Can any one help i am having problems with hdi diesel van
has had problem for about 2 months
when driving on motorway
van seems to pullback if that makes sense
then when it starts to pull it kicks out a puff of smoke
not using oil as i have not had to top up i a year
but just passed mot


[Edited on 06/12/2008 by pinto]

My Mitsi L200 did similar, a new fuel filter sorted it out.

It felt like a misfire on a petrol engine when under high revs load.

Seem to recall a stock firmware fault with power-loss on Citroen / Peugeot HDi engines. I certainly had the same problem with a 1.9 that we had some time ago - 3rd lane, 70-ish mph to 40 mph in not much time...

Surely this can't be the cause - brake light switch / wiring...?
Surprising linky

There also appear to be reports of airflow meter faults and loose / damaged intercooler hoses producing similar symptoms. Prob worth considering these too, although you'd need some diags for the afm.

Francis.

[Edited on 8/10/09 by mediabloke]

Did read some were about intercooler
and if i listen carefully under bonnet with engine running i think i can hear a hissing but cant track were from

if it were a boost leak or the cooler then it would black smoke WHILE going slowly, not as it picks up again.

Sounds like fuel delivery, I very much doubt it but worth changing the fuel filter as its cheap, then look at fuel injection system.

It sounds to me like it could well be airflow meter on the blink, but worth checking electrical connections on everything, especially the meter

or brake light switch..................

now that's bloody french engineering for you!!!!!! Why not use a throttle position switch, oh no, we've already spent too many euro cents on a brake light switch

I recently changed the airflow meter on my HDi and it made a massive difference.
I wasn't having the 'pulling back' symptoms but it felt sluggish and restricted.
I drove the car a couple of miles with the meter disconnected to see if it was the problem first.
Bought the replacement from GSF, not cheap but poor cheapo airflow meters are no good!
It now pulls strongly and revs to the redline..........but now I think the clutch is on it's way out!

Usual MAF test is to disconnect it --- if you get even a slight improvement the MAF has gone out of calibration limits.

brake switch. theres 2, one for lights, one for engine.

There about £4, or sometimes they just need taking apart and cleaning

I have a switch above brake pedal and one on the clutch pedal is that the second switch ?

theres usually 2 switches on the brake pedal, one slightly higher up. If there is only one switch and the brake lights are working properly its something else causing the engine problem.

I dont think the clutch switch effects the engine power, but it may be worth checking it anyway.