the_fbi
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| posted on 22/12/06 at 09:33 PM |
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Blade very slow to turn over
I thought the issue earlier today was the battery not being charged enough. It powerd the lights OK (one headlight is connected) even on main beam yet
wouldn't turn over the engine for more than 1/2 rev at a time.
So the last 4 hours have been spent with the charger on there. The charger was no longer charging but in its "maintenance/conditioning"
cycle which means its just keeping it topped up.
I can't read the battery size (Varta bike type) as its against a chassis rail, but I think it'll be a 12Ah but maybe only a 10.
Still the engine struggles to turn over. Plugs out and it does manage a revolution, but it struggles.
Starter motor comes straight from the starter relay with some heavy cable and although I've not checked what cable goes from the battery to the
relay I'd expect it to be OK.
Engine isn't separately earthed but its got about 5 large bolts onto the chassis and the chassis has a nice large earth strap which is 4"
long from the battery onto the steering rack brackets.
One strange thing, is that one the starter button is pressed the engine starts turning very slowly, but after a quarter of a second when its really
straining, the sidelight comes on dimly. I'm trying to think of reasons why it could, and the only thing which I can think is that the polarity
of the chassis is changing.
How can that be? A short would explain both poor cranking and the reverse polarity but thats too weird when it all appears to work OK.
The battery may well be the issue as its been over a year since it was used and I know these bike batteries are weird.
Clearly in the morning I'll have either a charged or a dead battery and I can stick on a car one instead to see what happens.
Other ideas/thoughts appreciated.
ta
Chris
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ruskino80
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| posted on 22/12/06 at 09:41 PM |
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sounds like battery to me-try it with some jump leads of the tt.
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the_fbi
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| posted on 22/12/06 at 09:46 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ruskino80
sounds like battery to me-try it with some jump leads of the tt.
I'm thinking that way too, although when I tried it this afternoon it did manage about 5 revs before going slow, so i thought it was just low,
not killed 
It is very cold outside, perhaps she'll perk up after an overnight charge and a warmer morning.
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esn163
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| posted on 22/12/06 at 09:56 PM |
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Hi
Your symptoms sound the same as ours did when our battery was playing up gave ours a good charge and all was well again.
HTH
Ed
Indy Build Photos
** Build pages **
Photo Bucket Pics
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BenB
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| posted on 22/12/06 at 10:31 PM |
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I agree- knackered battery (will rise to full voltage quickly on charge but effectively be carrying no amphours)
Jump it off a big fat car battery in good nick.
Note- jump it with the car off (ie not running). Jumping with a bike engine with a running car can be bad mojo.... one burnt out voltage
regulator....
Should do the trick...
Unless it's seriously cold where you are and the oils gone to sludge!!!
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the_fbi
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| posted on 22/12/06 at 11:05 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by BenB
Unless it's seriously cold where you are and the oils gone to sludge!!!
It was about 0'C when I tried this evening, and about 4 when I tried in the afternoon.
Thanks for the tip on the non-running car.
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ChrisGamlin
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| posted on 22/12/06 at 11:34 PM |
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Id double check the engine earthing, I had the same thing on my blade when I forgot to reattach the engine earth strap even though it was solidly
bolted into the chassis
Just run a jump lead from the engine directly to the -ve battery terminal and see if it improves.
[Edited on 22/12/06 by ChrisGamlin]
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the_fbi
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| posted on 22/12/06 at 11:53 PM |
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quote:
Originally posted by ChrisGamlin
Id double check the engine earthing, I had the same thing on my blade when I forgot to reattach the engine earth strap even though it was solidly
bolted into the chassis
Where is/should the normal engine earth bolt.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 22/12/06 at 11:55 PM |
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Anywhere you like on the bloke/box casings. It just needs a dedicated link from block to earth.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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mkblade
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 08:38 AM |
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hi
ive had this problem with my blade engine tried to charge the battery for over a day but still would not turn over.the battery totally dead you can
get them on ebay delivered for about 25 pound also try a jump lead (the black one) connect it to the earth on the battery terminal, connect the other
end to a good earth point on the engine see if that is any better,
simon
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the_fbi
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 11:05 AM |
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Turns out the battery is fine, ran a jump lead to the block and -ve and turns over great.
Only problem now is no spark......
New thread coming.
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GeoffB
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 11:07 AM |
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Almost certain new battery needed,especially if its not been used in a year. i had the same thing with my blade battery..put it on charge and the
charge display showed all the right things to say it was in tip top condition..checked it woth meter all ok..but wouldnt do a lot to start
engine..hadnt used it for about 6 months and thought i had done something to
wiring. try a new battery and it was sweet as a sweet nut
think it was something to do with the amp out put of the battery rather than the volts as i think it was not putting any amps to fire the motor
all the best
geoff
ol b*llocks must type faster.
[Edited on 23/12/06 by GeoffB]
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Catpuss
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 11:26 AM |
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As others said. Typical fucked bike battery.
I don't know what it is about bike bttys but they don't seem to last much over a couple years. When they do go its often a very rapid
decline.
There was something I read in Car Mechanics in the newsagent yesterday that they are predicting a car (and presumably bike) battery shortage some time
shortly in the new year. Didn't read much about why, probably China are using all the materials to make those toys you get in kids meals at the
burger joints.
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zetec7
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| posted on 23/12/06 at 03:53 PM |
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I've been told that the reason bike batteries don't last long is because of the small volume of electrolyte in them (compared to a car
battery), and the plates in them tend to sufate very quickly. If you look down the holes and see a white, crusty deposit on the plates, that's
sulfate...and the battery is finished. I've heard of some additive that's supposed to remove sulfation and rejuvenate the battery, but
I've never heard of anybody having any success with this. All of the aforementioned aside, I tend to get 5-6 years of use out of batteries in
my Kawasaki Concours ZG1000...
http://www.freewebs.com/zetec7/
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