Just as a follow on from this thread, I'd be keen to hear if there are any tried and tested solutions to the cracking issues on the IRS Fury rear
uprights?
https://www.locostbuilders.co.uk/viewthread.php?tid
=162686&page=0&contribmessage=none
As I restart my build after a 4 year hiatus, I'm keen to make a few improvements to my original build here and there, and this is definitely one
issue that's always been at the back of my mind.
Anyone know if Fury Sportcars have updated the design?
Cheers,
Jek
I know on mine which I got in 2012 they now supply a bolt that goes all the way through but can't remember if there is one long piece of tubing or two as per the pictures. Will have a look at mine tomorrow.
So the long bolt sorts the problem therefore you would suspect flexing in the original configuration of separate bolts.
I'm thinking long bolt of 10.8 or 12.2 and strengthen the plate that the bolt holes which cracked are in.
What are those for?
I would consider not just an extra plate but vertical cross plates over or under depending on what needs to bolt where
I must admit I would like to see it in place for a better understanding as I have a live axle Fury
Hi Jek, welcome back.
Since the thread you linked to I found cracks in both of mine. Steve supplied new modified uprights that have a single tube right across the bottom
and a long through bolt. Slight issue is having the nut on the outside and being close to rubbing on 13" wheels. I just about got away with it.
Not sure whether I have photos but I'll look. You could use a long screw (or threaded rod) in the old style ones with nuts on the inside as well
or a long bolt and a spacer between tubes but it'd have to be a very good fit.
I found the cracks in mine less than a month before a planned tour and Steve got the new uprights out to me very quick.
Edit... No photos, sorry.
[Edited on 23/2/17 by adithorp]
This is on the Sierra IRS and doesn't affect the live axle cars. The bolts are 1/2"UNF and attach the lower wishbone to the upright. without either nuts on the inside end of the tubes or a spacer a single long bolt will be pushing the 2 tubes together and bending the upright. Yes you could add another plate but a long tube version doesn't need it and things are a bit tight for space there, The holes that the cracks go across are for the hub/bearing carrier to mount to the upright. Steve thought there were very few road cars that had suffered and was surprised I'd managed it. The mod came about because the RGB guys were breaking them.
Thanks for the replies. So it looks like a new pair of the updated uprights is the easiest way to go - I have the 13" CXR wheels too, so I should
have just enough clearance also.
Feels good to be making progress again, Adi. I got a pretty fed up with the project after all the issues I had during the BGH era...I bought an Elise
to play with and the Fury went under a cover. A few years on, with a fresh perspective and the bitterness towards BGH and the problems they caused
faded, I'm looking forward to finally completing it!
Nice to see Steve developing the car to fix some old problems, too. Mine will be road based, but plan to track it often, so I think its a worthwhile
change to make at this stage.
Jek
Is this an issue related only to track use and abuse or it could happen also with road use?
As I said, It's mainly race cars that have had the issue. Steve couldn't remember another road that had done it before mine. Mine does get a
few track days per year but I suspect it's the milage I do in the Alps/Pyrenees every summer that caused it.
If the car is already built I'd keep an eye on them and upgrade when convenient. Of all the pictures I've seen, although they've
cracked, none have broken apart completely.
quote:
Originally posted by tims31
I know on mine which I got in 2012 they now supply a bolt that goes all the way through but can't remember if there is one long piece of tubing or two as per the pictures. Will have a look at mine tomorrow.