5 lump then you might want to move the accel pump linkeage to the lowest setting to avoid bogging too mine ran best at 4% co at 900rpm but it is easy to overfuel as the weber seems more suited to the 3.9 and 4.6 lumps
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MikeRJ

posted on 4/9/06 at 11:04 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by Andy S
edit - The plugs are actually a very good -if basic - indicator for the way an engine is running -


But only if the engine is being driven at normal speeds and temperatures. Having it idling from cold for ten minutes will almost certainly make the plugs show a rich mixture.

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Andy S

posted on 4/9/06 at 05:16 PM Reply With Quote
Doesnt really matter what the engine temperture or the running state - the plug will tell you what is happening if you know what you are looking at.

At idle it will indeed indicate a richer running mixture - this is what is required - However it will also tell you if this mixture is to rich or too weak. If you know what colour a 5:1 looks like in comparison to a 10:1

And all the better if you combine this with and understanding of heat range.

It takes a bit of effort thats all - like reading a map instead of just lumping a code in the GPS

Andrew

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