In preparation for a very special guest this next weekend (the pope - not! ), I have been working hard to get the frame and other ancilliaries painted. (gotta cover up those nasty welds woudn't you know! ).

Anyways, the product I chose isn't really paint, per-se, it's a "coating" hehe. And it really turned out nice. Much better than I anticipated. A smooth silver/metallic surface that feels and looks just like powdercoating. And just as tough, from what I am finding out. Even 1 day after application, this stuff is absolutely hard as nails!

I am still recovering from the mistake of not wearing a proper respirator the first hour. My nose is still coated on the inside with the stuff and I have a slight cough from inhaling the stuff. But I don't think the damage is permanent... cough, cough. Wear a RESPIRATOR!

If you are thinking about using POR15, you should really look into this product as a superior alternative.
http://www.rustbullet.com/Comparison/ProdComp.htm

Steve

I used 1/2 gallon to do 3 coats on all my frame items and rollbar.

[Edited on 3/3/04 by sgraber]

Humm, I've been considering alternatives to powercoating. Did it leave brush marks though, going by your cough I guessing you sprayed it on. How did you prepare the surface? Powdercoaters like to sandblast but I worry about it getting in my numerous rivet holes. A really hard surface isn't really ideal if it becomes brittle. If you have a test piece, once it's really hard, smack it with a hammer. Does it chip?

I haven't specifically whacked anything that's been painted with it --- yet. Let me get frustrated and I'll get back with you.

I would suggest you check out their website. It has all kinds of good info. http://www.rustbullet.com

Graber

Just wondering, why not just powdercoat instead?

I can do it on my own time. I control the quality of the job.

Aside from creating a plastic sheeting paint booth in my garage, there was virtually no prep work involved. I degreased the frame with Simple Green, left all the rust on it, rolled it into the garage and blew some paint on it. 3 coats to be exact.

The cost of the gallon of paint was $100. Other materials, $40. So I just got all of my parts coated for $140. I think that it's a good price. And I still have 1/2 gallon left over. I'm looking for other things to paint right now!

Graber

Okay, here's a big question.

How the devil did you make sure you painted all sides of all the tubes?! THAT is the number 1 reason for powdercoating, that it tends to go around the backside of tubes. I've painted simple tube structures before and sure enough I seem to *always* miss at least one side of a tube.

So how did you manuver the paint gun in and around every tube to reach full coverage?

Kurt, it was a royal PITA. A lot of contortionistic and bizzare ritualistic movements that are totally unnatural. <ouch>

I gunned the top side first. After 2 hours it is hard as nails. I rolled it over on one side, got the back sides of the top edge. 2 hours later rolled over on its back (shiny side down) and painted again. Finally over again to the other side. Another coat.

Next day I did it all over again.

I have been over the chassis with a fine toothed comb and am sure that I got all the tubes.

Of course powder coating is a fine way of finishing off a chassis. But it sits at the top of the scale in terms of expense. That may or may not be an issue for you.

In my case I am looking for the absolute least expensive way that doesn't compromise the standards (however low those may be) that I have set for final quality. If that means a lot of difficult work for myself, then so be it. I prefer that to spending the money. But that's just me. I'm a masochist I guess.



Steve

I checked out your site... great job getting it all back together so quickly! It will take me months...

Since I see you decided to use rivets, where are the holes drilled? Are they directly in the tubes are did you weld strips on? I ask because several people have asked me, "don't you worry about drilling holes in structural tubing?" Well, yes, but a mechanical/structural engineer I respect said don't worry about it. So what's my question... I guess I'm asking how you rationalized putting the holes directly in the tubes.

[Edited on 9/3/04 by kb58]

Well, have you seen my frame lately?That thing is seriously strong. (overbuilt) I don't think that a few dozen holes will make even the slightest difference.

The holes are in the tubes.

But seriously, You may be drilling a hole for each rivet, but you are filling that hole back up with a solid mass (the rivet) AND you are significantly increasing the stiffness/strength of your chassis with the addition of the paneling.

You can argue either side I suppose, but in the end, you're best bet is to follow common sense, copy what people have had success with before you, and just do it!

KB,
In my experience, the brunt of the strength comes from the corners... drilling holes in the middle of a square tube should be negligible at most. And, I agree with Steve... his frame is "overbuilt" (as well as mine).

I had my chassis and suspension blast cleaned , etch primed and powder coated for about £200 here in UK
Great for a spaceframe, but I'm struggling to find a UK supplier of Rust Bullet for my daughters Mini bodyshell (ready for welding / painting)
Powder coaters won't do car shells

I always wondered that, why, technically, you couldn't have an entire car powdercoated.

Distortion apparently - my powder coater said it was a major issue?