rumplitter
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 11:05 AM |
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Anyone else running a B18C4 Honda Engine? Question on how to plumb it in!
Question on how to plumb it in!
I've got a B18C4 engine as a mid engine drive.
Looking to put a passat rad in the front with 2 main alli tubes down the centre to connect front to back but I'm unsure as to how to plumb it all
in, including a header tank at the rear (above the engine)
What have others done?
 
Rescued attachment 04_05_07 007.jpg
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/MiniMojoProject.JPG
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thomas4age
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 11:22 AM |
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I'll be at baukes place this evening he has the same layout coolant wise (d/b16) engine in his mojo,
I'll look it up for you and report back asap. from memory of building it was dead easy.
btw there's a bloke in holland who's building the exact same thing, mojo/riot/striker combination chassis of jeremy, and honda B18 engine,
with a standard steel minibody on it,
he has a FWD mini B18 himself, and is building this midengined viariant with his girlfriend who is going to drive it in the end...... (I could only
whish)
he won the dutch drag contest series 2 years back with his standard b18 powered mini, that thing realy flies.
Grtz Thomas
If Lucas made guns, Wars wouldn't start either.
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BenB
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 11:23 AM |
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Not sure on the plumbing but are you totally happy with the harness mounts? It appears all the force acting through the lever arm acts upon the weld
itself in a bending action....... In a rapid deceleration there will easily be 400kg+ on those harnesses when deceleration G forces are taken into
account.....
You could make a double height piece and put it behind the square section tube then weld it top and bottom. Then any force would have a leverage
advantage.
IE
I
I
--0 harness mount
I
I
*------I
II . . . I * = weld
II . . . I
II . . . I
*I-----I
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Mr Whippy
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 12:15 PM |
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same comment about the mounts, would bend in a crash and I doubt the tester would past that.
Fame is when your old car is plastered all over the internet
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rumplitter
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 01:31 PM |
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are you sure?
i had to bend one back after tacking it in place, took me ages with a lump hammer!
now welded both sides
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/MiniMojoProject.JPG
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rumplitter
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 07:57 PM |
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mounts?
Not good enough?
 
Rescued attachment 09_05_07 001.jpg
http://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/upload/MiniMojoProject.JPG
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BenB
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 10:52 PM |
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Not strong enough for me!!!!!!
Average lump hammer is what- 10kg. You reckon you can get 40G on it????
400kg is a hell of a lot of force.
[Edited on 20/1/08 by BenB]
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iank
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| posted on 16/1/08 at 11:44 PM |
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Seatbelt anchorage needs to take over 1.5 tonnes (for a 75kg person) according to the SVA manual. They have plenty of information in the book (even
the pdf rip-offs) on the requirements, but little in the way of detail on what will/won't pass.
On the bright side I don't think it will be a terribly hard problem to fix at this stage, but it might be worth talking to an SVA inspector at
your local station on what they would want to see. It's possible it's as simple as a bunch of triangular gussets at strategic points
would be enough.
For the cooling I'd expect it to be plumbed as in the donor except with much longer pipes between the rad and the rest of the car with the
heater take-offs being joined together rather than blocked (assuming you won't be needing a heater). So long as there is a way to bleed both
ends it shouldn't be a problem - do you have a riot build manual? I'd expect it to cover such things.
--
Never argue with an idiot. They drag you down to their level, then beat you with experience.
Anonymous
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