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R1 engine heating
mk69 - 30/11/14 at 03:05 PM

Hi all

Problems with my engine (Yam 1000 R1 from 2007)
When running on track, and when i go over 10000 trs/mn, the temperature of the water is going over 105 degrees.
When it comes over 107 degrees, i must stop or drive softly.

Do you think it is because my radiator or my ventilator are be too small ? Or something else ?

The radiator size is 43 cm by 32 cm and the ventilaor is only 20 cm of diameter.

Thanks









CosKev3 - 30/11/14 at 04:01 PM

Radiator looks plenty big enough, the fan is way too small though.
But the fan should not be needed when the car is in motion, only when the car is sat still with no airflow through the radiator.
Are you sure the temp reading is correct?
Perhaps get a laser temp reader and check your dash reading is correct
Other thing is perhaps it's been piped up incorrectly.


CosKev3 - 30/11/14 at 04:11 PM

Looks ok pipe work wise looking at your photo archive, only thing I would have done different was run both the thin bleed hoses into header tank separately.


Barkalarr - 30/11/14 at 04:13 PM

When you say water - is this antifreeze too ?
Only I had a car which I temporarily filled with water which ran hot - ran about 15 deg cooler when filled with just antifreeze and distilled water.

I've got a spare R1 rad and fan from a 2003 5PW sitting in the garage if it's any good ?


adithorp - 30/11/14 at 04:15 PM

Radiator is plenty big enough and the fan shouldn't be needed when moving (probably too small when standing).

In the pictures your top hose and air bleed pipe run downhill from the radiator. That will trap air in the rad'. Suspect that's your problem. Look at the rest of the system as well as there might be other bits that aren't right. Also might be worth putting a cowling around the rad' so cooling air can't go around it and will be forced through the radiator.


Kev99 - 30/11/14 at 05:52 PM

hi i had this on my R1 4c8 2008 engine im running a standard polo rad which is
tilted back like yours

I ducted it from the nose cone so the air has to go though the rad
not around it

also added an oil-cooler as the oil was getting to hot on track and
upping coolant temp as well

oil temp still getting a little high for me so going to duct that as well

hope this helps


Kev.............


Ps it was ok on the road only had these problems on track days when pushing it hard for a while


mk69 - 30/11/14 at 07:48 PM

Hi

@Barkalarr : yes, this is not water, sorry. This is antifreeze, it is red or orange and can from -30 degrees up to 107 degrees

@adithorp & CosKev3 : i bought it like this in Manchester about 2 years ago, so maybe it is not mounted correctly. I have to rely on the system but i will try to ask to a motorcycle shop to verify with a laser system ?

The fan is turning on while running. But i can turn on if i start the engine and let some time like this (and the car not running)

Does anyone has a photo of a cowling system ?

Thanks mates


MK9R - 1/12/14 at 03:02 PM

You will need good ducting and at least a 19 row oil cooler. I had a 919 blade with standard polo and 13 row cooler, changed to a 5vy and temps went straight up. I improved ducting but didn't get what I needed. Upped the oil cooler to 19row but still wasnt happy so went a dual core Ali one and all was good. The 8c is very very susceptible to burning through barrels 2 and 3 at the joint with the head gasket if the temperatures are high, you need to get them low to keep the engine entact. I'd be aiming of a max oil temp of 120 and water of 98.

Also ensure you have space for the air to escape, you can have all the best kit and ducting but if the air is trapped under the bonnet it will be impossible to cool it.

[Edited on 1/12/14 by MK9R]


TimC - 1/12/14 at 09:08 PM

I can't really comment from a position of strength as I haven't started mine yet but your pipe runs look quite long. I suspect that this doesn't help.