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Bolt on drive shaft removal
Jasper - 29/9/05 at 07:56 PM

Sierra rear end - all new to me ......

Ok, on the car I have there are new bolt on drive shafts to the new diff. I'm swapping the diff out for an LSD one. I've already had to cut off two out of four of the prop bolts as they were locktighted in and just would not shift. Now I'm trying to remove the bolts that hold on the drive shafts. Bearing in mind they are all new and not rusty - the f*ckers wont budge. Each pair seems to be linked by a flat bar but there seems to be no locking tabs. Am I missing something here - just worried about breaking off the alley key....

JoelP - 29/9/05 at 08:02 PM

no locking tabs, and you probably WILL break the allen key! Its either a t40 or t45 bit, ideally in an impact wrench. Pick a quite moment of afternoon and get your grinder out! much easier.

Dont put torx bolts back in, get proper headed bolts someone will know the exact size.

billy - 29/9/05 at 08:06 PM

I found if you get a punch or chisel and give the bolt a sharp whack before you try and undo them that works a treat, before i tried that i snapped x2 torx bits, give that a go it will work for sure

bob - 29/9/05 at 08:24 PM

Jasper

I had to grind most of mine off and they were pretty clean as well,i can understand the loctite but i cant understand why people tighten them till there fingers bleed.
Acording to the haynes drive shaft flange screws are tight at 38-43Nm (28-32lb old money)

As joel said replace with normal hex head 12.9 high tensiles i think M8 x 50 but best to check size.

JB - 29/9/05 at 08:55 PM

An impact drive (the type you hit with a hammer) may work.

I ended up using a chisel and big hammer.

John

SJC - 29/9/05 at 11:34 PM

Hi Jasper

I know it is not a answer to your question but the others have done that already ...

But....

I am after a set of new driveshafts and the splined shaft that goes through the hubs, Where did you get yours from as i am having trouble getting hold of new items???

Would be a great help if you could shed some light???

Cheers

[Edited on 29/9/05 by SJC]

Jasper - 30/9/05 at 08:42 AM

Cheers chaps - I'll grind em off then!

And I've no idea where they came from - my car was factory built by SSC with all new parts about 2-3 years ago. I got hold of it 70% completed.

NS Dev - 30/9/05 at 09:59 AM

quote:
Originally posted by bob
Jasper

I had to grind most of mine off and they were pretty clean as well,i can understand the loctite but i cant understand why people tighten them till there fingers bleed.
Acording to the haynes drive shaft flange screws are tight at 38-43Nm (28-32lb old money)

As joel said replace with normal hex head 12.9 high tensiles i think M8 x 50 but best to check size.


Yep, M8 x 50 Capheads in grade 12.9. I don't use loctite, but I do tighten them a touch higher then Haynes recommend (to around 48Nm) and I ALWAYS lightly oil the threads with clean engine oil before tightening. I use this setup on my grasser which puts massive forces on the shafts and they have not loosened yet. Without Loctite they come undone with a sharp crack on a 1/2" drive ratchet with an allen bit in it, then wind out nicely by hand! (I have put them in and out a few times now!)

[Edited on 30/9/05 by NS Dev]

Jasper - 30/9/05 at 10:52 AM

Excellent .......

And the best oil to use in an LSD?

smart51 - 30/9/05 at 11:58 AM

quote:
Originally posted by Jasper
And the best oil to use in an LSD?


Normal diff oil. Hypoid 90 according to haynes.

The limited slip part of a sierra diff is a viscous coupling and it is sealed. The remainder of the diff is just a normal diff and so you should use normal diff oil.

andyps - 30/9/05 at 12:23 PM

My driveshaft bolts all came out without too much problem - I had soaked them periodically with WD40 for about a month or so before I tried though.

billy - 30/9/05 at 09:50 PM

My way works...............Honest

Jasper - 3/10/05 at 07:22 PM

Billy - I'll give em a whack before cutting them off then!