Jonte
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| posted on 11/1/07 at 02:21 PM |
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Propshaft protection?
Anyone here made any propshaft protection thingys (don´t know what to call it  ) to prevent the propshaft rotating freely if it get loose. U know if
it breaks at either end.
If you have done it, please post a pic
cheers
Click it
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macnab
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| posted on 11/1/07 at 02:30 PM |
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In the book it describes a simple diagonal bar to block the shaft. To be honest I thought that was naff.
I'd prefer a piece of 2mm plate welded to either side of the tunnel.
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macnab
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| posted on 11/1/07 at 02:44 PM |
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Oh well here is a horrible story, not sure if its true but it was my traffic cop neighbour that told me it.
Apparently there was a smash involving an escort van, one of the older ones with rear wheel drive.
Its nose was smashed in big style in another car and unfortunately the engine was still running and going full throttle. Due to the damage (I think
the driver was dead) they could not get the vans engine stopped. What was clear had happened is that the propshaft had snapped at the diff and had
broken through the vans rear floor. Now free and flailing about it was battering around inside the back like a propeller.
Here’s the nasty bit…
Apparently there had been 3 workers in the back at the time, now basically blended.
Oh Dear…
[Edited on 11/1/07 by macnab]
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dr-fastlane
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| posted on 11/1/07 at 04:54 PM |
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A piece of 2mm steel plate would not do the job. That’s as thick as the floor of the Escort Van Macnab told about.
Two pieces op 5 or 6 mm bar, bend in a U shape welded into the chassis. With the propshaft rotating free inside would be better. Like some american
musclecars have. Or weld some more diagonal tubes into the transmission tunnel.
[Edited on 11/1/07 by dr-fastlane]
[Edited on 11/1/07 by dr-fastlane]
------------------------------
I have not failed once. I have successfully found ways that will not work!
https://www.motor-forum.nl/threads/hardtail-dragstyle-project.343482/
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NS Dev
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| posted on 11/1/07 at 05:10 PM |
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or make the prop so it doesn't break
Retro RWD is the way forward...........automotive fabrication, car restoration, sheetmetal work, engine conversion
retro car restoration and tuning
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JoelP
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| posted on 11/1/07 at 06:33 PM |
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the closer to its axis you constrain it, the less forceful the flailing is. Or as Nat says, get it specced correct and balanced, job done.
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DIY Si
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| posted on 11/1/07 at 06:34 PM |
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You could always place two rings of steel in the tunnel if really bothered to restrain the prop. That way it would only move by about an 1" or
so.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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ayoungman
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| posted on 11/1/07 at 10:15 PM |
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Macnab, ever thought of writing childrens bedtime stories ? .........just a thought
"just like that !"
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macnab
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| posted on 11/1/07 at 10:21 PM |
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Actually I was looking at doing kids stories.
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Peteff
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| posted on 12/1/07 at 12:24 AM |
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What, like Jackanory?
yours, Pete
I went into the RSPCA office the other day. It was so small you could hardly swing a cat in there.
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DarrenW
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| posted on 12/1/07 at 09:22 AM |
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or Macanory
What do production cars do to constrain the prop. There are loads of rear wheel drive cars out there that never have a problem. i had mine made
professionally with all new parts so im confident it will be OK (same company that made all of the drivetrain gear for the newest batman car). I guess
the risk on our cars is lessened due to the lower mileages etc. I know props are not exactly sexy and therefore considered a necessary evil expense
but its just not worth risking it imho.
Nice story about the escort van btw Certainly illustrates the point.
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