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Locking a bias Bar
nib1980 - 7/7/07 at 01:14 PM

Hello all,

Quick question, how have you all locked your bias bars to pass the SVA?

pics would help me

many thanks


Dillinger1977 - 7/7/07 at 01:50 PM

i had 2 nuts on either side of the bar.
drilled entirely through the nut and bar and put a pin through.

I was also told to put a pin through the 2 nuts on the pushrods (which seems a bit excessive) but thats what I had to do...

i wouldnt recommend the bodge. (drill holes in either side of nut, glue half a pin sticking out so it looks like its gone through the bar) as they might ask you to remove it, or 'jiggle' it to see if its one pin.


wicket - 7/7/07 at 02:26 PM

1/2 nut on each side drilled and pinned.


RazMan - 7/7/07 at 02:56 PM

Ideally you need a shouldered nut so that it locks against the clevis pin and not the bracket. This will then allow the clevis to move as it should.


nitram38 - 7/7/07 at 03:17 PM

First off all, if you read the manual it says that the bias cannot be adjusted beyond the worst case senario i.e. if the bias is moved towards the rear brakes it must not be so much that the fronts are not applied first.
It does not say it can't be adjusted.
In otherwords it can still be adjustable after sva but not beyond this limit. Also it should be non-adjustable from the drivers postion while driving, so no dash adjusters either.
I used a nut on either end of the threaded rod that were roll pinned so that I could adjust the bias if necessary, but I also put two half nuts on the longest side of the bias bar so that it could be locked off. I then wound it right over to the front position. I was never asked to prove the worst case senario.
No problems passing sva.


[Edited on 7/7/2007 by nitram38]


BenB - 7/7/07 at 03:19 PM

I just made up a box which totally covered the brake pedals. It was rivetted in place (ie not removable). As it couldn't be adjusted (well not without taking the rivets out anyway) it passed.