Not driven the car for ages, and today we had a local meet so I thought I'd risk the drizzle and go.

Bad call! Clutch cable broke about 3 miles from the meet and ended up getting Mr AA out to sort it. Had a buddy from my local club in his car with me but we couldn't sort it.

AA fixed it and I went on back home, only to have it go again a few miles down the road! Waited another 90 mins to get the AA out again and they repaired once more and followed me home the last few miles to make sure I got there.

Problem is getting a clutch cable that has the right fittings for the car and also long enough to go around the exhaust etc. I tried a firm that specialises in cables, but when I asked whether the length quoted was the outer or inner they didn't know!!!

So I'm now looking to get another sierra type cable but long enough to fit around the exhaust.

It's a sierra pedal box and type 9 5-speed box.

I did think of looking into a hydraulic conversion, but some say it's not worth the hassle so I don't know.

JB

Does it have manual or automatic adjustment?

Mine has a standard sierra one with automatic adjustment and eBay or Burton are good sources.

Looking on the Burton site, there is a really long cable for a cossie sierra with the same fittings.

Burtons website lists clutch cable length for standard cables , unless the car had a bespoke cable then it's likely to be e standard Ford part

I just had my pug 206 clutch cable snap which has kinda put me off using a cable clutch! I didn't realise there was so much force required to disengage the clutch so I would think depending on the ease of mounting a slave cylinder on the release lever I'd rather make it hydraulic.

I think the throttle would be fine on a cable but on a clutch it seems more trouble than it is worth! You probably only need a long flexible brake hose, a master and slave cylinder and means of mounting them as opposed to mounting a cable and getting the right length

Speedy cables in Swansea will make any cable you want...

As said speedy cables, do make them up i believe,
But i opted to find a car in the breakers, that had a similar setup to mine, and the bought a new one (on the car) and kept the old one in the boot, plus recorded on my data sheet, that is laminated, and again in the boot, for reference

FWIW my data sheet, compiles of all the relevent info, of spares required, like balljoints, wishbone rubbers, bulbs ets etc
all the type of stuff that if you were to breakdown, a part no, or what car the item came off, as i dare say in a panic situation, i would forget!

i also include on that sheet a good comprehensive wiring diag, plus fuses, for the same reason


Steve

sierra cosworth is good for sierra pdeal box / type 9.

I got sick of the sierra pedal box auto adjuster, so converted it to a manually adjustable type. I now use an escort cosworth cable.

I had the same issue,
clutch cable broke a few times due to ARP sport clutch.

So I changed to a hydraulic clutch on a mt75 that is.

No issues

To be fair, a cable clutch is as reliable, or more so, than a hydraulic one. No fluid to leak, seals to worry about and so on, but you do need it aligned well.

I had a cable break on my car, type 9 etc. The problem appeared to be at the pedal end, it was pulling at an angle and over-stressing the cable at that point. Simple solution was to cut/reweld the bracket, and all good.

i cheated and used a volvo 340 cable, threaded one end for adjustment, and the other I cut to length, and used a clevis fork that was attached with 3 tiny grub screws. the actual cable tends to be 3mm, and that is massively strong. No figures, but I suspect 500kg?? so it isn't the strength, but the routing.
Just my thoughts...........

Transit works well.