Any handy hints or tips for removing the bolts???

I can't see anything obvious with which I can 'jam' the flywheel with, and no matter how fast I can spin my socket, the crank keeps up with me...

Impact gun?

Make up an v shaped bit of 3 or 4 mm steel that will fit into the teeth in the flywheel and then put a bolt through one of the holes that bolt the engine to the gearbox. Turn the crank until the v shaped steel locks aginst the bolt, then undo your crank bolts.

If it's your Duratec, take the alignment bolt out of the front right of the block and replace with a 80mm ish long bolt then that'll hold the crank while you undo the flywheel bolts.

Put a punch through one of the bellhousing bolt holes and use it to jam a pry bar on the ring-gear.

Impact wrench to remove them...

Thanks folks... some good ideas there!

wooden block between crank webs and block - that is how I undid my crossflow bolts.

may or mauy not be such a good idea on an alloy block but still shuld be able to take it.

Put a punch through one of the bellhousing bolt holes and use it to jam a pry bar on the ring-gear.

Use the same method for removing as the guy did when removing his knurled wheel bolt. Take one good reciprocating saw and cut it off.

A deft blow with a mallet on the end of a crack bar can also do it. You can also place a socket on the front pulley and wedge the rachet on to the floor. The front pulley bolt is usually torqued up more than the flywheel bolts

I've used the "lump hammer" approach as well as the impact wrench - both work well, even if the impact wrench method is 10 times quicker...

The duratec flywheel bolts have threadlocker on them. Hence they are so difficult to undo

I managed to find a piece of wood to jam between the back of the head and the flywheel teeth to get mine off.

Dont be tempted to try and jam it against the block, there arent any strong enough ribs anywhere!