just wondering whether to do my bonnet in 18swg or 20swg NS4?

20swg will be easier to form and lighter but will it keep its shape ok?

Thinnest I have used before is 18swg so i have no idea!

I'm going for 18g next time. We did some side panels in 20g and they were fragile to say the least. I don't think they were up to road use, you only had to look at them and they dented and rippled.

NS4 is a 5xxx series alloy and quite bitchin to form. I've just attempted a bonnet in 18swg and it was a nightmare. Kinda turned out ok though but needs tweaking. You'll need all your strength, plus all someone elses, and a convenient lamppost. Still at least when kids try and sit on it they'll just bounce off!

I was advised to use 1050 half hard (which is pure ally) which is much much easier to form. I had a go with the 18swg NS4 just cos i had it. Might re-do my formed panels at some stage in the future in 1050 and do a better job...

Liam

20 swg ns3 thats what mine is. Regards Trev.

Thanks folks.

PS saw you and yr car at Donny Trev, rather nice!!!!, was going to stop for a chat but you looked a bit busy already!!

My bonnet's 16swg - now that took some bending! Got the sides done on a mate's industrial bending machine.

Nice and strong though...

David

Hi i8g half hard cant remember the code either 1051 or 1052 i am shure you will know the correct code.

The only place the bonnet becomes a bit of a problem when done is where you will have to cut it arond the exhaust and remove the bottom return edge but a couple of small vertical studs that stick up from the chassis through a hole in the retun edge either side of the cut out should do the trick.

Also for the carbs cut as a hole rather than cutting down through the return edge.

Ps did that template fit any good.

cheers matt

as far as I can tell yep thanks Matt.

to check properly, I need to remove my temporary fuel press gauge which currently sticks up in the way of everything in its temporary position on the end of the rail!!