help please my clocks on my 2008 gsxr 1000 are reading low oil pressure what could be the cause of this? has anyone had the same problem ive choped the sump down and put some baffels in so its useing the original sump. also how quick does the pump drain oil from the sump when the engine is at idle speed. the oil light stays on even at idle speed.

Oil light shouldn't be on, but most bike engines run very low pressure at idle. It should rise to a more typical pressure as the revs rise (somewhere around 40psi at 5000rpm at normal temperature).

Not sure about the cause but it's usueally Game over when the light comes on !!!

I can echo TWYBROW's comment ive a gsxr 1000 indy and although the oil light never comes on the oil pressure guage is a racetec std car engine type guage and that sits on the upper edge of red at idle and raises up to 40/50psi with 5k or more revs, i was a little concerned of how low at idle i had although light dont come on at all....

Is it definately oil pressure, and not oil level like the yamaha engines have?

on my R1 engine the oil light comes on for a few minutes at startup until it is warm, and briefly while going for a thrash. it is a known issue on the yamaha bikes though for the light to come on when everything is ok

even when i take engine revs up quite high light still stay on the light never turns out its realy got me worried now as this is a new build and engine only has 1,500 miles on it and i dont want to destroy it before i even get it on the road.

yes its oil pressure for def oil level has a little oil symbol that comes on!

Hi Chunky,

What have you done? First thing to do is turn the ignition on without running the engine and disconnect the wire from the oil pressure switch. if the light goes out, then the wiring is ok. if it stays on then you have a trapped wire which is shorting out to earth somewhere.
I thought that you had run this engine for a while with no ill effect.
I sent you my email address, if you want to speak to me, email your telephone number and we can talk.

hello cosmick ive only pluged the 120hm resistor in today and i thought this was causeing the oil pressure light to stay on sd on the clocks has now dissapeared after pluging the resistor in. ( i dont like to hastle people so i dident want to keep asking you loads of questions) but if you dont mind your help would be realy appreciated (by the way ive sent your heatshrink today. im gona try that now!

I would get a pressure guage hooked up even if only temporary. If it really is low oil pressure and not a fault do not run the motor again until you have pulled the bottom end down. Once the shell material has worn away and the hard steel of the rod has smacked the crank a few times the crank will be toast. As it is it might just need reshelling.
Just a thought - we had one do this a few years ago and all it was down to was a small fragment of silicon sealant blocking the oil way into the sender, might be worth removing the switch and checking
best regards
Andy

if you have removed the sump and pickup to cut it down and left it off for over 5 hours all the oil will drain, i mean every drop and when you refit it all and start it up u can sometimes get an air lock. so you have NO OIL running around the engine = if you have been revving it.

get the rocker cover off, unplug the coils or injectors and run the starter over, there should be oil spraying the cams. if not then its an air lock. failing that do what the others have said and get a gauge fitted ASAP and see if its showing any pressure.

I wouldnt start it up again without doing the above, you risk even more damage to the engine if there is indeed no pressure.

To remove air lock crank the engine over with the injectors unplugged to stop it starting and undo the oil filter, it has to be loose and you will see it 'burping' until a good flow of oil is escaping around it then do back up and crank engine again to see if the light goes out or u get pressure.

google 'burping oil filter' and the like and you will find many people suffer from it.

Lets hope it this AND you have got lucky and not damamged the engine.

ive just unpluged the oil pressure switch lead and turned key to on possition and oil pressure light stayed on then ive just traced the wire back to the clocks and there is no brake or earth in the wire! any ideas now?

Chunky,

You have an email

Just a daft option you aint got the same clocks as me have you mines a 2003 Gsxr clock set and the red light next the the 14k red line does more than the oil pressure ?

Its also the FI warning light for fault codes and regulary comes on and stays on with exhaust valve removal mods and stuff, have a look on www.gsxr.com and search for FI light stuff, as my car regualary puts that light on but i can flick a switch to clear it, as its something to do with mine having no evac exhaust jobby..

Just a thought, think it also does temp warning light as well not 100% sure though.

[Edited on 23/9/10 by neo2]

yes mate your right! ive just been told this of someone on here and he realy knows what he,s talking about hes told me the exact same thing the light is more than just oil pressure he also told me how to check the oil pressure switch without running it through the harness. thanks for that reply though.

All (correct or opinionated) advice is helpful - posting messages that may benefit us all shouldn't really be kept off the forum should they?

Surely that's what forums are for, isn't it?

The ZX12 Engine idles with only 5psi indicated..

Steve

[Edited on 24-9-10 by Hellfire]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Hellfire
All (correct or opinionated) advice is helpful - posting messages that may benefit us all shouldn't really be kept off the forum should they?

Surely that's what forums are for, isn't it?

The ZX12 Engine idles with only 5psi indicated..

Steve

[Edited on 24-9-10 by Hellfire]

---

sorry lads. ill share my problem it turned out that it was not low oil pressure. it was electrical the oil pressure light is also fi failure and this will light if there are any problems with fi when starting the engine it turned out it was the servo motor to the exhaust so all you do is cut the b/w earth coming from the ecu to the servo motor. ive got to say cosmick knows his stuff and i give him 11out of 10 for the knowlege he has he only told me to ring him so we could get this problem sorted quickly as you have better communication by phone

sorry lads. ill share my problem it turned out that it was not low oil pressure. it was electrical the oil pressure light is also fi failure and this will light if there are any problems with fi when starting the engine it turned out it was the servo motor to the exhaust so all you do is cut the b/w earth coming from the ecu to the servo motor. ive got to say cosmick knows his stuff and i give him 11out of 10 for the knowlege he has he only told me to ring him so we could get this problem sorted quickly as you have better communication by phone

That's ok chunky, you only have to apologise once

sorry mate i have a sticky finger (and no i havent been doing anything dirty ha,ha,)

Just to add to this post my MK factory built car does show the FI light also but MK fitted a flick switch near the ECU and when i flick the switch the light goes off and an error code appears in the LCD display its always the same one which is C46 i think thats the servo one as well, not sure though...

neo2,

C46 is the Ex Valve which you are probably not using. There is a way of disabling the system so that it doesn't look for the valve everytime you turn the ignition on. this is so that full race exhaust systems can be fitted without the valve.
If your engine is a K3, you need to disconnect pin number 33 from the ECU. It is a Black/Brown coloured wire and is in the larger of the 2 connectors in the ECU , bottom row 2nd in from the right.

Thanks Cosmick, im not sure it might be a K1 or K2 how can you tell do you know..

neo2! mine showed c46 to it is the servo motor but as cosmick says yours will be a different colour wire as your engine is earlyer than mine im sure cosmick will talk you through through exactly what to do if you have any problems as he,s a realy helpfull bloke. it saves the clart on with keep flicking that switch everytime you start your engine. best of luck from mick!

neo2.

I would need the engine number to date it properly, but K1,2,3 and 4 are all the same wire to disconnect so that gives you a 4 year range.
Do you have a 4 pin diagnostic port or 6 pin? If you have a 4 pin then the engine will be a K1 or 2. If you have a 6 pin connector then it will be a K3 or 4.
The diagnostic port is a white connector with a rubber cover over the plug.
Kind regards,

cosmick

Excellent will check that out cosmick..

Elecrics: K1 and K2 are identical, K3 and K4 are identical. The looms are essentially the same K1-K4, but there are some important differences with how the electrons shuffle. Your exhaust valve advice is true for K1-K4 universally.

A quick look at the engine will tell you K3 or 4, simply by the engine mountings (1 less head/block) on the K3-K4. K3-K4 management is smaller, faster, using different trigger wheels for function (more teeth). TB's will have a black plastic rail (K3-K4), alloy tube sections (K1-K2). Injectors are pintle type K1-K2, multihole K3-K4. Your tilt switch K1-K2 will have 2 wires, K3-K4 will have 3.

The looms may well be difficult to differentiate, especially if modified (as they should be) to remove all the bike crap.

As for oil pressure (and for future reference), it's often alarmingly low. Volume on these engines is the critical thing, so be careful when it's cold..... don't nail the 1st grid launch until the oil is hot!

[Edited on 27/9/10 by motorcycle_mayhem]

Here you go a couple of engine pictures of mine..




Rob

whilst disconnecting the black/brown wire to fix the C46 error code i found another wire cut or broken any idea's its in the picture below in wire hole number 21 arrowed

neo2,

Hope you are now sorted with the correct wires disconnected. The wires need to be insulated so as not to touch any earth. If they do, the FI light will come back on.



cosmick

Sorry about the tardy response, I've been up to my armpits in engine bits. A (very) viable unit is now in the car for another upcoming weekend of (what is looking VERY wet) motorsport. At least the clutch won't take a large strain...

OK, you have a K1-K2 engine (3 bolt holes on crankcase/head), with K1-K2 TB's, Loom and Management. The only difference with K1-K2 are essentially the TB's. The STV's will have a cold idle run by a cable on the K1, by the ECU on the K2. All ECU's and loom are the same K1-K2, it'll pick up which TB's you've fitted and act accordingly.

The K1-K2 block doesn't have the 'windows' cut at the bottom of the bores (pumping loss benefits), so it's a strong block. They're great for boring and stroking.

Enjoy.