PeterW
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posted on 12/1/07 at 08:23 PM |
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How hot does a head get...??
OK
Need an answer, preferably technically correct, to a question about head temperatures.
How hot does the inlet face of a pinto head get...? I know some of the Rovers use a plastic manifold, and I may have a way to produce limited runs of
injected/cast plastic manifolds, but only if I can get the right material for the temperature.
So, anyone know...??
Cheers
Pete
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macnab
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| posted on 12/1/07 at 08:51 PM |
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Ok so this is not a particularly technical response but since the water in the system is near boiling point inside the head and not flashing into
steam. The outside surface I would imagine would be slightly cooler and at a stab in the dark I’d suggest about 90 C sounds right. Most plastics can
take over 110 C so I see no problem.
Why not get a sample and bolt it to a cylinder head and see what happens…
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stevebubs
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| posted on 12/1/07 at 09:01 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by macnab
Ok so this is not a particularly technical response but since the water in the system is near boiling point inside the head and not flashing into
steam. The outside surface I would imagine would be slightly cooler and at a stab in the dark I’d suggest about 90 C sounds right. Most plastics can
take over 110 C so I see no problem.
Why not get a sample and bolt it to a cylinder head and see what happens…
Your thinking is not strictly true as pressure of the system will raise the boiling point of the water.
Inlet ports are significantly cooler than exhaust ports, though...
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DIY Si
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| posted on 12/1/07 at 09:01 PM |
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If the pinto is of a Xflow type, then the inlet side will be cooler than it might otherwise be. The coolant (if mixed correctly) may well not boil
until it gets to 110-115 ºC, so the head may eventually reach a temp very close to this. It may also depend upon carbs vs injection. Injection will be
hotter due to having a dry manifold. The carbs will have fuel in the air to aid cooling slightly. I'd still guess 120 ºC as a maximum.
“Let your plans be dark and as impenetratable as night, and when you move, fall like a thunderbolt.”
Sun Tzu, The Art of War
My new blog: http://spritecave.blogspot.co.uk/
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tks
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| posted on 12/1/07 at 09:34 PM |
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yeah
saying that i would use a material wich could withstand 130degrees!
wy? because the last thing you want is that your are without a inlet not??
saying that the the total engine will die if it ever gets that hot on the inlet traject..
TKs
The above comments are always meant to be from the above persons perspective.
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Confused but excited.
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| posted on 12/1/07 at 10:32 PM |
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I've never tried it on a car but years ago I used TUFNOL (a phenolic resin laminate) for carb spacers on motorbikes. Might be worth a try,
unless anyone on here knows better.
Tell them about the bent treacle edges!
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chriscook
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| posted on 13/1/07 at 10:14 AM |
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Have done a bit of testing on a few plastic inlet manifolds. Wasn't anything to do with temperatures but the most exciting test to create an
explosion in the manifold to simulate a backfire. I would suggest you want to consider such a load case when you are working out how thick to make the
material.
Chris
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novacaine
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| posted on 19/1/07 at 08:27 PM |
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quote: Originally posted by stevebubs
[Your thinking is not strictly true as pressure of the system will raise the boiling point of the water.
Inlet ports are significantly cooler than exhaust ports, though...
not all cooling systems are presurised that much, only realy on old engines tho...i might be wrong tho...
matt
And you run and you run to catch up with the sun but its sinking, Racing around to come up behind you again, the sun is the same in a relative way but
your older, shorter of breath and one day closer to death
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