Nickp
|
| posted on 18/6/15 at 05:24 PM |
|
|
Floor questions?
This is my first kit build and therefore my first floor fixing attempt. I've done some searching on here and there appears to be no right or
wrong way but many variations to suit the different cars and uses.
My car's a Haynes that's getting a BMW M52 for road and track and I'm not aiming for ultimate lightness but do want to get this
right as it's my @rse sat on it.
I've got a load of steel panels free from work so am going to use this. It's about 1.2mm thick and has what looks like powder coating on
it. I've decided to bond and rivet rather than weld, I think. Bond with sikaflex or tigerseal and rivet with 4mm stainless rivets (4.0mm or
4.2mm drill?) at 50mm spacing?
I was thinking off welding in a 25x3mm bar across for the seats front mounting bolts to prevent any flex, or is that total overkill?
The chassis currently has a red oxide primer on it that was put on for while it was stored. Should I clean back to bare metal before bonding it? Leave
as is? Or paint it first? I think I'll leave the coating on the steel panel, seems daft to remove that?
Thanks in advance,
Nick
|
|
|
|
|
hizzi
|
| posted on 18/6/15 at 05:37 PM |
|
|
i have just been through the same process, after asking lots on different forums and looking at a couple i opted to weld a steel floor in, yes it
makes it heavier but the chassis is much more rigid, when you look at the haynes design there is lots of triangulation front and back and even across
the way but the middle seating area seems weak to me. i have a one piece floor right across the tunnel as well
|
|
|
jacko
|
| posted on 18/6/15 at 05:43 PM |
|
|
If you are not to bothered about weight i would use what you have and fit is as you say as for paint if the chassis is not rusty jjust give it a
light rub [ not though the paint ]and bond and rivet
Also put a bead of sealer round the inside to stop water getting between chassis and floor
|
|
|
Nickp
|
| posted on 18/6/15 at 05:44 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by hizzi
i have just been through the same process, after asking lots on different forums and looking at a couple i opted to weld a steel floor in, yes it
makes it heavier but the chassis is much more rigid, when you look at the haynes design there is lots of triangulation front and back and even across
the way but the middle seating area seems weak to me. i have a one piece floor right across the tunnel as well
I had the same thought the other day about the seating area, and if it was t-boned!! My other thought was 2 x 1" box sections across the
chassis at the front and rear of the seat mountings. Surely that'd make it a bit less crush-able in a side impact?
|
|
|
Nickp
|
| posted on 18/6/15 at 07:26 PM |
|
|
Is this the same as Tiger Seal?
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p67949
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 19/6/15 at 10:45 AM |
|
|
I've just this minute finished fixing the floor to my Tiger. Silkaflex along chassis rails and Rivets every 40 - 50mm depending on chassis
position, leaving the outer rails with just a couple of rivets and a few clamps (will be riveted alond this edge when the body goes on).
|
|
|
Nickp
|
| posted on 22/6/15 at 12:04 PM |
|
|
Settled on a single welded in brace at the front of the seats to prevent any potential flexing in the middle of the floor and protect the leading edge
of my arse!!
One floor panel cut to size, just waiting for the 4mm stainless rivets to arrive-
|
|
|
cliftyhanger
|
| posted on 22/6/15 at 12:21 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Nickp
Is this the same as Tiger Seal?
http://www.toolstation.com/shop/p67949
Pretty much. I have used it for all sorts of stuff, seems you can clean up with white spirit (not sure about tiger seal, that may need celly thinners)
but is very sticky, very strong and very waterproof. No datasheet as far as I can make out so ultimate strength may be different, depends on
application I guess.
|
|
|
furryeggs
|
| posted on 22/6/15 at 07:16 PM |
|
|
This is the floor of my tiger.
[img] [/img]
|
|
|
Badger_McLetcher
|
| posted on 22/6/15 at 07:30 PM |
|
|
I've got two across my chassis and it still boings a bit!
If disfunction is a function, then I must be some kind of genius.
|
|
|
Nickp
|
| posted on 22/6/15 at 07:35 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Badger_McLetcher
I've got two across my chassis and it still boings a bit!
What's the floor material / thickness?
|
|
|
Nickp
|
| posted on 1/7/15 at 08:30 PM |
|
|
Ok so the drivers side is in. Bonded, rivetted and a couple of extra m6 bolts towards the centre of the front seat bracing bar. It feels rock solid
with no flexing or 'doinging'  Now I'm happy with the result I'll crack on and do the other side the same.
|
|
|
paulc
|
| posted on 1/7/15 at 10:59 PM |
|
|
This is how I've done mine.
Seat rails are 50mm x 4mm
[Edited on 1/7/15 by paulc]
[Edited on 1/7/15 by paulc]
|
|
|
Nickp
|
| posted on 2/7/15 at 07:13 AM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by paulc
This is how I've done mine.
Seat rails are 50mm x 4mm
[Edited on 1/7/15 by paulc]
[Edited on 1/7/15 by paulc]
Good work, looks very sturdy. I presume you're fitting an ally floor? I think I would've added more bracing if I was but mine seems plenty
sturdy enough as it is now
|
|
|
Blueosis1
|
| posted on 2/7/15 at 04:50 PM |
|
|
Running the seat rails front to back rather than side to side gives the floor a bit more support ,especially when getting in and out of the car
Mark
|
|
|
paulc
|
| posted on 2/7/15 at 07:08 PM |
|
|
quote:
Originally posted by Nickp
Good work, looks very sturdy. I presume you're fitting an ally floor? I think I would've added more bracing if I was but mine seems plenty
sturdy enough as it is now
Yep, plan is a 2mm ally floor
|
|
|
allaboutfords2012
|
| posted on 14/7/15 at 08:25 PM |
|
|
Ive just bought a chassis and bits to do a formula 27 and was wondering this my self. Is there any benefit in using 2 mm chequer plate instead of flat
ali? I also guess its easier to fit floor first then cutout other panels put them to one side and build up suspension engine loom ect.
Thanks Mark
|
|
|
