
I chopped my sump and welded it together as carefully as I could....filled it with water and lo and behold it pi**es out of pretty much
everywhere...
There must be douzens of teeny tiny ickle holes....
Can I use some kind of two part metal filler inside and outside the sump to fill the microholes?
(they are too small to track down and fill with weld
)
Thanks.
Duncan
What material is your sump?
What sort of welding have you used?
What sort of kit do you have access to?
If you've a steel pressed sump and you've MIG welded it then the best method is to get your hands on some Gas welding kit (Oxy-Acetylene)
and re-melt the welds and let cool. If done carefully it should fix the problem.
Other way is to use a brazing set and add some brazing filler along the joints to seal up the holes.
Biggest problem with either method is heat induced distortion - it may bend and buckle.
Its a pressed steel sump which I mig welded....
You recon oxy-acethalene would really cure the problem? There is plenty of weld on there so its not like there is a shortage of stuff to melt....
So some kind of chemical filler is a no no then?
Dunc
My 2p worth, but - i think any sort of chemical filler may solve the problem in the short term but will probably break down with time and start to leak again. Not really worth the hassle if it breaks again a year down the line! But then I think you allready knew that! Oli.
My welds leaking on my sumps was a big problem for until I started TIGing them.
If you decide to reweld just make sure all the water is out or it will just get worse!
I would also grind out / off the leaking weld before rewelding.
I seem to remember Loctite selling a self wicking fluid that was made to seal porus castings and such like. It will be worth investigating. Their
technical help telephone line is very good.
John
I mig welded mine and initially it leaked with parrafin.
I ground down the welds and rewelded a couple of times and was able to get it leak free.
Stu

If you have any brazing rod and access to an oxy-acetylene unit, brazing it up will work a treat. Easy as well, looks good when painted,
resists vibration better than weld, will never leak. Cheap, too! A true locost-fix.

Brazing does work a treat, but as long as its clean & non greasy so does fibreglass resin, just run it all round the inside having roughed up with some 80 grit & spirit cleaned first.