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Author: Subject: Rover turbo
Chippy

posted on 1/2/07 at 11:25 PM Reply With Quote
Rover turbo

Hi all, mate of mine has a Locost kit that he bought three years ago, and is just about to start building it. Question is he is thinking of using a Rover turbo four pot lump. Just wondered if anyone has experience of these engines, and fitting them in a Locost. Thanks, Ray





To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy

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Aboardman

posted on 1/2/07 at 11:31 PM Reply With Quote
robin hood used to offer the rover turbo as an option.
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stevec

posted on 1/2/07 at 11:32 PM Reply With Quote
Do you mean the 1.8 K16?
Or the 2.0 jobby?
Steve.

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MikeRJ

posted on 1/2/07 at 11:43 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by stevec
Do you mean the 1.8 K16?
Or the 2.0 jobby?
Steve.


I would think the 2.0l T16. The 1.8K was only turboed in the later 75's and it was only a light pressure turbo (~150bhp) so hardly worth the effort when it's not that hard to get 160bhp from a normaly aspirated K..

The main problem, as always, is mating the engine to a suitable gearbox. RH used an adapter plate mounted to a Ford MT75 I think. A standard Type 9 box is a non- starter for the amount of torque the T16 produces.

Apart from that they are very heavy engines, wouldn't surprise me if it weighed more than a Pinto.

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Simon

posted on 1/2/07 at 11:54 PM Reply With Quote
Chippy,

Hopefully Craig (1410) will be along as he had one in his Vitesse. RH did use this engine (and I've forgotten which box) but, as I don't doubt Craig will advise, it's very heavy.

Also, iircc, the earlier the better as they had Mahle forged pistons and could cope with quite high boost, unlike later ones which melted.

ATB

Simon






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hillbillyracer

posted on 2/2/07 at 12:03 AM Reply With Quote
You'll likely be going to go for aftermarket management? If not & you want info on getting the MEMS system to work I have a workshop manual for the 800 including the engine wiring diagrams. It only needs about 5 external wires to make it run.
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ettore bugatti

posted on 2/2/07 at 12:44 AM Reply With Quote
LT77 from a SD1/ Sherpa with an O-series engine?

Would love to put a M16 with twin webers in a MGB GT

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craig1410

posted on 2/2/07 at 01:16 AM Reply With Quote
Well not to disappoint Simon, here I am...

Yes the T16 is indeed very very heavy and is also very tall. You would need taller bodywork and/or taller chassis to fit it in.

As for pistons, I think the break point between Mahle and "Chocolate" pistons was in 1994. Mine was a 1993 and I had it boosted to around 230/240BHP with no problems.

The gearbox which RH used was an MT75 IIRC and you can get a bellhousing adapter to suit.

It's a very nice engine but I'd say it is too heavy and tall for a Locost. This is coming from a guy who is using a Rover V8 in his Locost...

Oh, almost forgot, this engine has an annoying habit of leaking oil all over your drive. The front left hand side of the cylinder head gasket has an oil feed which feeds the top of the engine and this leaks out through the edge of the gasket causing a mess. Annoying when you are using Mobil1 0w40 which isn't cheap! I spent £250 and a long weekend rebuilding my cylinder head, including the klinger gasket set, new bolts and a skimmed head only to have the problem recur after 6 months. Really annoying!!

HTH,
Craig.

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PeterW

posted on 2/2/07 at 08:51 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by craig1410
Oh, almost forgot, this engine has an annoying habit of leaking oil all over your drive. The front left hand side of the cylinder head gasket has an oil feed which feeds the top of the engine and this leaks out through the edge of the gasket causing a mess. Annoying when you are using Mobil1 0w40 which isn't cheap! I spent £250 and a long weekend rebuilding my cylinder head, including the klinger gasket set, new bolts and a skimmed head only to have the problem recur after 6 months. Really annoying!!

HTH,
Craig.



Craig,

Please do NOT, I repeat NOT try and block that exterior oil feed on the engine. You may not be aware, but that was installed on all Rover engines to ensure the chassis never rusted....

Its got a part number on Landrover engines....

Pete

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zxrlocost

posted on 2/2/07 at 09:21 AM Reply With Quote
I have had a few of them

not tuneable past 230bhp without ££££

Heavy

A bit unreliable

I wouldnt bother

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craig1410

posted on 2/2/07 at 09:53 AM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by zxrlocost
I have had a few of them

not tuneable past 230bhp without ££££

Heavy

A bit unreliable

I wouldnt bother


Oh I think you are being a bit unfair...

I had my Rover Vitesse from 6 years old until 11 years old and put 70000 miles on it and the only thing ever gave me problems was the oil leak from the cylinder head gasket and my petrol tank rusted through from the inside...

Also, they are easily and cheaply tuneable to 280BHP if you change the fuel pressure regulator (or just crush the existing regulator return pipe a bit as many have done successfully - there is even a procedure for this documented on the web telling you exactly how much to crush it...)

The best thing about the engine is bucket loads of torque, a bit like a Rover V8 (except heavier)

HTH,
Craig.

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britishtrident

posted on 2/2/07 at 12:10 PM Reply With Quote
The T16 is actually about the same weight as the Rover-Buick engine --- neither are exactly light.

The K16 turbo is worth considering it was rated at 160ps and has a completely flat torque curve from 1000 to 5500 rpm. Rover kept a lid on the output because it somewhat embarrased the KV6 and VVC.
It weighs in at 114kg

Had Rover stayed in business I would have expected it to have been raised to 180 bhp stock as the VVC was on borrowed time becaue of emmision regs.

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craig1410

posted on 2/2/07 at 12:14 PM Reply With Quote
quote:
Originally posted by britishtrident
The T16 is actually about the same weight as the Rover-Buick engine



Not true IMHO but don't get me started...

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coozer

posted on 2/2/07 at 03:37 PM Reply With Quote
The t16 engine is indeed a heavy lump having been designed as a dual role petrol/diesel engine.

Didn't they come with 200bhp standard, not 160 I think.





1972 V8 Jago

1980 Z750

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craig1410

posted on 2/2/07 at 05:05 PM Reply With Quote
They came in 180BHP and 197BHP versions in the Vitesse and Vitesse Sport (and 620ti) respectively IIRC. The 220 Turbo Coupe also had the 197BHP version.

Yes that rings a bell - the diesel/petrol dual purpose thing. I knew there was a reason for the engine being heavier than it should have been.

Cheers,
Craig.

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britishtrident

posted on 2/2/07 at 07:47 PM Reply With Quote
The weight of the the T series is simply down to the age of the block design --- it dates back to a design for a WW2 truck engine, from which came the 4 cylinder 1948 Austin A40 engine that later became the 1500cc BMC B series, it grew in stages to 1800cc 5 bearings in 1966, became the SOHC O series in 1978, the 16 valve M series in 1987 and in 1991 was revised slightly to become the T series.

The oil leak between the block and head has always a niggle dating back the OHV versions.

Diesel versions have been around since the early 1960s, the first OHV diesel developed for use in Nuffield tractors was dreadful. The later Prima and L series diesels were pretty good.

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Chippy

posted on 2/2/07 at 10:41 PM Reply With Quote
Thanks Guy's that should give him something to chew on, would sound to me like a non starter. But then I fitted the Ford 2.9i V6, so can't say too much. Thanks, Ray





To make a car go faster, just add lightness. Colin Chapman - OR - fit a bigger engine. Chippy

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andyps

posted on 3/2/07 at 05:33 PM Reply With Quote
Couple of points - the difference for the pistons is that the early verions with 180hp had the strong pistons, the later ones with 200hp had the softer pistons and are not as tunable. If taking it from a Rover Vitesse, the difference was accompanied by a change in wheel size (earlier ones were 16inch) and the fitment of a torsen diff to the later version (well worth having in the car, I put one in my earlier car and the lack of wheel spin was amazing).

I fixed the head leak with new gasket, skim and new bolts for just over £100 - paid for itself with the amount of oil which it leaked, although I also considered leaving it running permanently as it only leaked whilst cold. 12 months and 20k miles later it was still oil tight.

Very strong engine which takes miles well, but probably big and heavy.





Andy

An expert is someone who knows more and more about less and less

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bilbo

posted on 3/2/07 at 06:23 PM Reply With Quote
Well, this is currently the engine I'm planning on using. The reason I'm using it is that it was basically a free 200bhp! If I had to buy an engine, though, I would probably have chosen something else.

I don't think it is as tall as some people make it out to be. It's cetainly no taller than a Pinto (I have a pinto sat in the garage as well, so it's easy to compare). I think what makes it look taller is the plenum chamber which sits up high. I'm planning on a cut and shut job for this to lower it, and also move the Throttle Body to the front to help with the plumbing for the intercooler.

The weight is a problem. The car will not be as nimble as some 7s, but with the right gearing it should out drag most. I can't see it being any heavier than the iron block ford V6s of which people have built great cars using.

I'm still working on exactly how to mate it with a RWD gearbox. RH used an MT75 with an adapter plate. I, on the other hand, have been designing some plates to mate a type 9 to the original FWD bellhousing. Time will tell, though, if this is all going to work (and the type 9 can take the power ) - look out for a post from me on clutches shortly.

Hillbillyracer - I may be interested in the MEMS info if you have it? I have some wiring info, but the more the better - Thanks.





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Volvorsport

posted on 3/2/07 at 11:31 PM Reply With Quote
type 9 box wont be any good for that purpose , youll need an mt75 , and yes those engines leak oil .





www.dbsmotorsport.co.uk
getting dirty under a bus

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