You should feel 'at home' in a car that handles well and as you like it to. Then you don't have to worry what the car is doing as it'll be doing exactly what you expect, then you're free to get on with the job of driving - FAST
One for the drivers here. When driving (enthusiastically or otherwise) do you correct every single tweak and tremor, or do you deal with the big
inputs and let the car get on with the rest?
The nearest similar situation is when first learning how to ride a motorbike, I was absolutely terrified and gripped the handlebars so tight that I
was permanently affecting the bike. I was actually making it unstable, which increased my fear and kept the circle going. As soon as I learned to
loosen off, the bike just did its thing and it just became so much easier to ride. Does the same apply to a car?
I should mention this is just fast roads for now, so I'm talking manhole covers and roadwork leftovers, rather than the glass smooth tarmac of a
track.
Just let it do its thing. Just worry when the back end tries to overtake the front!
Trying to avoid potholes etc
[Edited on 23/1/13 by Ben_Copeland]
Sounds like something is wrong the first thing is to check the toe settings front and rear --- toe-out can give very twitchy handling especially if the rear toe-out.
Let the car do as it chooses the bulk of the time, just guide it. Far too many people think driving fast requires fast steering inputs all the time. Good friend of mine drives fast cars but gets it so unstable on corners by twitching left right and centre.
I would think its mainly about confidence, notwithstanding setup can impact on handling. I think is slightly different with a motorbike: the
'gripping tightly' effect probably has far more impact due to the fact that your body movement is controlling the bikes movement rather than
the actual input you are making through the handlebars. If you are terrified and gripping tight your whole body is likely tense and resisting any lean
that the bike makes...
You don't say that you are doing so but I'd think that if you find it necessary to constantly 'correct' the motion of the car you
aren't confident with what it is doing. It will depend whether your car progressively looses grip/slides etc or, without warning it simply spears
off into the undergrowth, but it seems logical that you take some time in a safe environment testing that out (track day?) thereby getting an
understanding of what needs correcting and what doesn't. Of course you can do that on the open road too, but there aren't as many run off
areas....
Only time I've had to constantly correct is in my jeep when a bush had gone. Normally a car won't wander that much.
Driving at any speed should be smooth and predictive. If you need to make sudden inputs the chances are you've misjudged something or are driving too fast for the conditions....IMHO
quote:
Originally posted by JoelP
Only time I've had to constantly correct is in my jeep when a bush had gone. Normally a car won't wander that much.
Either there is a problem/setup issue making the car very nervous/twitchy or you are nervous/twitchy behind the wheel which would suggest you are
uncomfortable with the way the car handles. To drive fast you must be relaxed (relatively speaking) and for that you must have confidence in both
yourself and the car. If your lack of confidence comes from a car that doesn't handle the way you would like then investigate what can be done to
set the car up more to your preference. If your lack of confidence comes from perhaps lack of experience driving cars fast then you may want to look
at off road driving skills events aimed at improving your fast safe driving skills.
You should feel 'at home' in a car that handles well and as you like it to. Then you don't have to worry what the car is doing as
it'll be doing exactly what you expect, then you're free to get on with the job of driving - FAST
Provided there is nothing amiss with the vehicle relax and let it deal with the minor issues. The risk is you will be constantly correcting your over
corrections otherwise.
Try not to react to features right in front of you, look further down the road and think ahead.
From my experience in anything from simple autotests to hillclimbing a few years back if I fought the car it would feel quick but be slow. A more calm
and measured approach was always surprisingly quicker.
Find a youtube in car bit of footage of a good rally driver maybe from a few years back before 4 wheel drive. Someone like Ari Vatenen, Stig Blomquist
or the like. The car is bucking ans sliding all over the place but the steering and pedal input is minimal in comparison.
My old Range Rover removed all the fast inputs, all by it's self
Some really good pointers there, thank you all. I think the overall 'nervousness' behind the wheel is the first issue I need to sort out. It
doesn't help that I had a relatively minor bump a while back, but it was in a situation that I would not have anticipated (a normally very
understeering front wheel drive car suddenly oversteering on a bend).
I do need to get the car checked over though, I knew it was a bad idea getting the toe checked by Halfords! Once I've had it looked at by a
competent mechanic I might have a bit more trust that things are ok and I can start relaxing a bit.
I agree with the bike riding info. I have ridden most of my life and I found the more I let the bike 'have it's head' the more
confident I became. As long as you are sensible and keep control and avoid potholes etc. it will feel much more stable.
With regards to the car, my Locost has given me 'moments' when using some of my local roads as there are a few potholes smack in the middle
of bends etc. But as long as I know they are there, avoid when I can and most importantly am ready for it I find that my driving has become less tense
as time goes on. I have no idea whether my setup is good or bad, but I am reasonably happy with the way she handles for my driving abilities.
I think the best advice which has been given here is to try and relax and do not fight the car unless as said, the car tries to swap ends.
I'm no expert but HTH 
Is this your 7 that is doing this? Do you have your car set very low by chance?
[Edited on 24/1/13 by Benzo]
quote:
Originally posted by Benzo
Is this your 7 that is doing this? Do you have your car set very low by chance?
[Edited on 24/1/13 by Benzo]
My BMW roadcar was extremely twitchy and dived about all over the road. When I had the front tracking checked it was bang on level. I had it adjusted half a degree toe in and it transformed the car. Fist thing I would check on your car.
quote:
Originally posted by macc man
My BMW roadcar was extremely twitchy and dived about all over the road. When I had the front tracking checked it was bang on level. I had it adjusted half a degree toe in and it transformed the car. Fist thing I would check on your car.
quote:
Originally posted by martyn1137
If I fought the car it would feel quick but be slow. A more calm and measured approach was always surprisingly quicker.
Does it tramline on road markings and stuff like that ? I would look at your tyres.
quote:
Originally posted by Peteff
Does it tramline on road markings and stuff like that ? I would look at your tyres.
it took me months to relax with my current tin-top - but then I has 2.5x the power of the last one
used to feel like I was hanging on for dear life and really twitchy, now it actually feels really predictable and solid but slow 
a new set of tyres helped alot too (arrowspeed budget tyres didn't inspire much confidence )
got some vredestein sportrac3's and it turned into a different car
quote:
Originally posted by Slimy38No, this is my daily driver tintop SEAT Toledo, everything is standard.
) 
) With tintops there is no way to get an accurate enough datum for 4 wheel alignment as a result if you get the alignment checked it always be pronounced to be out.
^^ doesn't surprise me, what sort of ballpark error/tollerance would you expect from a bog std. tin-top ?
the cars I mentioned above must have been miles out of the true alignment as they were all wearing tyres fast and unevenly
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
With tintops there is no way to get an accurate enough datum for 4 wheel alignment as a result if you get the alignment checked it always be pronounced to be out.