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Author: Subject: camber and castor
d8mok

posted on 3/2/07 at 09:55 AM Reply With Quote
camber and castor

i've just finished putting my front end together after its overhaul.

I've had all the arms powder coated, new suspension and new wilwood brakes.

I'm wondering how i go about setting up my camber and castor and suspension? who can do it local or near to chesterfield? Or any body on here fancy havin a look for me? I'll get u a pint in.
The car is a stuart taylor locoblade.

Many thanks

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JoelP

posted on 3/2/07 at 11:09 AM Reply With Quote
you can do it rough with a block of wood and a spirit level, but if you want it doing really well, it might be best to take it somewhere and get it corner weighted at the same time. MNR can do this i believe, but im sure there are others
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BenB

posted on 3/2/07 at 11:41 AM Reply With Quote
IIRC castor is fixed on the locoblade (or it was when I built one!!)

Camber and toe-in need a few bits of kit. Nothing too difficult- the main stumbling block for most is the need for a dead flat and horizontal surface to do the work on....

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d8mok

posted on 3/2/07 at 01:05 PM Reply With Quote
block of wood and sprit level? how do i do this??

And what does IIRC mean?

[Edited on 3/2/07 by d8mok]

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907

posted on 3/2/07 at 03:22 PM Reply With Quote
Or large square (roofing square)

Saves the need for a level surface. A flat surface will do.

At least it gets both sides the same, assuming that's what you want.

Hold it one edge on the ground against the wheel, touching the bottom, and measure the gap at the top.

Paul G


IIRC = If I recall






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JoelP

posted on 3/2/07 at 04:07 PM Reply With Quote
flat surface, block of wood cut to sit on alloy rim (not tyre as this will deform at the bottom), use spirit level to check vertical angle. This is the camber sorted. For toe in, i clamp a long length of tubing horizontally to each wheel, extending a few feet (or more) in both directions, and measure the seperation front and back to work out if they are parallel. Obviously make sure the wheel and rack are centred correctly before adjusting owt.

Castor is a little harder, im sure you will work something out Myself, id do something with the hubs off and a short length of square tubing bolted in instead, and make sure its correct before starting on the rest.

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