Just checking but I take it is it ok to fit flexis to bath and sink? (fed from cold water tank in the loft)

.... but what about connection to electric shower? Mine is fed off the mains - any probs with that? Also any tips to ensure it does not come undone or leak due to the higher pressure? Pipe is 15 mm so is there any issue with the host, with in built valve, being restrictive?

Shouldn't be a problem, but I'd make sure that the ones you get are WRAS approved - slightly more expensive but better quality.
Not sure about the shower - I'm sure someone will be along to advise soon.

I use flexi's a lot when doing stuff. Especially on showers where every replacement seems to have the inlet in a slightly different place
Never an issue escept one in my hose. A plumber fiited one 15 years perviously, and had put a nasty twist in it. Gave way one morning, luckily I was in, 10 seconds and the water main was off. 15 seconds later back on after the tap isolator was shut.

Agree with getting the wras ones if possible, they are a bit better in feel. Push fit are available too, makes the job REALLY easy, especially if in an awkward place, like most plumbing is.

Oh, and I always fit the taps to the basin/sink, then the flexies, then fit the sink

great thanks; pretty sure mine (from Screwfix) are WRAS. ... seems I am on the right track.

since the toilet cistern hose will be exposed, pretty sure I have seen hose with chrome plated valve instead of less shiny cast vale so need one of those.

Oh yes, flexis are nice but cheap ones are (quite literally) a false economy. Main issue is if you use isolation valves use full-bore ones to avoid restricting flow. Not so important with a sink but for baths / showers full-bore is best.
It all depends on how good the access is- at some point a flexi will fail and you'll want to replace it ASAP. If you have good access then fine, if it'll be impossible to get to I wouldn't. but then I wouldn't hide/build-in compression joints either and people do that...

It's also worth fitting a pressure equalising valve. Brilliant things they are. £30 from BES. Makes sure you don't get scalded when someone flushes the bog People use thermostatic devices to provide the same function but they don't respond quick enough, a nice PEV does the job instantly. I fit them routinely now.

I find flexis mixed blessings.... easy to fit, but can be noisy and they are usually not "full bore" so if you have a powershower... not a good idea...

so convoluted coper pipe better for plumbing in shower?

Can you not do a "Proper job" with either solder-ring copper or pushfit plastic? Flexis seem lilke a bit of a bodge to me. (I am a bit weird in that, all pipework has to be square, neatly clipped... even when its hidden in walls )

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Originally posted by tegwin
Can you not do a "Proper job" with either solder-ring copper or pushfit plastic? Flexis seem lilke a bit of a bodge to me. (I am a bit weird in that, all pipework has to be square, neatly clipped... even when its hidden in walls )

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Hi, you could use plastic pipe for the shower this would make it semi flexible the fitting onto the shower would have to be a compression joint anyway most have plastic inlets these days and have a small filter which you would need to be able to clean occasionally.
also you probably know but ill say anyway flush out the pipework before attaching the shower, it doesnt take much dirt to ruin the solenoid in a modern electric shower
and fit a service valve somewhere handy for future maintenance (they are so cheap these days).
Ray

I use HEP plastic pipe, you can use this with copper compression fittings and aids mis-aliment, only problem with it is MICE like it so not ideal for under floors etc.

Bummer is you cann't solder it with and it melts with the blow torch