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Anybody want to buy a kit car before I set fire to it

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 06:29 PM

Best part of 10 hours b*ggering about with the Luego and no progress at all. Over the last few weeks we've changed the fuel pump, the fuel filter, the coil pack, leads and plugs, we've tried every Megajolt map ever written and still have exactly the same problem we started with.
Car runs a dream up to around 4500 rpm and then just seems to stop, not really a misfire, just stops accelerating properly and the engine sounds rough (sort of sounds as though it's misfiring but I don't think it is, just sounds rough)

The only constant in all of this is the carbs, I'm beginning to wonder if Bogg Brothers jetted them properly, something suddenly kicks in at 4500 and nothing we do seems to make any difference.

Supposed to be sprinting tomorrow with a decent weather forecast too, but looks like the car has decided it doesn't want to.

Properly hacked off.

Short of taking it somewhere, leaving the car and my wallet and and telling them to sort it, anyone got any suggestions before I have a Basil Fawlty moment and start whipping it with a (small) tree

INDY BIRD - 15/5/10 at 06:34 PM

persume thay are bike carbs,

do you think it is being starved of fuel??

have you tried washers under the needles to try to get more fuel in if that is the case,

then you could look at the jets,

check the plug gaps incase the plug is getting blown out if over fueling, do you know what fuel pressure you are running etc,

this info may help

mcerd1 - 15/5/10 at 06:37 PM

have you ever had the car on the rollers ?

deltron63 - 15/5/10 at 06:37 PM

check that a main jet hasn't fallen out. it happened to me this week. i only found it when i went to change the jet size.
5000 and above rpm nothing. now it pull hard to 7200!!

pilots50 - 15/5/10 at 06:39 PM

quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego
Best part of 10 hours b*ggering about with the Luego and no progress at all. Over the last few weeks we've changed the fuel pump, the fuel filter, the coil pack, leads and plugs, we've tried every Megajolt map ever written and still have exactly the same problem we started with.
Car runs a dream up to around 4500 rpm and then just seems to stop, not really a misfire, just stops accelerating properly and the engine sounds rough (sort of sounds as though it's misfiring but I don't think it is, just sounds rough)

The only constant in all of this is the carbs, I'm beginning to wonder if Bogg Brothers jetted them properly, something suddenly kicks in at 4500 and nothing we do seems to make any difference.

Supposed to be sprinting tomorrow with a decent weather forecast too, but looks like the car has decided it doesn't want to.

Properly hacked off.

Short of taking it somewhere, leaving the car and my wallet and and telling them to sort it, anyone got any suggestions before I have a Basil Fawlty moment and start whipping it with a (small) tree

David Jenkins - 15/5/10 at 06:46 PM

There is a VERY well-known thing that happens with Megajolt* around 4,000 - 4,500 rpm... if the VR sensor bracket isn't absolutely rigid then it can vibrate at those revs and totally screw up the EDIS timing, making the engine run really badly.

*Not really a MJ issue - more to do with EDIS.

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 06:50 PM

quote:
Originally posted by INDY BIRD
persume thay are bike carbs,

do you think it is being starved of fuel??

have you tried washers under the needles to try to get more fuel in if that is the case,

then you could look at the jets,

check the plug gaps incase the plug is getting blown out if over fueling, do you know what fuel pressure you are running etc,

this info may help

Yup, Fireblade carbs with a new Fireblade fuel pump so the pressure should be OK. Problem is I know a big fat zero about bike carbs which is why I got BB to sort them for me, but I'm starting to think it must be them

cd.thomson - 15/5/10 at 06:53 PM

bogg bros only ever set up carbs to get the car running...not set them up to any level of perfection.

you just need to rolling road the car - thats something that everyone with a set of bike carbs has to do?

[Edited on 15/5/10 by cd.thomson]

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 06:54 PM

quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
There is a VERY well-known thing that happens with Megajolt* around 4,000 - 4,500 rpm... if the VR sensor bracket isn't absolutely rigid then it can vibrate at those revs and totally screw up the EDIS timing, making the engine run really badly.

*Not really a MJ issue - more to do with EDIS.

That's interesting, it fits the symptoms, nothing we do with the map seems to affect it, always kicks in at exactly the same place in the same way and make the car feel the same

jacko - 15/5/10 at 06:55 PM

Saying you live in Norfolk why don't you take it to Bogg's and have it set up in stead of messing about
When i fitted my bike carbs it ran straight a way right though the rev range but at Boggs they blocked some holes to stop the carbs / fuel /air going week at high revs + lifted the main neddles
Jacko

deltron63 - 15/5/10 at 06:55 PM

whip of the float bowls and check the jets. i wouldn't have believed it if i didn't see it myself.
the jet was laying in the bottom of the bowl.

karlak - 15/5/10 at 06:58 PM

Probably a million miles from the mark, but I had a similar problem with my previous engine and a "homebrew" air filter. I removed the air filter and the problem disappeared. Worth a try ?

Dangle_kt - 15/5/10 at 07:00 PM

or blocked main jets - do you have a fuel filter? could have got gummed up if sat over winter - or loose jets as mentioned.

Lots of things to check - if you need me to snap a few pictures of the haynes manual for the carbs for fireblade and email them over I am happy to help. u2u me.

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 07:00 PM

quote:
Originally posted by cd.thomson
bogg bros only ever set up carbs to get the car running...not set them up to any level of perfection.

you just need to rolling road the car - thats something that everyone with a set of bike carbs has to do?

[Edited on 15/5/10 by cd.thomson]

Not saying I expected perfection but I thought it would be reasonably close, or closer than just get it started but as I said, I know diddly squat about bike carbs, starting to pine for my old Dellortos

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 07:02 PM

quote:
Originally posted by Dangle_kt
or blocked main jets - do you have a fuel filter? could have got gummed up if sat over winter - or loose jets as mentioned.

Lots of things to check - if you need me to snap a few pictures of the haynes manual for the carbs for fireblade and email them over I am happy to help. u2u me.

Brand new filter so I don't think that's it but I'd love to see the piccys

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 07:06 PM

quote:
Originally posted by karlak
Probably a million miles from the mark, but I had a similar problem with my previous engine and a "homebrew" air filter. I removed the air filter and the problem disappeared. Worth a try ?

Running on Pipercross filter socks at the moment, wouldn't have thought they'd cause a problem but it's worth a try without to see if there's any difference

mcerd1 - 15/5/10 at 07:38 PM

if you've got a trigger wheel rather than the std. zetec flywheel then the VR sensor problem sounds like a good place to start looking

have you got any pics of your setup at the moment ?

have you got a timing strobe to check the actual timing ?

also the filter socks arn't the best things - your much better off with a sausage filter or a good airbox and cone filter (or so I've always been told)
have you tried a quick run without the filters on ?

bogg bros should have said to you that they'd need a run on the rollers to get them set right (even if this isn't the problem your having)
but the same is true for webbers, Dellortos or any other carbs.....

[Edited on 15/5/2010 by mcerd1]

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 08:03 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1
if you've got a trigger wheel rather than the std. zetec flywheel then the VR sensor problem sounds like a good place to start looking

have you got any pics of your setup at the moment ?

have you got a timing strobe to check the actual timing ?

also the filter socks arn't the best things - your much better off with a sausage filter or a good airbox and cone filter (or so I've always been told)
have you tried a quick run without the filters on ?

bogg bros should have said to you that they'd need a run on the rollers to get them set right (even if this isn't the problem your having)
but the same is true for webbers, Dellortos or any other carbs.....

[Edited on 15/5/2010 by mcerd1]

I've no doubt it would be 'better' after a rolling road session but to be honest it runs so well up to 4500 I not sure it could be much better, just this damn problem at that one point.
Actually wasn't having a pop at BB as they did say ideally it needed a RR session but were confident they could jet it pretty close and they seem to have done that. I was just completely stumped as to what to do next, just wanted to get the car usable for the next few sprints then maybe rolling road it for tweeking. We are running a trigger wheel and the sensor bracket does seem pretty firm but I'll see if it could be better, maybe brace it to stop any high rev vibration and a run without the socks would be a nice Locost check but as for dismantling the carbs to check them internally, I wouldn't know where to start.

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 08:04 PM

quote:
Originally posted by deltron63
whip of the float bowls and check the jets. i wouldn't have believed it if i didn't see it myself.
the jet was laying in the bottom of the bowl.

How do I whip off the float bowls, really honestly don't know

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 08:13 PM

Not sure if this is relevant or not but when we replaced the Facet with a Fireblade fuel pump we also took off the Filter King and replaced it with an in line filter and to be honest the inlet and outlet unions do seem to be quite small, certainly smaller than the Filter King, could that be strangling the flow rate at high(ish) revs (I'm thinking bike carbs are high flow/low pressure)

Paul (Notts) - 15/5/10 at 08:13 PM

One simple investigation to try is r7unning with a lap top connected to megajolt you can watch or data log the rpm signal from eddis.

if it levels off at 4500 then its not the vr sensor.

if at 45000 it starts to jump about and drop back to 500 rpm ish then the vr sensor is loosing signal and you would drop back to a low ignition advance and no power.

Paul

mcerd1 - 15/5/10 at 08:14 PM

quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego
We are running a trigger wheel and the sensor bracket does seem pretty firm but I'll see if it could be better, maybe brace it to stop any high rev vibration

how far away is the sensor from the trigger wheel ?

omega 24 v6 - 15/5/10 at 08:19 PM

Dunno about megajolt but i have megasquirt and a home made vr conditioner board.
SO I had pretty much the same as you when the car reached certain revs the car just died. I started off at 2000rpm and gradually got to 3500 rpm but could not get past that. In the end phil ringwood recommended mucking about with resistors to get to the higher rev bands. I got a few from maplins and went to town on it and finally got a working setup that revs to the limiter (7K). It could be the same for you I suppose as the systems for the rpm pickups must be very similar.
If you need info look at the vr conditioner for a 2.2 ms efi unit and U2U me. I'll look up my notes (got them somewhere safe LOL) and see what I ended up doing.

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 08:21 PM

Interestingly (and not sure what it means, if anything) when 'the problem' starts to happen at 4500 if you dip the clutch and floor the throttle it revs straight past 4500 with no problem, right up to the (our) red line of 6500

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 08:22 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1

quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego
We are running a trigger wheel and the sensor bracket does seem pretty firm but I'll see if it could be better, maybe brace it to stop any high rev vibration

how far away is the sensor from the trigger wheel ?

It's pretty close, certainly within their 1-3mm suggested range

omega 24 v6 - 15/5/10 at 08:23 PM

sounds familiar to me that does Revved well in the garage BUT NOT on the road

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 08:42 PM

quote:
Originally posted by jacko
Saying you live in Norfolk why don't you take it to Bogg's and have it set up in stead of messing about
When i fitted my bike carbs it ran straight a way right though the rev range but at Boggs they blocked some holes to stop the carbs / fuel /air going week at high revs + lifted the main neddles
Jacko

Bogg Brothers are not exactly just around the corner from here, it would mean a day off work plus trailering the car up the A47 and then the dreaded A17, towing with the Pajero doesn't come cheap, it binge drinks diesel, then there's their fees on top of all of that, that would be one expensive day out, it's a bit of a mare of a journey from here, I do it quite regularly (oldest son lives in Wigginton just north of York) but in a car and not towing, even then the A17 is the stuff of nightmares, wall to wall artics and single carriageway almost all the way to the A1 at Newark and a near 400 mile round trip.
I might end up having to go to Bogg Brothers, I'm sure they'd sort it but it not my first choice, not yet anyway

[Edited on 15/5/10 by norfolkluego]

[Edited on 15/5/10 by norfolkluego]

mcerd1 - 15/5/10 at 08:54 PM

quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego

quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1

quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego
We are running a trigger wheel and the sensor bracket does seem pretty firm but I'll see if it could be better, maybe brace it to stop any high rev vibration

how far away is the sensor from the trigger wheel ?

It's pretty close, certainly within their 1-3mm suggested range

from what I can tell folk seem to have the best results with it near the 1mm ond of that

can you bend/ flex the braket with your fingers ?

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 09:14 PM

quote:
Originally posted by mcerd1

quote:

from what I can tell folk seem to have the best results with it near the 1mm ond of that

can you bend/ flex the braket with your fingers ?

To be honest we're probably nearer the 3mm than the 1mm, I think the suggestion about having the laptop plugged in when the problem happens (somebody in the passenger seat obviously) and seeing what the MJ thinks the rpm is at that point seems to be the easiest way to see if bracket is the problem, at least that's a logical way of ruling out (or confirming) one potential cause of the problem

deltron63 - 15/5/10 at 09:51 PM

this site should help
http://www.totalvauxhall.co.uk/resources/totalvauxhall/TOV64.tech60697.pdf

norfolkluego - 15/5/10 at 10:52 PM

quote:
Originally posted by deltron63
this site should help
http://www.totalvauxhall.co.uk/resources/totalvauxhall/TOV64.tech60697.pdf

Interesting link, don't think I'll start pulling the carbs apart until I've ruled out all of the other (easier to fix) stuff though

RazMan - 16/5/10 at 09:08 AM

Sounds like it might be a main jet problem to me. If idle and midrange are relatively ok then idle jets and needles are pretty much set up correctly. Main jets start to take over in the mid-to-upper rev range until WOT.

Can you coax it above 4500rpm by playing with the throttle or is it more like hitting a rev limiter? (which would suggest electrical probs)

Have you spoken to Bogg Bros? Maybe they simply cover their arses by bunging really rich main jets in until they get the car on the rollers.

[Edited on 16-5-10 by RazMan]

norfolkluego - 16/5/10 at 09:08 AM

quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego
Interestingly (and not sure what it means, if anything) when 'the problem' starts to happen at 4500 if you dip the clutch and floor the throttle it revs straight past 4500 with no problem, right up to the (our) red line of 6500

Before I gear up for another go, wouldn't the above seem to rule out the crank sensor
We're going to test it anyway but seems to be connected somehow to the engine being under load
Revs no problem on the drive
In gear on the road problem at 4500, dip clutch same revs no problem, off clutch pedal, problem back

flak monkey - 16/5/10 at 09:52 AM

Sounds like its running out of fuel to me. From your description I am assuming it just will not rev under load over 4500rpm.

I wouldnt worry aboutbthe restriction of the fuel filter, a 6mm bore hose will flow enough fuel for 800bhp! (why people insist on fitting 10mm hose I will never know!)

I also agree your VR sensor needs to be as close as possible to the trigger wheel. 1mm max.

norfolkluego - 16/5/10 at 10:48 AM

quote:

Can you coax it above 4500rpm by playing with the throttle or is it more like hitting a rev limiter? (which would suggest electrical probs)

Have you spoken to Bogg Bros? Maybe they simply cover their arses by bunging really rich main jets in until they get the car on the rollers.

[Edited on 16-5-10 by RazMan]

If you keep your right foot down it does increase revs (and speed) but more slowly and sounds rough (can't describe it any better than that, just doesn't sound right)

norfolkluego - 16/5/10 at 10:51 AM
quote:
Originally posted by flak monkey
Sounds like its running out of fuel to me. From your description I am assuming it just will not rev under load over 4500rpm.

Spot on, that's exactly it, but it's probably reluctant to rev/struggles to rev rather than will not

David Jenkins - 16/5/10 at 12:01 PM
quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego

quote:
Originally posted by norfolkluego
Interestingly (and not sure what it means, if anything) when 'the problem' starts to happen at 4500 if you dip the clutch and floor the throttle it revs straight past 4500 with no problem, right up to the (our) red line of 6500

Before I gear up for another go, wouldn't the above seem to rule out the crank sensor

Possibly - although I'd bet that the engine is vibrating a lot more when under full load!

I'd start with dropping the VR sensor gap to 1 mm - while you're there, try and waggle the sensor mount, and make sure it's fastened properly.

Another thought - with my car, it wouldn't go much above 4000 rpm after fitting bike carbs, because it was far to rich at WOT. I reduced the size of the main jets and it all came together nicely. That's really a rolling road job though.

craig_007 - 16/5/10 at 12:28 PM
You any idea what mains are in your carbs ?

I was running 160s and it was slighty over fuelling and that was on a 1.9 mi16 Peugeot engine.

I'm down to 150 mains now and the top end is good from 4000 rpm up to 7000+ rpm

David Jenkins - 16/5/10 at 12:39 PM
I followed everyone's guidance on here, and drilled the main jets to 1.6mm - after some work with an AFR meter the main jets were reduced to 1.3mm.

In my case the plugs were quite black and sooty if I cut the power and checked after attempting a full-throttle blast - in fact they were quite sooty most of the time.

Now they're the classic biscuit colour... (and I know that's a poor way of checking, before anyone says it)

norfolkluego - 16/5/10 at 03:50 PM
quote:
Originally posted by David Jenkins
I followed everyone's guidance on here, and drilled the main jets to 1.6mm - after some work with an AFR meter the main jets were reduced to 1.3mm.

In my case the plugs were quite black and sooty if I cut the power and checked after attempting a full-throttle blast - in fact they were quite sooty most of the time.

Now they're the classic biscuit colour... (and I know that's a poor way of checking, before anyone says it)

That's interesting. We had black and sooty plugs on 1 and 4 but a nice biscuit colour on 2 and 3, that's why we changed the coilpack as I assumed we just had a weak spark on 1 and 4, I've just popped out and checked and they're still the same even with the different coilpack, 2 and 3 are a perfect biscuit colour, 1 and 4 black, dry black, not oily black.

David Jenkins - 16/5/10 at 04:00 PM
For a start, I think I'd be happier if all the plugs were the same colour - even if it was the wrong one!

norfolkluego - 16/5/10 at 04:34 PM
So, assuming all the carbs have been jetted the same would that indicate I still have a poor spark on cylinders 1 and 4 at high revs, that is I still have a dodgy coilpack (both coil packs were bought secondhand off eBay but the leads are new)

FASTdan - 16/5/10 at 05:22 PM
Have the carbs been balanced?

I'd have thought if they were that out of balance it'd be rough everywhere but worth checking?

norfolkluego - 16/5/10 at 10:03 PM
quote:
Originally posted by FASTdan
Have the carbs been balanced?

I'd have thought if they were that out of balance it'd be rough everywhere but worth checking?

Not sure if BB balanced them (think so) but I've got a syphg......er carb balancer sucky thing so I'll give it a quick check.
Think is it's perfect up to 4500 so I can't see it's that

norfolkluego - 17/5/10 at 06:12 PM
Well I can rule out a balance problem, just checked and carbs pretty much spot on equal at 4000 (and all the way up).
Still wondering about this difference in the plug colour and if I've got another dodgy coil pack, is there anyway of 'bench testing' a coil pack to see if it's working correctly, I'm on the verge of buying a brand new one just to rule it out (maybe I'm just getting fixated on it)

will121 - 17/5/10 at 07:06 PM
Hi, ive got spare coil packs, a Webcon 2D base maped zetec ignition ecu, a narow band Lamba gauge and insight into fitted bike carbs fitted to my CVH which runs fine, you are welcome to borrow any of it, as local give me a shout could possible pop over one evening, with a box of bits and inspiration.

norfolkluego - 17/5/10 at 09:32 PM
quote:
Originally posted by will121
Hi, ive got spare coil packs, a Webcon 2D base maped zetec ignition ecu, a narow band Lamba gauge and insight into fitted bike carbs fitted to my CVH which runs fine, you are welcome to borrow any of it, as local give me a shout could possible pop over one evening, with a box of bits and inspiration.

Will, I'll take you up on that offer, I'll drop you a U2U

deltron63 - 19/5/10 at 08:10 PM
any news on the problem yet?

coozer - 19/5/10 at 09:37 PM
quote:
Originally posted by cd.thomson
bogg bros only ever set up carbs to get the car running...not set them up to any level of perfection.

you just need to rolling road the car - thats something that everyone with a set of bike carbs has to do?

[Edited on 15/5/10 by cd.thomson]

As usual I'm late here..

Craig, that's not right, Bogg Brothers (Dave) sets the carbs up for best AFR right across the whole range. He uses a rolling road with EGA to determine best setup.

I had exactly the same problem.. heres a bit of history, go get a can or a cuppa....

I built mine up with ZX9R carbs. I got them off ebag with a Dyno jet kit installed. Well I think it had a dynojet as the air bleed hole was blocked and it had needles with multi grooves.

Anyway, before SVA I did a track day and had a bit of fettling, overheating was the first problem and then not revving over 4K was the next.

I spent all day hooning round the track fiddling with needles, air screw position etc and came to the conclusion the main jet was too small. No drills around to try out the theory.

Went to SVA and passed emissions (just mind!) Still no revs over 4K.

Took it to Bogg Brothers and Dave sorted it out. The main jet was too small and the needles needed lifting. Then if revved out and fuel economy went up to 40 if I didn't flog it!

So, in essence it sounds like the mains are too small ( they account for the last 3/4 of the throttle) and I think Bogg Brothers is your best bet. I travelled 85 miles to them and it was worth every penny IMO!

LG,
Steve

norfolkluego - 20/5/10 at 08:17 PM
Gentlemen, I would like to award the Locostbuilders Medal of Honour to will121 who gave up his evening (and a beautiful evening it was here in Norfolk) to help us sort out our problem. Turns out the main jets were miles too big (hence the black plugs). He even lent us a set of jets out of his carbs to take it out on a test drive. Luegojunior came back with a big smile and using lots of swear words that basically meant 'my that's quick' and no misfires. Whipped the plugs out for a quick look, plugs 1 and 4 now perfect, 2 and 3 verging on lean so may go up 1 jet size just to get it even better.
Will, thanks A LOT
Why doesn't the rest of the country work like Locost, it would be a lot better

[Edited on 20/5/10 by norfolkluego]

Norfolkluegojnr - 21/5/10 at 07:43 AM
Thanks Will, we learn't a fair bit in a short space of time.

You've saved the summer!

David Jenkins - 21/5/10 at 07:53 AM
I'm glad it's fixed!

And looking back at what I posted a little while back in this thread...

"Another thought - with my car, it wouldn't go much above 4000 rpm after fitting bike carbs, because it was far too rich at WOT. I reduced the size of the main jets and it all came together nicely."

<end smug grin...>

[Edited on 21/5/10 by David Jenkins]

norfolkluego - 22/5/10 at 12:21 AM
After Will had sorted the carbs the car really does run well, just one last question. Cylinders 2 and 3 seem to run a bit leaner than cylinders 1 and 4 (no idea why), is it OK to run slightly bigger jets just on 2 and 3 to even things up or should I always run the same jets across all of them, just pick the best compromise.

RazMan - 22/5/10 at 07:58 AM
If the difference between the cylinders is noticeable you should first analyse the rest of the intake & exhaust system. Different length header pipes, air leaks, airflow turbulence and cylinder temperatures can all cause a slight tolerance in burn quality but how are you determining that there is a difference? Remember that plug colour is not a true indication of burn quality - the only true way is to use individual Lambda sensors in each header pipe, which is sometimes used in sophisticated race engines but is normally not required for road engines.

Personally I would get (or borrow) a wideband Lambda sensor and get the overall average of the cylinders and use that for jetting calculation.

[Edited on 22-5-10 by RazMan]

norfolkluego - 22/5/10 at 08:05 PM
quote:
Originally posted by RazMan
If the difference between the cylinders is noticeable you should first analyse the rest of the intake & exhaust system. Different length header pipes, air leaks, airflow turbulence and cylinder temperatures can all cause a slight tolerance in burn quality but how are you determining that there is a difference? Remember that plug colour is not a true indication of burn quality - the only true way is to use individual Lambda sensors in each header pipe, which is sometimes used in sophisticated race engines but is normally not required for road engines.

Personally I would get (or borrow) a wideband Lambda sensor and get the overall average of the cylinders and use that for jetting calculation.

[Edited on 22-5-10 by RazMan]

Of all the (possible) causes you mention I would think an air leak on the inlet side would be the most likely, that's definitely worth checking

[Edited on 22/5/10 by norfolkluego]

will121 - 22/5/10 at 09:23 PM
hi, some orignal bikes run slightly larger jets in the middle two to the outer ones but this is where standard air box runs different inlet trumpet lengths and ram air effect may alter individual cylinder fueling. be worth checking for air leaks first and then deciding on what filter arrangements you going to try as will all potentially effect final jets. from looking at initial filterless plugs going up to 152.5 or 155 may be ok (notice they on ebay �2.50 each +P&P) ideal is to get a lamba sensor bung welded in manifold to check but if willing to buy a few jets could just try and see now the filter bowls come off easy!!

norfolkluego - 22/5/10 at 11:42 PM
quote:
Originally posted by will121
but if willing to buy a few jets could just try and see now the filter bowls come off easy!!

That's the plan Will. Just try slightly larger jets until it's obvious we've gone too far then go one size back but to be honest it's running so well at the moment I might just leave it until the end of the summer and just enjoy using it until then. Thanks again for all your help on Thursday.