David Jenkins
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| posted on 6/10/06 at 08:29 AM |
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Silencer!
I must be getting old... I'm finding that my current silencer is too noisy - it's annoying me, let alone my neighbours! It's a
Chromerzone 7-style system, and looking inside I can see that it's still got the necessary packing. At my SVA I only passed the noise test by
1db and it's got louder since. What I really want is something that's half-way in noise level between what I've got and a
tin-top.
As I'm not too bothered about ultimate performance I wouldn't mind swapping a few BHP for a quieter life, so I was thinking of making my
own silencer. Trouble is, I don't know which factor would really reduce the noise level.
I could copy the way tin-top silencers are built, or I could make a bigger through-pipe type with extra wadding.
I don't want to use a regular car one as they look grotty - they are only meant to go under a car, after all - so anyone got some bright
ideas?
David
[Edited on 6/10/06 by David Jenkins]
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mark chandler
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| posted on 6/10/06 at 08:36 AM |
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Standard bike can off of Ebay, R1, GSXR1000 etc, any big bike that feeds 4 into 1.
These are baffled rather than resonant tubes (what you have) so will be relatively quiet.
+ £20 and postage sorts it.
Regards Mark
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NS Dev
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| posted on 6/10/06 at 08:39 AM |
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right-ho, I've looked into this one a bit in the past, and there are a few options.
I'd go for a straight though design for simplicity and ease of re-packing.
With this silencer basically bigger and longer is quieter.
Get some stainless perforated tube (Milner offroad do it) of whatever bore you need. Silencer ends can be made from a variety of proprietary stainless
culinary items, balti dishes being a cheap and effective option, with suitable modification.
The outer can either be rolled from stainless or ally sheet, or you can use stainless steel flue tubing of the right diameter (5", 6",
7" or 8"
Use stainless steel wool wired around the centre tube and then pack the glasspack around this, then rivet the outer onto the end cap at the open
end.
brief description cos I know you won't be short of your own ideas or ability!
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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GeoffT
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| posted on 6/10/06 at 08:51 AM |
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I've used a Yamaha R1 silencer, and it's as quiet as you'll ever want. Usually cheap and plentiful on ebay.
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smart51
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| posted on 6/10/06 at 09:19 AM |
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I swaped my 24" x 5" silencer for a 28" x 6" can and lost around 5dB as measured with my uncalibrated meter. I got it from
the kit car workshop. It was reasonably priced as it is unpolished stainless. My only complaing was that it was supposed to be 30" long.
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 6/10/06 at 12:00 PM |
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I guess that size is important (ooer missus!) 'cos my current silencer is very small - probably 16" long and about 5" diameter.
Looks like the first possible option is to go bigger... (ooer again!)
David
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907
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| posted on 6/10/06 at 03:24 PM |
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Hi David,
If you wanted to try a bike can, I have the T/Ace one that Jonbeedle borrowed for his sva.
It fits 2" pipe.
Paul G
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David Jenkins
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| posted on 6/10/06 at 08:15 PM |
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I'll be in touch... 
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tul214
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| posted on 7/10/06 at 11:43 AM |
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Guys,
My silencer is also knackered/loud and would like to try an R1 can. However, this maybe a stupid question...but how do you make the inlet side
straight? as it looks like the origional link pipe goes into the can at an angle.
1.6 Raw Super6 sold
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smart51
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| posted on 7/10/06 at 01:00 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by tul214
Guys,
My silencer is also knackered/loud and would like to try an R1 can. However, this maybe a stupid question...but how do you make the inlet side
straight? as it looks like the origional link pipe goes into the can at an angle.
Cut the pipe off close to the can. cut slots in it so that you can tighten it up with a clamp
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