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WTD: Tin Top Advice (ABS and ESC lights)
omega0684 - 14/12/13 at 01:43 PM

Hi Guys,

I have just replaced the rear nearside bearing assembly on my 1.9 cdti, 2005, Astra H, as its now done nearly 130k and there was a very precarious "wering" sound coming from that corner. No major issues with the actual job and the "wering noise" has now gone but my ABS light and the elctronic stability control light will not go out on the dash?

As the hub unit has the abs sensor built into it, could it be that the sensor inside is knackered and i have been unlucky and got a duff unit, or is there something else i have overlooked?

All thoughts welcome

All the best & Merry Christmas

Alex


ReMan - 14/12/13 at 01:51 PM

Cant yo plug the old hub back in an see what happens?
Else is it possible you put the ignition on with the unit unplugged which has triggers the fault light and now needs a proper reset to get rid of it?


sdh2903 - 14/12/13 at 02:11 PM

If it's been disconnected with power on the car then as above it will need a reset.


britishtrident - 14/12/13 at 02:14 PM

First thing I would do is check all the tyres for wear, size and pressure as I have heard of a case on a Vauxhall Astra where difference in tread. depth between tyres caused an ABS fault light to go on.


If it is hall effect abs sensor these are very sensitive to wheel bearing issues.
The only ways to check hall effect abs sensors is to check the voltage the abs ECU is supplying to the sensor after self-test and if that is OK check the output wave form with an oscilloscope.

Normally the ABS ECU. Supplies a normal 12v to each hall effect sensor during self test and if it dectects a fault it cuts the voltage leaving the voltage to float less than 2v. But this is impossible to check without a breakout connector.

It also may be the fault lights will clear automatically after 3 to 5 drive cylcles.

I know there have also been issues on some models from other manufactures with corrosion of the plug multi pin connector at the ABS ECU.