i would like to replace crossflow engine in my striker. new engine must have alloy block and around 150/160 bhp.im considering toyota 4a-ge ford zetec se or honda 1.6 v-tec anyone got any recomendations or alternatives thanks m.
The 4-age is a cast iron block. But its still a very light engine.
Only the 1.25 Zetec Se engine is an ali block, all others are cast iron.
Rover K-series, cheap as chips and tuneable.
I thought all zetec se (sigma) engines were alloy blocks?
quote:
Originally posted by StevieB
I thought all zetec se (sigma) engines were alloy blocks?
Duratec, alloy block, and excellent tuning potential.
Honda v-tec would be a good revvy engine. Not sure what u could run it with though if u didnt want standard managemnt and what box ud use.
But it has to be zetec.
got to say i'm completely undecided on engine at moment would like to stay with a1.6 to compete in <1700 class. has k series got alloy block and is it true thy suffer from head gasket problems?
how about an rx8 engine, comes with six speed box, 9k rev limit and 230 bhp. Complete set ups are selling for £1500 on ebay.
Very light and small
im sure i could make an adaptor plate to mate v-tec to type 9 but would a type 9 survive the v-tecs rpm?
honda s2000 engine and box
Antnicuk.looks like youve allready done the turbo rotary thing whats it like to drive?if its any thing like the 320bhp impreza i used to own the thought of it coming on boost mid corner in a 500kg striker scares me to death.m.
mine is a bit mental but the rx8 isnt turbo'd so it has very linear revy power band. Mines the older rx7 engine which was/is turbo'd but
then i'm looking for 400 + flwhp in the near future.
The rx8 engine is very similar in power to the honda engine which would be my second choice. It has less of an aggressive peak. the honda kicks you in
the nuts at 7k rpm. The rx8 is much smoother.
The Honda engine turns the wrong way though unless you use the S2000 one. Pretty fast in reverse though
do all honda engines rotate wrong way? i think theres a guy hillclimbs a 1.6 honda engined westfield but dont know what he uses for a box.m.
I would spend the money on a better X-Flow. It's actually lighter than you think, and for hillclimbing the midrange grunt from a really good
8valve is just what you need. 160bhp is easily achievable without the need for steel internals, ( I know because I've done it) and you're
car is already set up for it. Keep it simple. If money's no object stick a BDA in it.
If you want to save a little weight on your Striker how about an alloy diff. casing, alloy bellhousing. Get rid of unnecessary oil coolers etc etc
(assuming you haven't already done it).
yes as above that is possible out of a crossflow. Use 84 bore if you have a 711M block. I used fiat pistons to achieve 84 bore hence a displacement of
1719 cc.
If used on the road too, dont go bigger than a 244 cam. As for compression I use 11:1.
If rebuilding from scratch then consider the 4age,otherwise keep the x-flow.
As far as I know the Nissan 2 litre motors are all Alluminium with tons of potential and very strong.
quote:
Originally posted by MkII
got to say i'm completely undecided on engine at moment would like to stay with a1.6 to compete in <1700 class.
.. ) 
)
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
quote:
Originally posted by StevieB
I thought all zetec se (sigma) engines were alloy blocks?
Ahh yes they broght out some more, up to 1.6l. Apologies, I stand corrected.
Only 123bhp in standard form out of the mundaneo though...
Is your Striker primarily a road car with occasional Hillclimb/Sprint use? Or is it a Hillclimb car with occasional road use?
If it's the latter, I still say get your crossflow rebuilt. Buy the BEST cylinder head that you can afford from someone like Peter Burgess or
Dave Brooks. I know these names don't slip off the tongue like some other big companies, but they really are much better. Use forged pistons, and
Dave Brooks modified standard rods. Standard, lightened rockers with steel posts and shaft, Kent VS39 valve springs, Kent 264 cam. Lighweight steel
flywheel, but keep the heavy duty 8.5" organic clutch (paddle clutches are a pain), 1 3/4" 4 to1 exhaust, 45 DCOE Webers with 35mm chokes
(as big as you'll EVER need to go on a Crossflow despite what pub "experts" may say) or quadruple Keihin Flatslide carbs of 33mm (not
CV bike carbs). Webers will be easier to jet properly.
If using a 264 cam, you will need a close ratio gearbox. Personally I think the Type 9 is a lousy box, but a straight cut, close ratio gearkit
improves it. Use fully synthetic gear oil to reduce transmission losses. You may need to lower the ratio of your rear diff, and make sure you fit a
plate-type LSD. There's no point having more power if you just spin it all away exiting corners...
I know I make it sound easy, but it really isn't that difficult. The modified standard engine internals are well up to hillclimb/sprint use
(although for circuit racing I may use a steel crank/rods). That little lot will add up to mega X-Flow bhp , with serious grunt from 4500rpm onwards.
Keep a sensible rev limit of 8000rpm (from experience max power will be around the 7000 mark), and you won't have any problems.
It will take thousands of £££s to replicate that power from a "modern" 16v engine, (not just the engine but all the fitting problems) and if
I were able to spend that sort of money I would fit a BDA instead! Proper racing engine, not a converted shopping car engine!
Cheers Chris.
Another option is forced induction on a smaller engine.
quote:
Originally posted by MkII
do all honda engines rotate wrong way? i think theres a guy hillclimbs a 1.6 honda engined westfield but dont know what he uses for a box.m.
quote:
Originally posted by Memphis Twin
It will take thousands of £££s to replicate that power from a "modern" 16v engine, (not just the engine but all the fitting problems) and if I were able to spend that sort of money I would fit a BDA instead! Proper racing engine, not a converted shopping car engine!
Cheers Chris.
quote:
Originally posted by iank
Another option is forced induction on a smaller engine.
quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
quote:
Originally posted by iank
Another option is forced induction on a smaller engine.
It would need to be around 1200cc or less though, as the equivalence formula is 1.4 - to stay in the up to 1.7 class that is.
Though I've heard good things about Daihatsu Charade 1.0 Turbo's I've never heard of anybody using one in a Seven - Anybody?
Hmmm, go on then quote some specs?
Going from a Burton 1650 to the 4AGE gained me 40bhp.
Bear in mind that a box stock later 4AGE kicks out 150 bhp, put some mild cams and twin 40's on a 16v and its around 175ish - we're talking
a few hundred quid here not thousands..
And I've done this conversion - there are no 'fitting problems'..
quote:
So how much did it cost then? (including stuff like bellhousing, exhaust etc. I'm curious...
), but on a performance per £ ratio, coupled with availability and ease
of use it's got a lot going for it IMHO. quote:
Originally posted by JimSpencer
quote:
So how much did it cost then? (including stuff like bellhousing, exhaust etc. I'm curious...
Hi
Good question that, did a few other bits at the same time (uprated the gearbox etc) but if I recall correctly something like:-
Converting the engine to RWD inc Bellhousing & Manifold and the other bits and pices for fitting was around £700.
Think we got the engine for around £400 but that was a Phase 4 16v - quite low mileage. The spare one I've got in the garage cost about a quarter of that - but that was by buying a complete, but running, MOT failure 92 corolla GTi!
We then added the cams, and some light head work to ours which added around £500 to it with vernier pulleys etc.
Running at just under 180bhp, and we've been doing OK with it in the ANWCC, Chester & Liverpool & Midland speed series. Sure it's not in the same league as some of the engines being run (240bhp for £6 - 8k
The basic theory we arrived at was:-
If we spent our £'s on the conversion and then subsequently we grenade an engine, for litterally a bit of elbow grease and a few hundred £'s we can be up and running again. If we had gone down the route of the expensive engine and we had damaged that it would be game over for at least a season.
It's the approach I've pretty much set on of trying to engineer long term cheap running costs into it - and then concentrate on the car's dynamics to get the results out of it.
Means we (share the car at events with my brother) can be pretty competitive on a sensible budget.
thanks for all the replys. to answer afew of your questions:-
car is used regulary on road with sprints hillclimbs as often as budget/work commitments allow,8-10 events this year
my crossflow was in car when i bought it so details are abit sketchy as i havent had it in bits its only done 3k miles
what i know for definite is
1660 crossflow built by brian randall
stage 2 head
lightened and ballanced bottom end
aldon dizzy and luminition
piper 285 cam vernier&duplex chain
twin 40s
stell rocker posts & shaft
dont know comp ratio but by way it turns on starter its way above std
ive never had it on rollers previous owner claimed 140 at wheels all i know is that it can keep with my mates 140 bhp caterham no probs.m.
[Edited on 25/11/08 by MkII]
Sorry to disappoint you, but I think you'll find with that spec. that it's got about 120bhp at the flywheel. (On a cold day...).
im not dissapointed. as i said i dont know exact spec of engine only what i have listed im also not sure head is stage 2 it may only be 120 at flywheel but as i say its as quick as a simillar car with 140 bhp as for engine choice ive nothing against keeping the crossflow but dont want to spend a fortune on it for little gain. im tempted to go for the 4a-ge if i decide on engine swap but im not ruling out zetec se although there isnt anyone who has replyed to this post singing its praises.m.
If I were to replace my x-flow then I'd consider the 4AGE - it's a physically small engine that's easy to fit into a standard chassis.
quote:
Originally posted by MkII
thanks for all the replys. to answer afew of your questions:-
car is used regulary on road with sprints hillclimbs as often as budget/work commitments allow,8-10 events this year
my crossflow was in car when i bought it so details are abit sketchy as i havent had it in bits its only done 3k miles
what i know for definite is
1660 crossflow built by brian randall
stage 2 head
lightened and ballanced bottom end
aldon dizzy and luminition
piper 285 cam vernier&duplex chain
twin 40s
stell rocker posts & shaft
dont know comp ratio but by way it turns on starter its way above std
ive never had it on rollers previous owner claimed 140 at wheels all i know is that it can keep with my mates 140 bhp caterham no probs.m.
[Edited on 25/11/08 by MkII]
thanks for your advice memphis twin youve just about got me convinced to keep the crossflow for nxt year at least.i think the plan is to remove head and get it looked at by some one who can tell me how much work has been done to it and how well then plan rest of mods from there chokes are already 33mm and engine runs perfect apart from on very very light throttle at 2000-2250 rpm.the only thing wrong with engine is rockers and shaft are worn would it be worth considering roller rockers or should i just replace with new steel items thanks m.
I would use new standard, but lightened rockers, but if you can find a good used set of standard lift roller rockers, use them. Going price 2nd hand
seems to be about £175. I wouldn't go to the expense of new ones. The only real advantage is that they stop the lateral wearing of the valve
guides and reduce frictional losses slightly. You can't use high-lift rockers with a 254 or 264 cam though...
As an aside, the all steel 1700 Crossflow in my old hillclimb Mallock made 180bhp at 7500 on Connaught's dyno. It was actually quite tractable!
I'm not convinced that it needed all those steel internals....
Cheers Chris.
[Edited on 27/11/08 by Memphis Twin]