I've been searching kitchen and bathroom places for months and not finding what I want
so I'm hoping someone here will have some answers / advice....


long story short, I'm putting in a new bathroom and need a worktop 470mm wide and ~2000mm long, after long discussions with SWMBO we recon that a nice rich walnut is the answer

obviously a half decent laminate would be easier, cheaper and more water resistant, but the trouble is all the ones we've seen have been quite dull or almost grey'ish (and we much have looked nearly everywere)

so I'm starting to think about real walnut, but how to protect it from water damage ? (I'm convinced that oiling it will last more than 5min...)

any thoughts ?

We have solid Oak kitchen worktop and they are always getting wet and sometimes don't get wiped down for sometime. We haven't had any issues (18months) but we do oil them regularly. I don't know if this would be different in a bathroom where it could be much damper however.

regarsd Pete

Have u tried Ikea ?

i have walnut ones in our kitchen and am utterly sick of them. (three years in) maybe i'm using the wrong oil, but the sadolin stuff i've used of late seems to last about 1 week in the kitchens high use areas before it starts looking milky white rather than nice dark brown, and that seems to be anj improvement on the ikea stuff we had before.

when they are just done, they look amazing. but at the moment we are seriously considering ripping them out and replacing with laminate stuff. recently sanded all of them back and re sealed with 6 coats over several days. two weeks later already looking pale and cr*ppy

if anyone can recomend an oil that wont do this PLEASE tell me what it is.

yes we've looked in Ikea already

quote:

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Originally posted by swannyif anyone can recomend an oil that wont do this PLEASE tell me what it is.

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Our oak worktops still look as new# after 5 years, and we do a lot of cooking. Currently using Heartwood Oil from timber merchant. It's a bit sticky for a few hours then fine - best done before you go to bed, then it's ok for the morning

# apart from the one that I used for kneading dough - got a bollocking from SWBO for that!

Seem to remember my parents sealing there wooden worktop with an clear (epoxy?) coating, hard as nails very gloss like but stopped the oiling issue and seemed to last for many years..

There's no beating real wood, but I just couldn't be doing with the grief. My parents had real oak for a few years and go so fed up with it they pulled it out and fitted granite instead, looks good and maintenance free.

The one I had was a bit of a pain, you soon lose interest in oiling the bloody things

I have oak in my kitchen - love it.

I oil it with whatever oil is to hand (vegetable/olive) once a month or so after wiping it down. Yes, mine has some marks from leaving wet cups on it etc. but it sands out easily if it bothers you and in general I'd never swap it for a laminate. Well worth the (marginally) additional effort.

I fit lots of real wood tops for work. We use rustins danish oil to protect. Monthly for first year and 6 monthly thereafter.

My favourite wood is zebrano, i intend to make a large dining table out of this stuff sometime soon:

http://woodworktops.com/zebrano-worktops.html

looks gorgeous when oiled.

Using real wood in a bathroom, you'd need to love it and take good care of it. Id say if you have kids in the house, dont bother. Needs drying off promptly, the room needs to be well aired, and you'd need to leave decent expansion gaps.

I have oak and use liberon finishing oil as supplied to me by Norforlk Oak, it's very good you can leave it gloss or scuff with 0000 wire wool for satin finish.

I left the sink surround lip in gloss (under mount) just the edge and its still glossy and waterproof and I haven't oiled that bit for a year last June.

You need to leave the house for a bit once you oil it though as it makes you high.

Osmo oils are the bees knees, but natural wood will need a high level of general care in a bathroom as stated earlier.

To those wanting to rip out their wooden worktops..... Can I have a bit? Just 1400x500mm. Not bothered how thick....... ;-§

I've used solid oak in in both the bathroom and the kitchen protected with two coats of water based varnish. It just gets wiped down from time to time and that's it. Still looks like new after two and a half years.

Not dear either. A 40mm thick, 2.5M long x 80 cm (minimum) wide slice of seasoned oak costs 40€ or Ģ32 at my local woodyard. I does take a bit of cutting and sanding to tidy it up though...

Why not use granite or marble, looks fantastic as is tough as nails?

quote:

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Originally posted by Bluemoon
Seem to remember my parents sealing there wooden worktop with an clear (epoxy?) coating, hard as nails very gloss like but stopped the oiling issue and seemed to last for many years.. [/quote

dont use expoxy, SHALAK is what i used and its a natural product (Ant Spit), ours is super glossy and child proof in our bathroom.

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YODI - 17/11/12 at 04:20 PM

I work next door to a wood worktop factory, let me know if I can help

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mcerd1 - 19/11/12 at 09:06 AM

granite, marble or even those man made 'stone' ones would be easier, but we just can't find anything that goes with the rest of the bathroom



I'm very interested in altenatives to oil for solid wood, was considering a satin yacht varnish (~5 coats on all sides of the wood) but if there is a better solution I'd love to know

also where to buy the worktop from ? (and maybe 2 or 3 small shelves too)

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roadrunner - 19/11/12 at 10:18 AM

For a continuously wet area, you need to use Teak or Iroko which is a Teak alternative.
Ioko is used as a draining board for the old Belfast sinks . You can get away with not oiling it and it has a lovely rich darkish colour.
If you do oil it up, Danish or Teak oil is very good, and easy to use without odours.

Brad.

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swanny - 19/11/12 at 10:54 AM

Iroko:

(from Wikipedia)
The tree is feared in some cultures where it originates and hence is shunned or revered with offerings.[3] Yoruba people believe that the tree is inhabited by a spirit, and anybody who sees the Iroko-man face to face becomes insane and speedily dies.[4] According to the Yoruba, any man who cuts down any Iroko tree causes devastating misfortune on himself and all of his family.[4] They also claim that the spirit of the Iroko can be heard in houses which use Iroko wood, as the spirit of the Iroko is trapped in the wood.[4] There are other trees in Nigeria which have the same claims by the Yoruba people.

Blimey! I'll stick with Walnut

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mcerd1 - 19/11/12 at 10:59 AM

quote:

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Originally posted by swanny
....Blimey! I'll stick with Walnut

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lol

I'm safe though, SWMBO has already decided Iroko is the worng colour (and I can't argue as I'm actually colour blind.....)

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roadrunner - 19/11/12 at 05:15 PM

If your quick, you can check the pictures at the top of the home page. You will see Iroko and Walnut. Both are very similar in colour.

Brad

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mcerd1 - 20/11/12 at 08:11 AM

quote:

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Originally posted by roadrunner
If your quick, you can check the pictures at the top of the home page. You will see Iroko and Walnut. Both are very similar in colour.

Brad

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sorry should have said, its the darker / black walnut's we've been looking at

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JoelP - 20/11/12 at 06:52 PM

black american walnut at the bottom of this link?

http://woodworktops.com/walnut-worktops.html

ive not found a cheaper supplier of wood worktops, so please let me know if you do!

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Confused but excited. - 20/11/12 at 07:15 PM

Not got ant wood in my bathroom but I have two exterior doors in hardwood. The front door faces east and therefore gets a battering in winter when the wind and rain blow directly in off the sea. I do it once every couple of years with three coats of Rustins Danish Oil and after 14 years, it looks like new.
My back door, which is more protected was done last time with yacht varnish. It didn't last the winter before it started peeling off.
So one more vote for Rustins Danish Oil.

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Xtreme Kermit - 20/11/12 at 10:53 PM

I loved our wooden kitchen top. Beach block from a well know kitchen supplier.

Oiled with Tung oil once or twice a year after a wire wooling. Was great!

(remember through role tinted specs as it did split a little across a couple of the blocks near the butler, but overall it looked great)

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trextr7monkey - 20/11/12 at 11:57 PM

quote:

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Originally posted by swanny
Iroko:

(from Wikipedia)
The tree is feared in some cultures where it originates and hence is shunned or revered with offerings.[3] Yoruba people believe that the tree is inhabited by a spirit, and anybody who sees the Iroko-man face to face becomes insane and speedily dies.[4] According to the Yoruba, any man who cuts down any Iroko tree causes devastating misfortune on himself and all of his family.[4] They also claim that the spirit of the Iroko can be heard in houses which use Iroko wood, as the spirit of the Iroko is trapped in the wood.[4] There are other trees in Nigeria which have the same claims by the Yoruba people.

Blimey! I'll stick with Walnut

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Like a lot of the mumbo jumbo bollox it may be tentatively connected with the facts- what they need to be scared of is the dust if working with iroko for long periods, it is a carcinogen and fairly irritating, we use it at work but have a decent dust extraction system. Over the years we have had several alerts re the issues associated with the timber but it is bomb proof!!
atb
Mike

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Angel Acevedo - 21/11/12 at 12:34 AM

I have two Bathroom tables (the ones where the lavatory is installed, Donīt know the name) both are made with Frijolillo (Tropical wood).
I made one and used Gorilla Glue (Polyurethane Based Glue) this one is as the day I glued it, but the finish is rubbish (i did it with PU transparent Varnish)
The other one I commissioned it and even as I asked for water proof glue, I donīt know what they used, the glue line has faied at a couple of places, but the finish -the same varnish, is good, this finish was applied by the carpenter.
I would recommend the same, If you must use more than one piece, use PU based glue, here in mexico we use a base varnish called "Sellador" (Sealer) and then the finish of choice, PU Varnish is extremely good for boat finishes, so it is more than enough for the duty it has on my Bathroom tables.
Hope this helpes.

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swanny - 15/12/12 at 08:06 PM

quite a few people on here suggestiong rustins for worktops. but i have a quick question are you using the nomal rustins danish oil on the worktops or the specific rustins worktop oil?

Paul

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smart51 - 15/12/12 at 09:07 PM

Iroko is lovely. I made a bench from it. It has greyed now but shows no ill effects from being left outside all year round.


Rescued attachment bench small.JPG

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JoelP - 15/12/12 at 10:31 PM

quote:

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Originally posted by swanny
quite a few people on here suggestiong rustins for worktops. but i have a quick question are you using the nomal rustins danish oil on the worktops or the specific rustins worktop oil?

Paul

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I've used both. I found the specific worktop version to be nasty and sticky, and doesnt smell nice. The other stuff says dont use on food surfaces, but its far superior, and its not like youd make a sandwich on its whilst its still wet! Once its soaked in and dried, im confident there would be no transfer to food.


I should add smart51, thats a f**king nice bench! Good job.

[Edited on 15/12/12 by JoelP]

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mcerd1 - 17/12/12 at 08:28 AM

I've now found this stuff: http://www.letonkinoisvarnish.co.uk/

its basically danish oil + resin, goes on glossy but can be made satin or matt (either with the matting agent added to the top coat or just sand it or rub it down with wire wool)

got a can of it the other day so I'll let you know how I get on........

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theprisioner - 17/12/12 at 09:02 AM

The last time I was in Howdens they had a new 2 pack hardwood worktop sealer. One of the problems with the normal sealer is it takes 6 coats and that adds to the fitting time/cost of these worktops. Apparently this new stuff puts a hard shine 2 pack type seal with fewer coats. It can be flattened off with fine abrasive I believe. I can get more details if intersted. (I fit kitchens sometimes).

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mcerd1 - 17/12/12 at 10:04 AM

^^ I'd like to see more details please - it might give me an alternative if the stuff I've got won't do the job...


the Le Tonkinois stuff I've got to try is a single part varnish thats only suppossed to need ~3 coats (5 max.)
its very old fashoned so takes while to dry between coats, but you can paint it on over the top of dainish oil without having to remove it

also there is a matting agent you can add to the top coat if you can't be bothered flattening it off to get a matt/satin finish


[Edited on 17/12/2012 by mcerd1]

[Edited on 17/12/2012 by mcerd1]

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