goodguydrew
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| posted on 9/9/06 at 02:45 PM |
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1300 Crossflow
Well, after much thinking about XE and Zetec I have ended up going for a 1300 Crossflow unit. After all, its in the spirit of Locost! I found a 60K
mile unit complete with gearbox from a MK2, I also found an axle from a 40K automatic 1.3 Mk1.
So I guess my progress down the road is going to be a bit more sedate than the rest of you. It's funny, but getting an engine and axle suddenly
makes the project feel like it's getting somewhere.
I noticed that the book dimensions are for a 1100 or 1300 Escort tranmission. So here is a few questions.
1. What changes to the tunnel would be required to future proof the chassis if I decide to fit a Type 9 behind a Zetec in the future?
2. Is the 1.6 Crossflow a taller unit?
3. Was there any unleaded version of the crossflow head made by Ford?
Any additional crossflow advice will be greatfully received. Thanks.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 9/9/06 at 03:48 PM |
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1. Don't know!
2. The 1600 block is about 1" or so taller than the 1300
3. No - you would have to get the head converted (£100 or so if you strip it down), or use additives.
The X-flow is an easy engine to work on, but it's worth getting a copy of the Peter Wallage book to help you along your way.
Just one caveat - if it turns out that the engine requires a lot of work then don't waste your money... go and get a working Zetec for under
£200 (probably much less). It's far more future-proof. (speaking as a keen x-flow owner!)
The only downside to the Zetec is that the complete engine is taller than the x-flow, if you include all the bolt-on bits. However, it is more modern
and much cheaper to tune.
David
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jonbeedle
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| posted on 9/9/06 at 04:06 PM |
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I have a 1300xflow. It runs well, it's easy to work on, bits are cheap and so is insurance and tax and it's easy by all accounts to fit a
1600 xflow later if you decide you want a bit more poke!
Good luck.
Cheers
Jon
"Everyone is entitled to an opinion however stupid!"
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procomp
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| posted on 9/9/06 at 06:33 PM |
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Hi tunnel wise if you make it an extra 1" wider on the drivers side and 2" wider on the passenger side you should be able to get the
crossflow and box further back and if you ever deside to put the zetec in you should still have plenty of room .
And dont for get to move the front to rear enginebay lower rail by the starter motor over to clear it.
And certinaly dont be woried about how slow a 1300 xflow is if you take a look at the times the locost racers achive with 85bhp it might suprise you
what can be achieved.
cheers matt
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joneh
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| posted on 9/9/06 at 07:38 PM |
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Ask big-wasa. He has a zetec in a book chassis.
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phad88
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 12:45 PM |
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David
The Peter Wallage book is it useful in the tuning section, is there alot useful tips to increase the bhp or is it just general rebuilding tips?
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 01:08 PM |
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It talks about tuning - cams, etc. - but its main use is in engine stripping & rebuilding.
There are 2 Wallage books as far as I know: one is a combined x-flow & Pinto book, and the other is x-flow only. It's worth getting the
x-flow only one if you can (but there's not a lot of difference really).
The only error I've spotted is when he talks about fitting the Valencia dizzy, where he gets 2 of the wires the wrong way round! Not a bad
achievement when there's only 3 wires in total...
Otherwise I completely rebuilt my x-flow using this book alongside the Haynes manual for a Mk2 Escort.
David
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MikeRJ
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| posted on 10/9/06 at 01:13 PM |
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I bought the book and thought it was a total waste of money. After reading some of David Vizards tuning bibles this was pretty much a joke. Whereas
DV will give detailed diagrams for port and combustion chamber mods, PW says something like 'gas flowing is a fascinating subject, but one best
left to professionals' and pretty much leaves it there.
Most of the tuning information is just generic stuff, there are virtualy no back to back tests of different tuning mods such as cam's, carbs
etc. which is where DV really excels.
The rebuild section is comprehensive with a good number of pictures, but it's such a basic and simple engine that the Haynes manual should be
adequate for the majority of people. However the author does seem to have a worrying fettish for graphite grease, recommending it's use on all
plain bearings during a rebuild, which doesn't sound a great idea to me.
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02GF74
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| posted on 11/9/06 at 09:07 AM |
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from what I know; type 9 is longer than the 4 speed box ..... but I can't see why you can't zetec to the 4 spd.
if you fit twin side draught carbs on 1300, you need to stick with the motrocraft dizzy (Ford) as there is not enough room to fit Bosch or Valencia
even with the side entry cap.
depending on your chassis, the 1300 goes in as is under the bonnet, the 1600, being taller may give bonnet clearance so eitehr a bulge, sump chop or
dry sumping (well, that is how ti is in mine).
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