ghuncha
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| posted on 23/2/07 at 02:24 PM |
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buying engine
atlast i have decided to come out of the planning phase and start gathering parts.... so first of all i am going to buy an engine.
i have decided to get 4age 20(toyota) motor, blacktop beacause it has map compared to afm in silvertop as afm creates problem in tight spaces....
as the motor will be second hand so i want suggestions on how to check its condition....
btw i am going to buy it this weekend so please replies within 15 hours will be appriciated...
thanks
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macnab
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| posted on 23/2/07 at 02:37 PM |
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quote:
4age 20(toyota) motor, blacktop beacause it has map compared to afm in silvertop as afm creates problem in tight spaces....
what's he on about??? no idea...
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thomas4age
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| posted on 23/2/07 at 02:40 PM |
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Hey Guncha
If you have found a complete package, ie engine and ECU your very lucky (ecu's are hard to find over here in europe)
anyway check for:
oil leak at the oilpump housing, it's hard to see because the timingbelt cover is in the way but try to see if it's wet. (front oil seal
is quite some work to replace)
oil leak at distributor hole at the back of the head (easy one to fix btw just an O-ring)
oil leak at VVT selonoid (also easy to fix just an o-ring)
more importand, look at the pully's in front of the engine closley, if there are any cracks in them or pieces of the outer parts broken, that is
an indication of the pully being pulled with an inaproprieate tool. dammaged pulley's will eat away drivebelts at an enourmous rate, and they
can be quite expensive to replace.
feel if there's any play on the waterpump pulley (take the belt of first) they're not expensive but do break from time to time.
take the cam cover off the engine and see how it looks like underneath, if there's exesive black sludge or even hard black stuff on the cams and
cambearing bolts WALK AWAY!!! there's only one these baby don't like and that's wrong oil or old oil, they normaly are very clean
underneath the covers.
if you can run a compression test factory specs say 11:1 is new
if you can run it and listen for clonck noises using a stehtoscoop bigends are then beybey.
also see if the VVT system is working you should be able to hear and feel it do it's thing.
good luck, and let us know what happens!
my 20v is running great, good choice!
regards Thomas
If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.
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ghuncha
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| posted on 23/2/07 at 06:46 PM |
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@thomas4age
thanks for your help........
@macnab
well as per my info for an afm efi system you have to put afm, and it takes quiet a bit spcae, in map you can even put the filter anyway beore the
throrttlebody..
@macnab
well as i dont know that much about efi so sticking with the stock setup of engine... btw can you please briefly describe how can ve run efi without
afm or map...thanks
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ghuncha
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| posted on 24/2/07 at 04:56 PM |
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quote:
I'm a little peeved macnab got the credit for my last info though ......
...
well saw a couple of motors today... will go tomorrow and finalose the deal... getting a full stock setup of 4a-ge blacktop (map)....
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thomas4age
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| posted on 25/2/07 at 02:53 PM |
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Hey Guncha and Calvinix,
When you just ditch the AFM on the silvertop engine, or indeed what ever toyota ECU you'll find, it will instatly resort to limp home mode. and
that means NO Power whatsoever, no timing advance also,stays at 10btdc static.
Guncha wanted to run the original ECU right?
if you ise a AFM silvertop.... Good luk you won't find the space to store the airbox It's BIG.
Blacktop doesn't need the airbox.
Guncha If you want Ecu wiring drawings and pinout info, PM me.
grtz Thomas
If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.
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