Jumbo
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| posted on 24/9/03 at 04:02 PM |
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Engine Oil
What's the best engine oil to use for a 1600 xflow?
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rell
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| posted on 24/9/03 at 04:07 PM |
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buy a semi sintetic oil and then add active8 oil aditive very very goog stuf done tests with it seems about the best adative ive used 
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D Beddows
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| posted on 24/9/03 at 05:34 PM |
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No question, Valvoline racing 20w50. No, you probably wont find it at your local Halfords but it's well worth a bit of a hunt (Burtonpower sells
it if you realy can't find it localy).
Why? it's a higher performance version of what the engine was originaly designed to use (modern oils and the tolerences they are designed to
were a twinkle in someones eye at the time) , synthetics and semi synthetics are wonderful oils in the right engines and you may get a slightly higher
top speed and better fuel economy if you use one BUT I'll bet you it'll leak oil like a bugger and engine torque will suffer as well.
'Experts' are probably about to decend on this post to tell you I'm talking b**ocks, if you trust me though you'll have a
much nicer car to drive 
Cheers
Dave
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rell
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| posted on 24/9/03 at 06:08 PM |
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b**ocks
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D Beddows
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| posted on 24/9/03 at 07:13 PM |
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well.. I'm trying to help someone out, what about you?
So....in what way exactly do your messages help someone building a car rell and gazza? (is stimpy on holiday btw?)
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D Beddows
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| posted on 24/9/03 at 08:20 PM |
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But you didn't post a usefull reply regarding this topic did you!! oh no, taking the p*ss was much easier
B****cks is obviously the correct spelling.
Welcoming? Welcoming! your're a top expert at that then?
reply if you want, I wont, I just feel sorry for Jumbo who asked the question in the first place and who must think that we're all a bunch of
sad bs'tards
cheers
dave
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Mark Allanson
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| posted on 24/9/03 at 08:36 PM |
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Good oil choice is supposed to prevent friction, not start it.
If you can keep you head, whilst all others around you are losing theirs, you are not fully aware of the situation
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david walker
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| posted on 24/9/03 at 08:37 PM |
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OK, so what tests have you carried out Rell? Please publish the results for us all to see.
What's with this thing about different tolerances and different oils? Viscosity / multigrade oils are all about dealing with bearing clearances,
hydraulic lifters etc. The make up of the oil be it mineral or synthetic (or a mixture of both, which is what semi-synthetic is) is a different matter
altogether.
A 5/20 synthetic is obviously going to leak easier than a 20/50 mineral isn't it? A 15/40 synthetic will leak no more than the mineral of the
same grade.
A tribologist friend explanied to me at one time that on an "equal quality" basis, synthetic had better lubrication qualities only at
extremely high temperatures as in really hard worked race cars (not the things that we drive). It had a slightly longer "life" also but at
the end of its life degraded very rapidly when compared with mineral - which degraded much more slowly. The useful life of both oil types is the
same.
By "equal quality", there is an ISO (or is it SAE) code designated to all oils, but can't remember how the letters run. Valvoline
Racing is at the top end of the scale but so are many more, much cheaper oils.
Dave Walker, Race Engine Services - 07957 454659 or 01636 671277
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Viper
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| posted on 24/9/03 at 10:05 PM |
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Mobil 1
nuff said.
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D Beddows
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| posted on 24/9/03 at 10:10 PM |
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Yeah, ok, I know I said I wouldn't post again but....... in the real world I drive a fairly ancient Saab 9000 and there was a good deal on
Mobil 1 at my local Partco - bought a couple of bottles, changed the oil and filter after every 3000 miles etc etc and yup, a previously oil tight
engine started leaking like a sieve......my mistake and to be honest it was bound to happen with an old engine BUT I got sooooo bored with the oil
leak problem that I recently went back to standard good quality mineral oil (same filter changes etc) and errr well, we don't have quite the mpg
or possibly as much top end but we have torque!! (and no leaks) and a much nicer car to drive
It's not scientific (and I CAN do that) but it just seems to work, tried it on our race cars too and although you can't realy see it on a
dyno it just 'feels' better.
Cheers
Dave
Modern Zetecs, bike engines etc etc are a different kettle of fish mind you!
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DaveFJ
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| posted on 25/9/03 at 08:24 AM |
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Synthetic seals must be used with synthetic oil else it will start to leak - the oil destroys 'natural' seals.
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rell
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| posted on 25/9/03 at 09:57 AM |
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had a electric motor runing a pease of cast iron with a bearing outer race of a old bearing pressing on it i did this buy mounting it on length of
angle iron.
On the end of the angle i hung 100kg.
The bottom of the cast iron was placed in a bath of oil (heated) and ran it.
untill i started to get pick up on the serface.
the test was for what was the best adative but i did run sinthetic, semi and strate mineral oil and there was very little differance between them
with the active8 was added (wynns xtreme came second and then slick50).
sorry if i upset eney one it is but playfull banter.
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SteveO
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| posted on 25/9/03 at 10:01 AM |
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Major Difference is synthetics are not petroleum based.
Key Advantages:
Volitility: Synthetics do not evaporate as readilly as Petro. based. Usually, synthetic lubricants are based on 1 molecule with a flat distillation
curve.
Better viscosity versus temperature behavior: a)Thin less as they get hot, b) Thicken less as they cool
better oxidation stability
Synthetic Oil has 10% better heat transfer than Petrolium based lubricants
If you really want to read more then got to the link
http://www.cobra-replica.co.uk/html/cobra_32.shtml
Steve
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locoboy
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| posted on 25/9/03 at 10:33 AM |
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If you want to get really sad an technical about your oils then try to get hold of the car mechanics magazine from a few months ago, they ran a 4 page
article discussing the pro's and con's of all the diffeing types of oil and also their internaitonal ID numbers explaining the grade and
all the other guff.
I got bored about 1 page in and didnt read any more, so cant contribute to your debate.
Col
ATB
Locoboy
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rell
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| posted on 25/9/03 at 11:43 AM |
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Yes i am very sad and would like a read of it. If eney one has a copy can thay scan it in and post it please  
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Jumbo
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| posted on 25/9/03 at 04:41 PM |
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Engine Oil
Boy oh boy, what have I started here, talk about hand bags. Firstly thanks everyone for there input, the funny thing is all I wanted to know is either
15/40 or 20/40, I use synthetic oil in the Zetec engine in the Escort but didn't really think it needed in the xflow.
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Rob Lane
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| posted on 25/9/03 at 05:01 PM |
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Save your money, don't use synthetic in a Xflow it will leak like a bugger.
The seals etc are just not designed for it. Especially the timing case seals, sump to case and around pulley.
Buy 'Normal' Castrol GTX, that will do nicely and should cost about third of a synthetic. So 3 oil changes per synthetic cost!
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zetec
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| posted on 25/9/03 at 08:09 PM |
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As for Zetec oil use the Ford specific one, cheap and designed to stop the valves from sticking 5-30w (I think). Recomended by Dunnel who specialise
in tuning Zetecs.
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