A few weeks ago I was told by a mate following me that my brake lights only come on when the pedal is pressed really hard. A quick 5 minutes on Google shows I'm not the only one with the problem and that it's fairly common for hydraulic brake light switches to fail.

The first work-around I read about was on an MG forum, which noted to use a switching relay from the hydraulic switch to activate the brake lights, as this will turn them on sooner. I did this, and it works, to a point, but it's still not really showing the lights as early as I would like them to.

I've therefore taken the decision to fit a micro-switch to my brake pedal to activate the lights, again this seems to be a common choice for Westfield owners (as these cars come from the factory with a hydraulic switch).

The general consensus seems to be to fit an NC (Normally Closed) switch to the pedal, as most tin-tops use this system.

The problem I have is that I have a floor mounted pedal box so the arms are all going the wrong way. Other issues are working space within the car.

The only image I can find online of a micro-switch on a floor mounted pedal box is this:


I'm guessing I will have to come up with a similar solution where the switch is infront of the pedal. On yesterday's drive I checked for clearance and I have loads of room infront of the pedal to do something. However, access from the top of the scuttle is not possible and I don't want to make a removable hatch there either.

Anyone else fitted a micro-switch to a floor mounted pedal box in-situ? I'd love to see some photos of people's solutions.

Its no more common for hydraulic brake switches to fail than any other.....ford escort mk3 brake switches are particularly bad. ( mechanical)
Just fit another switch and drive your car. Mine has lasted 5 years and 30000 miles with out problems.

It's an absolute wanker to get to the switch and will mean I need to rebleed my brakes too. I'm also not convinced that they're no less likely to fail - there must be 100 posts on the westfield club about failed switches.

Also worth noting my car has done less than 500miles and the switch (which was new) has failed already.

My hydraulic switch failed in less than a year also.

motorbike rear brake light switches are the answer your looking for - the kind that get pulled on by a spring attached to the pedal
its normally a bit easier to find a place to mount them


I'm going for a the normally closed / OE type myself, but since mine isn't a floor mounted pedal box I'll have a bit more space for it....

[Edited on 19/5/2014 by mcerd1]

I've opted for the following on my Fury build, not tried in earnest yet though (photo's not great but you can hopefully make it out).

Did something similar on my Tiger (top mounted pedals) since got sick and tired of the brake lights flashing of their own accord.


Brake light switch + bracket

Something like http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/limit-switches/4473468/ maybe?

The roller lever mechanism can be fitted at any angle on it's shaft and the operating axis can be rotated around the switch body centreline. Mount to firewall, align operating axis and arm with lower end of pedal, positioned to operate with the first movement.

Hi dave if you u2u me your email address I will send you a pic of the setup on my westy

Why not run a push on micro switch with a long flexible metal contact, that could go at the rear to keep it tidy and low down to keep the movement small.

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Originally posted by loggyboy
Why not run a push on micro switch with a long flexible metal contact, that could go at the rear to keep it tidy and low down to keep the movement small.

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quote:

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Originally posted by daveb666

quote:

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Originally posted by loggyboy
Why not run a push on micro switch with a long flexible metal contact, that could go at the rear to keep it tidy and low down to keep the movement small.

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Draw me a diagram?

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That makes sense, thanks!

It's just getting access to that area to make a bulkhead attachment that I might struggle with.