Guinness
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 09:31 AM |
|
|
Remote installation of oil pressure switch / sender
As title really. I have two locations I can install sensors for my oil in the ZZR, one in the high pressure oil way cast into the sump and one below
the main crank.
My current / ex set up was to have the temperature sender in the main crank and the pressure switch and sender attached to a t-piece in the sump.
Now I have a remote mounting kit I trying to plan the installation. I am going to keep the oil temp sender in the main gallery (because it
doesn't effect flow and it fits between the engine and the bulkhead). I am then going to put one end of the remote kit into the boss on the
sump and fit the pressure switch and pressure sender remotely.
I am concerned about air locks / bubbles. Does the sender location have to be level / below the take off point? Or can I mount the sensor at the top
of the engine bay? Will it expell the air or just compress it? What happens when I change the oil. If the sender is below the take off point then
the old oil stays in? If it is above do I have to bleed it?
Cheers
Confused!?!?
|
|
|
|
|
mookaloid
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 09:40 AM |
|
|
Hi Mike
I used to have a mini with a clear plastic tube feeding the oil pressure gauge. It was mostly air before starting the engine, but when started you
could watch the air disappear (being compressed) while the oil ran up the tube to the gauge.
My guess therefore is that you don't have to worry about it.
Cheers
Mark
|
|
|
ned
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 11:22 AM |
|
|
Different engine of course but I'm running a remote braided line to a y-piece with both the warning light and gauge senders fitted. As
it's a pressurised line (well obviously!) I don't think the location whether it be above the level of the gallery should make a difference
to the reading you get, not worried about air locks either, how many callipary type gauges are there in use and how many of them have problems?
all imho..
Ned.
beware, I've got yellow skin
|
|
|
Guinness
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 11:39 AM |
|
|
Thanks for the reassurance guys. Just a bit paranoid!
I think I have a route that allows me to install it about level with the original sender, so I'll do that tonight. (Just to be on the safe
side!)
Mark, I'm not using the original switch in it's original position because I had a brass t-piece in there with the switch and sender
attached. It didn't last very long hard mounted and with the weight of the sender hanging from it. In fact it bust off! Whilst I'm sure
tapping the oil line banjo bolt is OK, I don't want to take the risk of vibration / impact breaking the sender off and me losing all my oil
(again) and running the big ends (again)!
This time I'm remote mounting it and bolting it down!
Cheers
Mike
|
|
|
Guinness
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 11:53 AM |
|
|
Mark
Just thinking about it in more detail, why choose the oil cooler line to tap?
As I understand it this is how it works:-
The pump on the ZZR is a two chamber design, and the sump is divided into two parts. One side of the pump lifts the oil from the deep part of the
sump, through the filter, then forces it along the I pipe, which in turn feeds the main bearings, via the J pipe, runs up through the casting to
lubricate the gearbox / alternator / starter shaft and the external feeds lube the cams / head and cllutch areas. This runs back down into the
shallow part of the sump, where it goes through the mesh filter into the bowl, through the second part of the pump and off to the cooler. The cooler
then returns into the deep part of the sump.
I could be wrong about this, but I have studied it for a long while now.
So if your oil pressure sender is in the oil cooler line, all you are checking is the pressure the pump can build up against the restriction in the
cooler?
Mike
|
|
|
Guinness
|
| posted on 22/9/06 at 02:19 PM |
|
|
Right, got your thinking now!
Cheers
Mike
|
|
|
